Looking for pillar bedding input

[upSLIDEdown]

So I've pillar bedded my other two rifles, but they were both built from an Axis. On an Axis, the rear pillar can be a full size pillar with no interference with the sear. On the 111 I'm getting ready to bed, obviously that's not the case.

What are your thoughts on notching the backside of the rear pillar to clear the sear, or notching the sear so a full size rear pillar can be used?

This link will show pictures of what I'm referring to in case I'm not clear enough.

http://www.varminthuntinginternational.com/Stock%20Bedding.html

Any input is greatly appreciated.

[upSLIDEdown]

Also, when pillar bedding a gun with a blind mag, there's that little metal tab that goes over the rear pillar that holds the mag box in the stock. I'm going to a Boyds laminate. Do people normally keep that little funky clip in there? I feel like things would be more solid without it.

When I bedded the Axis, I do the bedding and pillars all at once. Install the pillars on the bottom of the action, and drop it over into the bedding compound, doing it all in one shot. That's the way I'd planned to do this one, but that little clip has me trying to figure out what to do about it.

Thought about just getting rid of the clip, and putting a dab of epoxy on each corner of the mag box and clamping it into the stock, that way I wouldn't need the clip.

Thoughts/experience?

[short round]

I do not notch the pillar, but grind the sear to half moon shape to retain strength. Just grind enough to clear pillar. The clip can be shortened to fit with pillar.

[upSLIDEdown]

Yeah, that was the thought I just had, actually. Block out the tiny channel the clip would sit in with clay, and then grind the little forks off of the clip to is doesn't interfere with the pillar. Glad my thinking was correct there.

As for the notched pillar vs notched sear, I feel like I read somewhere that that will weaken the sear too much, but I really don't see how. Seems like a much more solid way to do it in my opinion. Just want to make sure taking metal away there won't weaken anything too much.

Thanks for the input!

[olddav]

I've seen where you can grind the sear to fit around the pillar, and in the article they also warned the reader not to go too far with the half moon cut out. Cutting the sear too much would allow the sear to fall too far when released by the trigger. I don't know how much is too much but ..... Not sure what I'm trying to say here other than like a trigger job, go slow and check your progress often when cutting a sear. All that being said I must confess I have never cut the sear when installing pillars, I use larger dia. pillars (larger foot print for the action to rest on).

[upSLIDEdown]

I'd definitely use the same practices as a trigger job. Slow and steady, checking often. I don't feel the need to use large pillars, really. I'll be doing a full bed job at the same time, so the action will have 100% support under it. The only thing the pillars do is keep the stock from compressing at all and make sure it's the same every time it's torqued down. The ones I used on the Axis' I've done were fairly small and work great so far. Thinking I'm leaning towards notching the sear at this point unless someone has good input why I shouldn't.

[olddav]

Take some pics, could be a good opertuininty for me to learn something.

[upSLIDEdown]

Will do. I took a few of the last one, but they were with the phone. I plan on taking good pics this time.

[sharpshooter]

Notching the sear will make it crack. It's not a matter of "if', it's a matter of "when". There is not a problem with the notched pillar, but it is harder to set it on the receiver with the notch pre-cut and get it to draw up straight. It is better to install it as a full pillar and then cut the clearance after it is set.

[upSLIDEdown]

Good info, from a good source. :) Thanks. So maybe the sear notching isn't the best idea. Hrmmm... Now I have a conundrum. Lol

[BarrelBurner]

Upslide, I have been deleting the clip from the mag box and using a small screw in the rear of the mag. I have never been too fond of the clip in the mix.
You will need to mark the mag for depth if you go this route as there is some room vertical movement.

As for pillars I tried notching the rear pillar before installing, got lucky is all I will say. Now I just use a Dremel to take a bit off the back of it as Fred mentioned and it has worked out very well, much easier and more consistent.

[upSLIDEdown]

Right on. Got any pics of the small screw placement? Still trying to figure out what I'm gonna do, but it's looking more and more like I should probably notch the pillar after bedding and leave the sear alone.

[BarrelBurner]

It would be tough to get a pic of it. There will be a hole in the back of the mag box below the follower. If you pull the mag box it will make sense when you see it. I use the pointed handle end of a small file to make a little pilot hole for the screw. You wont get a drill in there. I used a long extension on a ratchet with a small phillips bit to put the screw in. This has been the easiet way I have come across, most screw drivers are going to be tough to use due to the angle yoy are working at in the mag well.