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View Full Version : trigger job on a 110 FP 300 win mag



rtchambers
12-04-2014, 10:29 AM
I have a 1999 110 FP 300 wm. I heard it was easy to do a trigger job on these older triggers or am I mistaken. I'm looking for info on how to accomplish this. I'd like to have a 2.5-3# pull.

LHitchcox
12-05-2014, 10:13 AM
If it has a set screw under the sear notch in the trigger, it is easy to get a light clean pull. First, replace the external round wire with a lighter wire. I used a $.99 buzz bait (not spinner bait) wire from WalMart. Then if you have the sear screw, reduce the sear engagement slightly and test the trigger for weight and safety. Repeat as necessary keeping sure that the weight is not light enough to cause an accidental discharge.

rtchambers
12-05-2014, 10:18 AM
Thank you, this is what I was looking for.

Robinhood
12-07-2014, 04:15 PM
RT, Heed LHitchcox advice, it is easy to find yourself having accidental discharges due to poor trigger/sear engagement. You must make sure that you have preload between the two components. Otherwise the sear will not catch. A dremel with a polishing wheel and some rouge can be your friend if used judiciously.

Blitzfike
12-07-2014, 06:56 PM
RT, Heed LHitchcox advice, it is easy to find yourself having accidental discharges due to poor trigger/sear engagement. You must make sure that you have preload between the two components. Otherwise the sear will not catch. A dremel with a polishing wheel and some rouge can be your friend if used judiciously.

The key here is the term judiciously.. Really easy even with a polishing wheel to round the wrong cut. I have a sign that says "Friends don't let friends use Dremel's on trigger groups..." I suspect that Robinhood's ability far exceeds the average newby to working on triggers...

Robinhood
12-07-2014, 10:41 PM
Yeah maybe that one isn't for the everyday Joe. I have honed and polished 40 or 50 and have got close to getting things working right. I never use a lighter spring, and I machine .141" pivot pins for the trigger with 4-40 threads to capture the trigger hanger. That way you can adjust the trigger end play so there is no slop. I think that mod alone makes it feel more like a real rifle trigger.

rtchambers
12-07-2014, 11:37 PM
Okay, I won't change the spring. I will make a pivot pin to take up the slop. I will carefully hone and polish the trigger and sear.

foxx
12-07-2014, 11:40 PM
Well... you can try replacing the spring. I'll send you one for free if you want. If it isn't what you want, no big deal to swap out again.

rtchambers
12-08-2014, 04:15 PM
Thanks Foxx that's very generous. I may take you up on your offer but I'm going to try and polish it up first. This project is something to learn on.

foxx
12-08-2014, 04:36 PM
Sure. It's not all that generous, though. For $8, I think, I bought 6 feet of the piano wire a while back... makes for a lot of trigger springs, and not much else! :)

jonbearman
12-10-2014, 12:27 AM
If you are not familiar working on triggers I suggest you buy a rifle basix and have a smith adjust it. If you hone too much you could change angles and go through the hardness of the part. There is a tutorial on the homepage how to safely adjust it. I took the 3 screw down to 2 3/4#'s easily and couldn't make it malfunction but if you don't know how don't do it and then have an untimely accident if you get what I mean. Not trying to be mean but it is very dangerous if you don't understand the mechanics of the trigger.

upSLIDEdown
12-10-2014, 01:51 AM
Dremels can ruin sear engagement surfaces fast if you're not careful. You'd probably be better served with a flat piece of bar stock and some 1500 grit sandpape. Not quite as easy to mess up with that setup.