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Idaho
12-01-2014, 11:59 PM
Yes on the crown. A couple of guys have looked at it.

Dig, thanks for the info on how to torque the action screws. I will give it a try.

KRP, I appreciate your willingness to help. If I don't get this sorted out I may have to pay you a visit.

Three44s
12-03-2014, 08:14 PM
You mentioned changing an action screw.

Are you sure it did not bottom out before the action was drawn up snug?

I had a .25-06 bull barrel build (long action) and I bought some screws at the hardware store. The build never did group well.

I recently took that barrel off and found out all the that time one of the screws was a little too long.

Best of luck with your Savage ........ there is logical explanation for everything ..... the trick is to find it!

Three 44s

Idaho
12-03-2014, 09:49 PM
You mentioned changing an action screw.

Are you sure it did not bottom out before the action was drawn up snug?

I had a .25-06 bull barrel build (long action) and I bought some screws at the hardware store. The build never did group well.

I recently took that barrel off and found out all the that time one of the screws was a little too long.

Best of luck with your Savage ........ there is logical explanation for everything ..... the trick is to find it!

Three 44s

I was very careful with the length of the new screw. I cut it off to the exact length of the original and then polished the leading edges down on a small belt sander so that it would screw into the receiver with no problem. Thanks

GaCop
12-07-2014, 04:23 PM
You made mention of the rifle not riding the bags straight back. That twisting is part of your issue. Is the front bag lose enough to make a trough in the center for the forearm to ride in. The front rest should be back towards the front action screw too.

Idaho
12-10-2014, 11:51 PM
I have accumulated a set of Lee rifle dies, a box of 69gr Barnes Match Burner bullets, two pounds of H335 powder, a brass polisher and a new Dillon 550B reloader. I'm going to pick up some CCI primers and load up some ammo. I will figure out how far the lands are from the neck and seat the bullets just short of that to minimize the jump from case neck to lands. No crimp. I plan to start with minimum load and go in 1/2 grain steps to max to see what happens.

foxx
12-11-2014, 12:11 AM
Good. My only suggestion would be to work up loads with a little less increments in powder, maybe 1/4 or 1/3 just because .223 uses relatively less powder than, say, 30-06. As a result, jumping by 1/2 grain might cause you to miss a "sweet spot" or center of a node. I could be wrong, God knows I have been before. :)

Digduggy
12-11-2014, 01:03 AM
I did .2 grain jumps for my 223... worked out really well

Idaho
12-11-2014, 11:37 PM
Okay. Good advice. Smaller jumps it is. Thanks

Robinhood
12-12-2014, 12:01 AM
This members of this forum are great. Everyone pitching in to help.

scooterf79
12-12-2014, 01:23 AM
Definitely! They've given me alot of help, input, opinions, tips...etc...its awesome here. Try not to throw too many variables in at one time. Try and get everything right on the gun side first. Then with your reloading try not to change anything but powder charge at first. Then, after finding some consistency, there can be tweaks done with powders, primers, seating depths and so on. Its very rare(in my opinion) for one of these rifles to just plain not shoot well. Everybody here will help out.
Scooter

Idaho
12-13-2014, 01:12 AM
Pocatello

Idaho
12-13-2014, 01:19 AM
Definitely! They've given me alot of help, input, opinions, tips...etc...its awesome here. Try not to throw too many variables in at one time. Try and get everything right on the gun side first. Then with your reloading try not to change anything but powder charge at first. Then, after finding some consistency, there can be tweaks done with powders, primers, seating depths and so on. Its very rare(in my opinion) for one of these rifles to just plain not shoot well. Everybody here will help out.
Scooter.
Thanks Scooter, that's my plan. I'm going to establish a seating depth and stay with it. Full length resize on first reload only then neck size after that. No crimp. I will start with a mid range charge and vary above and below that by 0.2 gr at a time.
I plan to keep a lot of notes.

GaCop
12-19-2014, 07:52 AM
I sure wish you lived down the street I would just tell you to bring it over and we would work it over until it shot right, us old guys need to stick together. Amen to that!

Idaho
12-31-2014, 08:00 PM
I'm making progress. 40Gr V-max gave a 0.74 inch group but I need/want a heavier bullet for the longer ranges that I encounter here in Idaho. I've reloaded Barnes 69gr BTHP bullets over 23.6 gr of H335 and got a 0.92 inch group. I want them to touch so I have a long way to go but at least I'm headed in the right direction.

Still playing with loads. I have several different groups of ammo loaded at 23.8 and 24 gr and plan to go the other way and load down to 22.8 and 22.6 to see if there is any improvement that direction. I also am going to buy a box of bullets from another manufacturer to see if I get any better results there.

Having fun now. Thanks for the help.

earl39
12-31-2014, 09:27 PM
Try 77gr SMK with a stout load of RL-15. Works good in my 9 twist.