Curious about my 99

[ermad]

I bought my 99 about 20 years ago from an old timer who was retiring from hunting. 308win, rotary block, trigger guard safety, the shell counter looks to be brass. The serial # is 908926. I love the gun and have had many great hunts with it. I'm interested in it's history. This seems like the best site to get help. You all seem to love your 99's.

[Old No7]

I got this info from Mad Dog here, and I just got one of the letters done for my old Savage, which was pretty cool to do and not that much $$ either (not like lettering an old Colt!).


Here's the ordering info if you would like to get your old Savage firearm lettered by the historian, it's well worth it, you will usually get a letter stating what your gun left the factory as, when it was accepted at the factory and where it went to when it left the factory, as well as some standard descriptions of your firearm.

Savage 1895, 1899 and 99 guys should know that any lever actions over the serial number of 372XXX will not get as much info as the paperwork on those guns has been destroyed but you will still gets details of the order number.

Mr Callahan can also letter Savage pistols, model 40, 45, 1920, 20/26, shotguns, pretty much anything with a serial number made before WWII.

John T. Callahan,
Savage Arms Historian
PO Box 82
Southampton, MA, 01073
New address 2012

New prices as of 12/1/2006:
- Savage 1895's, 1899's and 99's are $30.00
- Other Savages are $25.00.
- Stevens are $20.00.
- A.H. Fox Sterlingworths-$30.00.
- Graded doubles are $40.00.

Send serial number and details of the item, allow 5-6 weeks for delivery.
Make payable to John T. Callahan

The price for a 99 is still $30.00 today.

Old No7

[Fireball]

You're going to need some more information to get an accurate idea of what you have there. 22" barrel 99F in 308 is the lightweight rifle, pretty common. Wonderful version to hunt with, pre-drilled for scope mounts, hollowed out buttstock and featherweight barrel with a rear sight boss for lighter weight. Or could be an R with a heavy and wide forearm or an EG with the schnable forearm, both not common.

[ermad]

Thanks a lot for your info, my rifle has the schnable forearm and a steel buttplate. I'm also curious about the brass shell counter; is that common on all 99's. I'm trying to figure out how to post some pics that would help me on my quest for more 99 knowledge. Thanks again for your help.
Eric

[J.Baker]

The shell counter was on all 99's that don't have a detachable magazine box. I'm going to say it's a pre-mil 99F from the late 1950's or early 1960's based on the serial # and limited description. There should be a letter stamped on the front side of the lever boss, if you can tell me what letter it is I can tell you exactly what year it was made.

[sayak]

Brass shell counter was on all 99's that don't have a detachable magazine box...
Two of my three 99s have an aluminum or pot metal round counter. The other one is brass.

[J.Baker]

Two of my three 99s have an aluminum or pot metal round counter. The other one is brass.

I'm guessing they're post-mil then. Never seen a pre-mil 99 with anything but a brass counter.

[sayak]

I'm guessing they're post-mil then. Never seen a pre-mil 99 with anything but a brass counter.
True that. Corners were cut in the 60s on up, it seems.

[ermad]

Brass shell counter was on all 99's that don't have a detachable magazine box. I'm going to say it's a pre-mil 99F from the late 1950's or early 1960's based on the serial # and limited description. There should be a letter stamped on the front side of the lever boss, if you can tell me what letter it is I can tell you exactly what year it was made.

My rifle has a steel shotgun buttplate, raised rail dovetail front site(I think, only the ramp remains) pistol grip stock, checkered stock and forearm, schnoble forearm, the letter on the lever boss is 17H. Hope this helps. Thanks







If you can read this thank your teacher; if you can read this in English thank your military

[J.Baker]

The 17H tells me it was made in 1956.

[Fireball]

No offense intended to any of the posters here, but you're not getting good info on your rifle. It's a 99EG if the forearm is correct and numbered to the rifle. You can check by removing the forearm screw and forearm, and looking on the end of the forearm nearest the receiver. It should be stamped with the same serial number as the rifle. The buttstock will have a number under the metal buttplate. If they match, congratulations, you have an uncommon and somewhat hard to find 99EG in 308. 1956 is correct for the year.
There were rotors made of materials other than brass pre-mil, or pre one million serial number. For example, around 1954 there was a run of case colored rotors.
After serial #900,000, which is about 1955 IIRC, the receiver was modified to accommodate the 243/308/358 cartridges. After 1960, or after serial # 1 million, "post-mil" to 99 guys, cost cutting measures began to erode the quality of parts and workmanship in the 99's. However, the addition of the tang safety in 1960, on all models except the economy "E", redesigned and moved from the earlier position by the lever, made the 99 a little more user friendly for leftys, and was more familiar to shotgunners accustomed to tang safeties. I find the tang safety to be a mixed bag. It's a little harder to get at with a scope mounted, but a little more intuitive in it's location than the lever safety.
I'm not trying to come across as an expert, I am just learning myself, and am passing along what I am learning so that you can know a little more about your firearm. You should not sell your 308 EG cheap, it's a desirable model. Should you decide to part company, I recommend a penny start Gunbroker auction with no reserve and no Buy Now price. You will attract LOTS of attention very quickly, and your rifle will sell for more than you think. At any rate, your rifle should be an outstanding shooter.

[Red House]

No offense intended to any of the posters here, but you're not getting good info on your rifle. It's a 99EG if the forearm is correct and numbered to the rifle. You can check by removing the forearm screw and forearm, and looking on the end of the forearm nearest the receiver. It should be stamped with the same serial number as the rifle. The buttstock will have a number under the metal buttplate. If they match, congratulations, you have an uncommon and somewhat hard to find 99EG in 308. 1956 is correct for the year.
There were rotors made of materials other than brass pre-mil, or pre one million serial number. For example, around 1954 there was a run of case colored rotors.
After serial #900,000, which is about 1955 IIRC, the receiver was modified to accommodate the 243/308/358 cartridges. After 1960, or after serial # 1 million, "post-mil" to 99 guys, cost cutting measures began to erode the quality of parts and workmanship in the 99's. However, the addition of the tang safety in 1960, on all models except the economy "E", redesigned and moved from the earlier position by the lever, made the 99 a little more user friendly for leftys, and was more familiar to shotgunners accustomed to tang safeties. I find the tang safety to be a mixed bag. It's a little harder to get at with a scope mounted, but a little more intuitive in it's location than the lever safety.
I'm not trying to come across as an expert, I am just learning myself, and am passing along what I am learning so that you can know a little more about your firearm. You should not sell your 308 EG cheap, it's a desirable model. Should you decide to part company, I recommend a penny start Gunbroker auction with no reserve and no Buy Now price. You will attract LOTS of attention very quickly, and your rifle will sell for more than you think. At any rate, your rifle should be an outstanding shooter.
Correct. My '54 has a case colored rotor. Good info, Fireball.

[ermad]

Thanks for the info. The numbers are as follows-Forearm 88BL, Buttstock-9MBL, Buttplate-8MBL, Ser# 908928. Any ideas? Your info has got me kinda stoked. By the way NO WAY am I selling this rifle. I love everything about it and your right it shoots great. What kind of loads do you recommend for best performance.
Thanks again