Tired of burning through scopes: need suggestion for 308 scope under $300-350

[wal0001]

Hi Dan..

I have a boyds stock and was having issues similar to yours. My rifle had the factory stock bedded and was shooting sub moa's 1/2 at 100 yards. But I did not like the factory stock so went with boyds. Groups were all over the place, so I had it bedded. A little better bout barely 1.5 inch groups. A gentleman here suggested that I check the clearance of the recoil lug. Sure enough it was touching the bottom of the stock, so I took my dremel and removed some of the wood where the recoil lug would not bottom out. Rifle shot groups closer than ever. I am not sure how this helps, but on my boyds stock, it did.. Good luck.

[Slickrock]

Hi Dan..

I have a boyds stock and was having issues similar to yours. My rifle had the factory stock bedded and was shooting sub moa's 1/2 at 100 yards. But I did not like the factory stock so went with boyds. Groups were all over the place, so I had it bedded. A little better bout barely 1.5 inch groups. A gentleman here suggested that I check the clearance of the recoil lug. Sure enough it was touching the bottom of the stock, so I took my dremel and removed some of the wood where the recoil lug would not bottom out. Rifle shot groups closer than ever. I am not sure how this helps, but on my boyds stock, it did.. Good luck.

My recoil lug is stuck in the stock. The lug is an individual piece that came with the boyds stock. It was already in place when I got it. Did you use an adhesive to glue the lug to the rifle and then clearances it so it didn't touch the bottom of the stock? Since it is a separate piece, it would need something to keep it from sliding to the bottom of the stock? http://i57.tinypic.com/im2hhx.jpg

[shooterfpga]

Did you mean Clearance the recoil lug or clearance the tang? Seems to me if you clearance the recoil lug then it wint contact the action at all.

[GaCop]

It looks like that stock could stand to be pillar bedded.

[Slickrock]

It looks like that stock could stand to be pillar bedded.

Going to do that after I see how it shoots this weekend with the stock actually tight against the rifle. Probably just order a complete kit off if amazon. Live in a small town without resources to buy local and it's cheaper to lay shipping over driving and time to go to a larger city for supplies.

[wal0001]

I apologize for an confusion Dan, I own 5 savages but not an axis. My rifles all have the recoil lug with a ring that slips over the barrel between the nut and the action. I am not familiar with the savage models that use the recoil lug in your picture. I bow out, but keep asking questions as that is how I got my rifle shooting low groups. There are a lot of helpful people on this site and I am hoping one of them can get you where you want to be..

God bless

[DzNutz]

One observation I have made in this thread is that we do not know two things about your efforts (unless I am missing it in reading). What ammo are you using (hand-loads, factory, match, cheap, etc...) and how long are you waiting in between shots for proper barrel cool, etc...?

I realize that the base screws issue could very well have been the culprit, but I am curious as to why you have the front ring base screw at 30lbs and the rear ring base screw at 15lbs? For the ring base screws I torque mine to 30-35lbs both front and back. Also check to see if the ring screws themselves, not the base screws, are not loose or too tight. Most recommend something around 20 lbs of torque for those, but no more in most cases. Another issue may be over tightening one side and causing a warp in the scope tube. Hope to H@ll it is not that!!! Hope you figure it out, good luck!

***EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION*** - My comment about Base screws may be a misinterpretation of your comment about “action screws”. If you are referring to the screws that secure the scope rings to your base, this is my concern. If you are referring to the screws (which I think you are after reading further, sorry) that secure your stock to your action, then please ignore! I would still however check all the torque settings on all screws on the scope and base.

[jonbearman]

Can you list the exact models of busnell,Nikon etc that you had problems with as I suspect they were the cheaper stuff in clamshell packaging. I have at least 6 or 7 bushnell 4200's with no problem and you can pick them up used at your budget. Stay away from any Chinese scope's as they are hit or miss. Try looking into a vortex and spend alittle more to get the viper series' as the crossfire's are only fair.

[Slickrock]

One observation I have made in this thread is that we do not know two things about your efforts (unless I am missing it in reading). What ammo are you using (hand-loads, factory, match, cheap, etc...) and how long are you waiting in between shots for proper barrel cool, etc...?

I realize that the base screws issue could very well have been the culprit, but I am curious as to why you have the front ring base screw at 30lbs and the rear ring base screw at 15lbs? For the ring base screws I torque mine to 30-35lbs both front and back. Also check to see if the ring screws themselves, not the base screws, are not loose or too tight. Most recommend something around 20 lbs of torque for those, but no more in most cases. Another issue may be over tightening one side and causing a warp in the scope tube. Hope to H@ll it is not that!!! Hope you figure it out, good luck!

***EDIT FOR CLARIFICATION*** - My comment about Base screws may be a misinterpretation of your comment about “action screws”. If you are referring to the screws that secure the scope rings to your base, this is my concern. If you are referring to the screws (which I think you are after reading further, sorry) that secure your stock to your action, then please ignore! I would still however check all the torque settings on all screws on the scope and base.

I set the base screws off of an article from boyds I found for the axis stock. But I soon found this to be too tight and it bound my bolt a bit so I backed both off both just enough to allow the bolt to freely slide. They are as tight as I'm comfortable going and not causing warping issues.

I was letting the blue lock tight set up but unfortunately had to leave the range without test firing due to my buddy getting a call and having to go home. Also had a gas block issue with my AR so it was one of those days. Planning on going out tomorrow and will post results with pictures. I'm using Fusion 150 grain ammo and grabbed a box of Winchester 7.62, 140 grain to see if that round works better. Need to also order some match grade. Plan on researching here to see what people are having the best results with before ordering. I'm shooting in groups of 3 and letting the barrel cool for at least ten minutes between groupings.

I'm also planning on bedding the stock in a few weeks.

As for the the scopes, one was a mid price Bushnell which obviously couldn't handle the recoil and a BSA Platinum Pt624x44TS. Vortex is an option but like the Muller scopes too. Borrowing an older Leupold 9x at the moment.

[DzNutz]

...I'm using Fusion 150 grain ammo and grabbed a box of Winchester 7.62, 140 grain to see if that round works better. Need to also order some match grade. Plan on researching here to see what people are having the best results with before ordering. I'm shooting in groups of 3 and letting the barrel cool for at least ten minutes between groupings...
This, good Sir, is your problem!!! I am sorry, but that is crap ammo and the Winchester is high priced Milsurp IMHO! Try "Remington 168gr Premiere Match 168gr SMKBTHP" or "Federal Gold Medal Match 168gr SMKBTHP". The ten minutes of cooling in between groups is good, but also give some time in between shots to cool too. The thinner your barrel, the more cooling time. Good luck

[scope eye]

I have a couple of these, I can't believe how clear they are,

http://www.thesportsmonkey.com/products/Swift-Premier-Long-Range-Rifle-Scope-6%252d24x50mm.html

Dean

[fgw_in_fla]

I was looking at those a while back and ended up going with another Vortex.

Must be a pretty good scope if it survives the way you reload.

Or, is it on your .22LR?

[scope eye]

It's a 22 lr Ackley Improved,LOL

Dean

[pitsnipe]

"I set the base screws off of an article from boyds I found for the axis stock. But I soon found this to be too tight and it bound my bolt a bit so I backed both off both just enough to allow the bolt to freely slide"

You have one or more scope base screws that are too long. Likely the second one from the front of the action (as the first one up front "bottoms" out on the barrel threads if too long) That screw can and will "bind" your bolt. But the answer isn't to back it off. The recommended inch pounds torque setting is based on the size of the screw. Follow that to the letter. Sounds like you will have to remove it again, trim off a thread or two in length. Reinstall to the recommended torque setting, and try the bolt again. And as mentioned, the ammo can and most often will determine the group size. But if this is a short range hunting gun (i.e. 300 yards and under) a 1" to 1.5" group at 100 yards is more than good enough for a well placed into the vitals shot.



Snipe

[Ibex]

It's a 22 lr Ackley Improved,LOL

Dean

Deano, do you have the reamer for that .22LR AI??? How can I not want one? :)

[kenl]

Midway has a clearance sale on the Sightron SIH-TAC 4-12x 40mm AO Mil-Dot right now. They are showing it at a little over $140
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/257529/sightron-sih-tac-rifle-scope-4-12x-40mm-adjustable-objective-mil-dot-reticle-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[Berger.Fan222]

Never had a problem holding zero with a Leupold.

[EFBell]

Never had a problem holding zero with a Leupold.

Me either... ;)

[scrooster]

I will reiterate the 4x14-44 ffp from Primary Arms. Mine has been fantastic, including a 3 day sniper course.

Or for a fixed scope, no brained is the SSWFA 10x


I'm going to give that a try.

[varmint72]

Swfa or get a used Leopold.I had two vortex break and had to send them back the warranty is good but its to much of a pain to be sending them back and wasting ammo.