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joeb33050
07-20-2014, 06:33 AM
The "cocking piece pin" rides in a hole in the bolt body. This hole has two positions, the back position where the cp pin is in the "cocked" condition, and the front position where the cp pin is in the "uncocked" position.

The bolt body, the hole in it, the forward part of the hole where the cp pin rests in the uncocked position; is there any reason that that part of the hole cannot/should not be extended forward with my dremel tool, maybe .150"?

Thanks;
joe b.

BillPa
07-20-2014, 03:04 PM
The bolt body, the hole in it, the forward part of the hole where the cp pin rests in the uncocked position; is there any reason that that part of the hole cannot/should not be extended forward with my dremel tool, maybe .150"?

Thanks;
joe b.

OK, I'll bite, What's your reason wanting to move it forward??

Bill

joeb33050
07-21-2014, 07:47 AM
OK, I'll bite, What's your reason wanting to move it forward??

Bill

I want to be able to assemble the bolt with the cp pin in the COCKED position and then screw in the bolt assy screw.
Adjusting/turning the rear nut on the fp assy lowers the end of the fp assy and allows the BAS screw to be screwed in with the cp pin in cocked.
But, in UNCOCKED position, the cp pin and not the bevel at front of fp assy stops forward travel and shortens fp protrusion, and cp pin won't turn.
Grinding the bolt body uncocked area forward allows cp pin to go forward, remain loose and fp stops on front bevel on nut and fp protrusion is ok.
I hate to wrestle the cp pin into cocked position with BAS just started. AND, my 12fp BAS screws in with cp pin in cocked!!! It can be done!!

DanSavage
07-21-2014, 05:25 PM
Personally I wouldn't mess with it, I leave the cocking pin in the cocked position and use a allen wrench with a t handle and push straight down BAS screw with the bolt straight up and down on the bench, doesn't take too much force to get her started.

jonbearman
07-21-2014, 07:31 PM
If you do that the cocking pressure will be way worse as the ramp wasn't designed for such a high lift.

joeb33050
07-23-2014, 03:54 PM
If you do that the cocking pressure will be way worse as the ramp wasn't designed for such a high lift.
I don't think so, we're talking about ~.050"-.100". Anyhow, what's the answer to the question? Anyone?

BillPa
07-23-2014, 07:55 PM
I don't think so, we're talking about ~.050"-.100". Anyhow, what's the answer to the question? Anyone?

.050"-.100" wouldn't do diddly. The firing pin spring is compressed (preloaded ) in the firing pin assembly more than that.

If you want to test your theory, put the cocking piece in the fired position, turn the BAS in all but it's last 4.5 turns which will equal .160" less preload then see how much easier to move to the pin into the retention.

Bill

DanSavage
07-23-2014, 08:23 PM
In theory the cocking pin should never be able to touch the bolt body at it's deepest point because that would limit the firing pin protrusion (not it's job). Like Bill said the pin assembly is under tension. Joeb I understand what you want though, it could be possibly achieved by shortening the cocking sleeve at the rear.

Dan

But I must warn "if it ain't broken, don't fix it". LOL