Question about seating bullets/OAL.

[borg]

Here is what I did: I seated a 168 gr SMK waaaaay out in an empty .308 Win case and chambered the round. I could feel the bullet being pushed into the rifling. When I pulled it out there were rifling marks on the bullet. The OAL was 2.861(5)". I started reloading rounds with a 2.840(0)" OAL. They cycle flawlessly. They do not touch the rifling. I figured I could find the best load and then start moving the bullet out by 0.005" increments to find the sweet spot. Does that sound about right? Or should I just load them to touch the rifling right off the bat?

[Quickshot]

Lacking an OAL tool you're on the right track. There are a whole lot of other variables you may be conserned about and your sweet spot may not be touching the rifling. I shoot all mine single shot with a follower in the magazine so cycling doesn't enter into it. You might keep that in mind if you run across a good load that is accurate but doesn't cycle well. Food for thought. Quick

[borg]

Thanks!

[Tightgroups]

Quick shot is right on with his post, however having a Hornady bullet comparator set would be more accurate, quicker and easier. Also dont be afraid to load your 308 with a jump, I have a (not a Savage or Remchester) 308 that when loaded at factory specks of 2.800 (a jump of .100+) shoots in the .250 moa, when I'm having a good day. And its not any better when I jamb the bullets .010, but if I do they wont fit in the detachable magazine.
You just need to try various OAL to find the one your rifle likes the best, but with out that tool, its hard to accurately repeat the loads OAL, as a bullets length can vary, some as much as .010. And thats the thing about the comparator, it measures the OAL off the bullets ogive, not its meplet.
The case comparator is another good tool, you would use allot, but I'm assuming your reloading fire formed brass, and neck sizing, if not you have no need for the case comparator.
Mike.

[Dennis]

I have a SAVAGE 308 that when loaded at factory specks of 2.800 (a jump of .100+) shoots in the .250 moa

Matter of fact anything loaded with a 175 SMK @ 2.805 will drill em!

[borg]

Quick shot is right on with his post, however having a Hornady bullet comparator set would be more accurate, quicker and easier. Also dont be afraid to load your 308 with a jump, I have a (not a Savage or Remchester) 308 that when loaded at factory specks of 2.800 (a jump of .100+) shoots in the .250 moa, when I'm having a good day. And its not any better when I jamb the bullets .010, but if I do they wont fit in the detachable magazine.
You just need to try various OAL to find the one your rifle likes the best, but with out that tool, its hard to accurately repeat the loads OAL, as a bullets length can vary, some as much as .010. And thats the thing about the comparator, it measures the OAL off the bullets ogive, not its meplet.
The case comparator is another good tool, you would use allot, but I'm assuming your reloading fire formed brass, and neck sizing, if not you have no need for the case comparator.
Mike.

I was dimly aware of this, but have never really cared enough before to bother trying to understand. Now I get what you are saying. Measuring to the ogive would give much more consistent results, especially since the tips of the SMKs seem to all be cut at an angle.

[RKG]

Quick shot is right on with his post, however having a Hornady bullet comparator set would be more accurate, quicker and easier. Also dont be afraid to load your 308 with a jump, I have a (not a Savage or Remchester) 308 that when loaded at factory specks of 2.800 (a jump of .100+) shoots in the .250 moa, when I'm having a good day. And its not any better when I jamb the bullets .010, but if I do they wont fit in the detachable magazine.
You just need to try various OAL to find the one your rifle likes the best, but with out that tool, its hard to accurately repeat the loads OAL, as a bullets length can vary, some as much as .010. And thats the thing about the comparator, it measures the OAL off the bullets ogive, not its meplet.
The case comparator is another good tool, you would use allot, but I'm assuming your reloading fire formed brass, and neck sizing, if not you have no need for the case comparator.
Mike.

I was dimly aware of this, but have never really cared enough before to bother trying to understand. Now I get what you are saying. Measuring to the ogive would give much more consistent results, especially since the tips of the SMKs seem to all be cut at an angle.


Any lack of squareness on the tip of a SMK will have no effect on a COAL measured using the StoneyPoint gauge (or your homebrew method), as the tip of the bullet never contacts anything.

That said, your observation of 2.861" strikes me as long for a Savage .308 chamber, and you should not see rifling marks. I suspect your case neck had too much tension on the bullet, which was then pushed into the rifling on bolt closing and then partially extracted from the case on bolt opening. Off the top of my head, the StoneyPoint gauge (now sold by Hornady) was under $50.

[borg]

Yeah, I have no idea what the hell I'm doing. I just learned that i need to slit the case and lube the bullet. I do check everything with a dummy round first to make sure it all functions properly, so at least I have that going for me.

[Quickshot]

Borg, Meaning no disrespect, I have followed some of your other questions on this forum and would like to offer a few words of advice. Go out and buy a reloading manual, perhaps the latest edition of the Lyman reloading manual, which has pretty much been my reloaders "Bible". Start reading at the front cover and don't quit until you get to the back. Keep a hylighter in hand and underline warnings and "must do's". You will be a safer shooter/ reloader for yourself and range buddies. I find myself checking back from time to time to refresh my memory even though I've been at it for a while. Good Luck and be safe. Quick

[borg]

Borg, you idiot, I have followed some of your other questions on this forum and have been rolling my eyes at your ignorance. Read a book sometime. You may want to start with the latest edition of the Lyman reloading manual, which has pretty much been my reloaders "Bible". No matter which book you choose, start reading at the front cover and don't quit until you get to the back. Keep a hylighter in hand and underline the big words that you do not understand so you can look them up in a dictionary later. Reading will make you a better person and a safer shooter/ reloader, someone much less likely to kill himself or unfortunate bystanders. I still consult a reloading manual, and I actually know what I am doing. God have mercy on your soul. Quick


*sniff* Words can hurt, too, Quick...words can hurt. :'(

Point taken. ;)

[Quickshot]

Borg, I do hope you read the manual more correctly than you interpreted my words. Again, good luck and be safe. Quick

[Tightgroups]

I have a SAVAGE 308 that when loaded at factory specks of 2.800 (a jump of .100+) shoots in the .250 moa

Matter of fact anything loaded with a 175 SMK @ 2.805 will drill em!


Dennis, I know you dropped my user name, but by your choice of verbiage, it was my post you chose to quote a line from. And you have every right to quoit another post, but if its mine please dont change it. When you do, its no longer a quote. What I said was, I'm not shooting a Savage, Winchester or Remington, in fact its an H-S Precision.
And the OP and I were referring to Sierra 168g MKs @ 2.800 COAL, not 175g bullets.

[borg]

Borg, I do hope you read the manual more correctly than you interpreted my words. Again, good luck and be safe. Quick

;D I really do appreciate your help.

I do have a basic reloading guide, but it just covers the bare essentials. I was just out shopping around for a reloading manual the other night. I was torn between the Hornady manual, I primarily load their bullets, and the little caliber specific manuals (because they are cheaper and contain more specific load data). I will look more closely at the Lyman manual.

[rjtfroggy]

Borg do yourself a favor and buy a couple of good manuals and then you can reference them against each other(that's how you learn).Stay away from caliber specific to start, buy the ones that take you from a-z and read them.
BE SAFE

[Tightgroups]

Borg, your doing fine, everyone is new at reloading at some time in there life, and I dont think your real new. I started reloading 30-06 and 41 Mag back in 1966, and still dont have all the answers.

In my opinion the Sierra reloading manual is one of the best, and I have 3 or 4 different manuals, but use the Sierra 99% of the time. And in the front is allot of good info on the basic step of reloading, and the tools used.

And dont get confused by some of the terms and even some topics used on this and other gun forums, a lot of this stuff, you might call advanced reloading, and its not the best info to start out with, get the basics down pat first.

I realize your not a total newbie, so dont get me wrong, I dont know what you know. And things will change with time, even in the reloading hobby, so after the basics, and the gathering of experience, all of us still need to stay on top of the changes, so studying and learning is never ending.

No one has all the answers, despite what they say, or think, including me.
Mike.

[Heavies]

In my rifle SMK's like to jump about .020.
You could also try
remove your bolt and using a bullet(head only) hold it on the rifling with a small dowel.
Put your cleaning rod down the barrel carefully as to not damge the crown or rifling with a flat tipped jag on the end.
Mark the rod with a sharpie.
Now pop the bullet out, and replace the bolt.
Stick your rod down the barrel against the bolt face and mark again.
Bust out your caliper and measure COAL
do this a couple times to be sure of an accurate reading.