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View Full Version : New Member. Quick Q. On model 12 ftr!



SteelerNation
06-28-2014, 10:10 AM
Hello:

this is is my first post and I apologize that it has to be a **** question; however, I just can't find the right answer and have had people online in other forums tell me two different things! I tried to call Savege yesterday afternoon but there was no answer or message system...?

i am picking up a model 12 f/tr next week in .308. I was wondering if the stock comes bedded or not?

If not, I want to set up a time with my smith. However, he told me he thought they already were bedded, but wasn't sure...

thanks guys!

SteelerNation
06-28-2014, 10:55 AM
Wow. I guess I'm in trouble if no one here knows...

Rosco
06-28-2014, 12:32 PM
Someone will be along shortly :)...I am almost positive they 12's are not bedded.

earl39
06-28-2014, 05:21 PM
They have pillers but are not bedded

Bravojmc
06-29-2014, 12:31 AM
You would think a good smith would know that answer... ;)

SteelerNation
06-29-2014, 07:16 AM
You would think a good smith would know that answer... ;)
Yea.....I was thinking the same thing.....

SteelerNation
06-29-2014, 07:17 AM
So is bedding better than pillars?

earl39
06-29-2014, 11:00 AM
So is bedding better than pillars?

Yes but in a wood stock you need the pillars to be able to have the same repeatable torque on the action bolts as the wood will give if you tighten against it. Same thing goes for the plastic stocks. Bedding without pillars is really a waste of time unless you are bedding a metal bedding block that has built in pillars in which case you have pillars. Notice you always have pillars in a good bedding job.

GaryBF
06-29-2014, 11:34 AM
FWIW, I offer you these photos borrowed from GunBlast.com of a Savage 12 F-Class stock. There is no bedding and the "pillars" are below the surface of the wood (doing nothing, in my opinion).


http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk77/GaryBF42/Savage%2012%20BVSS/12Frearpillar_zps300623e9.jpg


http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk77/GaryBF42/Savage%2012%20BVSS/12Ffrontpillar_zps34ac19b6.jpg

earl39
06-29-2014, 11:51 AM
Gary has shown why you remove some of the wood when you bed a factory stock or you replace the pillars for longer ones. I myself chose to remove wood until the pillars were proud of the wood and then bed.

SteelerNation
07-02-2014, 12:43 PM
So is bedding better than pillars?


Gary has shown why you remove some of the wood when you bed a factory stock or you replace the pillars for longer ones. I myself chose to remove wood until the pillars were proud of the wood and then bed.

Thanks much guys. I think this is a job for a smith. I thought I could do the bedding on my own, but if the stock needs to be altered, even if it's just removing some wood, I feel very uncomfortable. That sucks. I was really hoping to save some money doing it myself.

why in the world would Savage allow this to happen. It's clear as day in the example above the pillars are not doing their job because of the stock. Maybe this is an isolated example....I suppose this is just what to expect out of mass production.... Bummer.

SteelerNation
07-02-2014, 12:47 PM
So how much should the pillars be protruding from the wood? 1/16", more, less?

earl39
07-02-2014, 02:45 PM
So how much should the pillars be protruding from the wood? 1/16", more, less?
Just enough to have the bedding material completely cover the wood under the action. 1/16th would be plenty. If you get it a little thicker that is fine also. Also the rougher the wood is the better because it gives your bedding material something to hold on to. In a plastic stock you want to drill a few holes at different angles but the wood is porous enough to let it glue itself to it. Just be sure to use enough release agent so your action doesn't get glued in. I use kiwi paste shoe polish.

yobuck
07-02-2014, 03:01 PM
Glass bedding is simply an easy/fast means of creating a proper contact between action and stock. A very thin (skim) coat is all thats actually required.
Guns have been known to shoot well without pillars, just a good fit between the action and stock. Some just enlarge the action screw holes to
prevent contact there. Torqeing the screws isnt always done by everybody either. Main thing is the action should fit well into the stock. The magazine opening
for example should end up being flush with the wood or at least very close. I personaly wouldnt be removing wood just to make the pillars flush. If it were needed
in order to make the action fit properly thats another issue. Otherwise id just remove some wood around them and let the glass do the rest.