Savage Riflesmiths

[big mouse]

So many of you here seem to be the do-it-yourself types who build-up your Savage rifles

yourselves. Me, I'm in an apartment and really don't have much space available except for the

kitchen table. No basement or garage to work in either. Also do not have the training, tools,

time or talent that is required for such a project. Do not want to purchase all of the

necessary equipment to do only ONE custom build; it is just not worth it. No time to view

Internet videos. Looking for a qualified, competent, professional riflesmith that some of you

may have had good experiences with. In my local area, there are no such people. We have

"gunsmiths" here for sure; some day shift arc welder knows how to remove a 1911's firing pin

and then suddenly declares himself "da gunsmit". Been there, done that. Have seen too many

fine guns butchered to the point that their owners had to return them back to the

manufacturer for rebuilding! Sorry, not interested in dealing with some "kitchen table

hobbyists"; am looking for riflesmiths who do ply their trade as a full-time occupation and

have an excellent reputation to uphold. Willing to work with anyone who's located in the U.S.,

as long as they are craftsmen. Yes, building your own Savage may be easy, but would prefer

having a "pro" do it. If I slaughter the project, parts may be ruined and I'd need to find

somebody to fix my mess. Sorry for going long; the gunsmithing situation in my city

is frustrating. Lucky are those of you who have access to good people. So, who would you

recommend for doing a custom build? Please provide names/contact info. Thank you all so

very much!!

[FW Conch]

It would help to know what type of build you have in mind ??

[emtrescue6]

What he ^^^^^ said....

[jonbearman]

stockade stocks master gunsmith kevin rayhill 1-308-432-5114

[Zaks Dad]

http://www.savagegunsmithing.com/
Scott at Savage Gunsmithing, called and talked to him today about a left handed replacement stock and he was very helpful.

[foxx]

Fred at Sharp Shooter Supply can do most anything and he is the original and ultimate Savage guru.

[devildogandboy]

Fred at Sharp Shooter Supply can do most anything and he is the original and ultimate Savage guru.

what he said +1!!

Bruce

[big mouse]

FW Conch and emtrescue6: What kind of a build am I thinking of? Rifle for target shooting, just on my own, with no hunting or serious

competition in mind. A Model 12 action. Caliber would be .223 REM/5.56 Nato. Wylde chamber. Custom heavy barrel. An aftermarket trigger

(No Accu-trigger). Aftermarket Stock, maybe a Thumbhole.


Some questions; suggestions appreciated.


1.) Laminated wood or synthetic stock; advantages/disadvantages of each? What brands are recommended for each type of material?

Don't want anything flimsy.

2.) Range has targets at 100, 200 and 300 yards only. What rate of twist is advised for these yardages?

3.) Do I only have action glass-bedded to stock, only pillar-bedded or have both done? Please elaborate on this: I'm a newbie to rifles and

Savages.

4.) Custom heavy rifled barrel blanks- Whose do I go with? How long of a barrel for my needs?

5.) Aftermarket trigger. Something in ounces. Suggestion?

6.) Action: single shot or repeater? Is there a decent variety of stocks out there for the Model 12 action in a single shot format? Or am I

only limited to what the Savage factory has?

7.) Leaning toward Thumbhole Stock. As a long time handgunner, find this type very comfortable. Is it suitable for a rifle that's only going

to be used off of a bench? Never understood why most shooters use a conventional-type of stock, such as is found on an M1 Garand.

Your entire wrist is "rolled forward" into an awkward, cramped position. Like the ergonomics of an AR-15. Nothing against semi-autos,

but for this project a slow shooting bolt gun would be just fine.


8.) Model 12 Action: Have it "trued" or "blueprinted"? What's the difference between these 2 procedures? Worth having either of them

done?


Appreciate any advice all of you experienced Savage people have. Why go the custom route when Savage now makes a Varmint Model with

a Thumbhole Stock in .223? Unfortunately, have read here where factory rifles (some of them) have come with bent barrels, crud in the

threads joining barrel to receiver, shooters having severe sight-in issues due to misaligned parts, etc, etc. Go to a competent riflesmith and

have it done right the first time! No need to wait for Savage to rework things, even if still under warranty. Such is life in our mass

produced world. See "Need Help with my scope" by Turkey Agent in this section. It's an example of what I do not want to encounter.

Thank you!

[RHM]

FW Conch and emtrescue6: What kind of a build am I thinking of? Rifle for target shooting, just on my own, with no hunting or serious

competition in mind. A Model 12 action. Caliber would be .223 REM/5.56 Nato. Wylde chamber. Custom heavy barrel. An aftermarket trigger

(No Accu-trigger). Aftermarket Stock, maybe a Thumbhole.
Caliber is a fine choice for your stated purpose. Unless you just want to build for the looks, your factory barrel with a re-cut crown and checked headspace would probably be more than adequate.

Some questions; suggestions appreciated.


1.) Laminated wood or synthetic stock; advantages/disadvantages of each? What brands are recommended for each type of material?

Don't want anything flimsy.
I don't have any laminated stocks, but some of my buddies have put them on Savages and they all work just as well as the fiberglass ones I have swapped out. Depending on the model, they might be heavier than a synthetic, but that isn't always bad. I have a Stockade stock that is part of an ongoing project, but I think others with far more experience with Savage stocks will be able to offer more educated opinions than I.

2.) Range has targets at 100, 200 and 300 yards only. What rate of twist is advised for these yardages?
Match your bullet to the twist and you should be fine at those distances. I like a 1:8 in .223, and shooting 75-77gr bullets, but I have a 1:12 CZ that shoots light bullets at those distances well, too.

3.) Do I only have action glass-bedded to stock, only pillar-bedded or have both done? Please elaborate on this: I'm a newbie to rifles and

Savages.
Depends what type of stock you go with. I primarily build Remingtons, and have been using Bell and Carlson's Medalist stock lately. It has an aluminum chassis, so I just bed. I have a Savage project underway with a semi-inletted walnut stock that will be pillar and glass bedded. Consistency is what you are striving for with either of these processes, whether it be consistency in cradling the action securely with bedding or in the torque on the action screws using pillars. If your stock is softer and might give under tension, pillar bed. Otherwise, glass bed it and see how it shoots.

4.) Custom heavy rifled barrel blanks- Whose do I go with? How long of a barrel for my needs?
A heavy barrel is beneficial for rigidity and temperature control. A short barrel can be just as accurate as a long barrel, and, given the same taper, will be more rigid. A 16" .223 barrel in any weight is not going to have any trouble getting to 300 yards accurately. Savage makes some of the best factory barrels I have inspected, and I wouldn't hesitate to save the money and spend it on ammo and range time until I found my factory barrel wasn't performing as well as it needed to accomplish my goal. There are lots of opinions on best barrel makers. I have Pac-Nor, E.R. Shaw, Douglas, Bartlein, Brux, Krieger, and Criterion. They all perform for what I got them for and set them up to do, so I don't really have a recommendation of one over another.

5.) Aftermarket trigger. Something in ounces. Suggestion?
I've only used Timney triggers to replace Savage triggers and am happy.

6.) Action: single shot or repeater? Is there a decent variety of stocks out there for the Model 12 action in a single shot format? Or am I

only limited to what the Savage factory has?
I would guess the repeater has the most accessories available. My buddy just got a fancy hinged-floorplate Savage and is now going to have to swap to a standard blind magazine in order to find a decent after-market stock for a good price.

7.) Leaning toward Thumbhole Stock. As a long time handgunner, find this type very comfortable. Is it suitable for a rifle that's only going

to be used off of a bench? Never understood why most shooters use a conventional-type of stock, such as is found on an M1 Garand.

Your entire wrist is "rolled forward" into an awkward, cramped position. Like the ergonomics of an AR-15. Nothing against semi-autos,

but for this project a slow shooting bolt gun would be just fine.
I like conventional stocks because they are most comfortable and natural to me. The few thumbholes I have used didn't quite fit a meaty palm, whereas a standard stock has room above or below where I grip it.

8.) Model 12 Action: Have it "trued" or "blueprinted"? What's the difference between these 2 procedures? Worth having either of them

done?
Same thing, the terms are often thrown around interchangeably (and without definition). What you are doing with the process is squaring everything (to make "true," or perfect like a "blueprint"). I like to base it off of the boltway rather than some doing it off the outside of the receiver, but that's just how I was taught. I start by recutting the threads to be concentric with the boltway, then the lug abutments, and receiver face. I lap, rather than re-cut the recoil lugs. For a Savage, I throw the locking nut on the same mandrel as I do the receiver and square the front and back, as well. The back matters because it is up against the recoil lug, the squaring the front doesn't do anything but clean it up aesthetically. Surface grind the original recoil lug, or, buy a quality replacement (a better option), and you're good to go. Truing the receiver is worthwhile, in my opinion. Truing the action is more important than replacing the barrel; the most expensive after-market barrel won't help if it isn't concentric with the action, but a factory barrel on a trued receiver can show a good amount of improvement. The retail cost for truing a receiver is one of the most reasonable expenses in building a custom rifle (likely around $100).

Appreciate any advice all of you experienced Savage people have. Why go the custom route when Savage now makes a Varmint Model with

a Thumbhole Stock in .223? Unfortunately, have read here where factory rifles (some of them) have come with bent barrels, crud in the

threads joining barrel to receiver, shooters having severe sight-in issues due to misaligned parts, etc, etc. Go to a competent riflesmith and

have it done right the first time! No need to wait for Savage to rework things, even if still under warranty. Such is life in our mass

produced world. See "Need Help with my scope" by Turkey Agent in this section. It's an example of what I do not want to encounter.

Thank you!

If there is a factory rifle in a configuration you like, go for it. If it shoots well, you're way ahead of the game. If it shoots well and you want great, start with the blueprinting and re-cutting the crown with a bedding job, and you might be in there. I am primarily a Remington riflesmith, but can attest that Savage doesn't have the market cornered on factory misalignment of parts! But, everything is fixable. I would be very surprised if any "misalignment" were covered under a warranty. I've seen some really bad Remington 700s, but they were all within tolerance to ship from the factory. You will find "crud" in the barrel threads since the factories use some sort of thread locker that looks really nasty when removed.

Keep us posted on your progress.

[foxx]

Good advice here. Fred at Sharp Shooter Supply has a unique "Timie & True" servicethat does whatwas said above and ALSO improves the bolt lift and smoothness of the action. I have not had one done yet, but I will soon. To the best of my knowledge, no one else offers this same service. I am told it greatly improves the function by aligning and truing all the parts for optimum function.

I have Accutriggers, Rifle Basix Savage-1 and the Sharp Shooter Supply Competition Trigger. All are good, but the SSS Comp Trigger is my favorite, by far.

[emtrescue6]

I would also speak to Fred at SSS...he's your best bet in my opinion for a Savage build....when building a custom rifle, take your time and think every part and piece out...read a lot and ask a lot of questions. I had a custom rifle built on a Remington 700 action that was completed last fall...it was about an 18 month process start to finish. Also, be prepared to spend way more than you initially expected...LOL. All of my Savage builds I have done myself....a very rewarding process.

[emtrescue6]

FW Conch and emtrescue6: What kind of a build am I thinking of? Rifle for target shooting, just on my own, with no hunting or serious

competition in mind. A Model 12 action. Caliber would be .223 REM/5.56 Nato. Wylde chamber. Custom heavy barrel. An aftermarket trigger

(No Accu-trigger). Aftermarket Stock, maybe a Thumbhole.

Some questions; suggestions appreciated.


1.) Laminated wood or synthetic stock; advantages/disadvantages of each? What brands are recommended for each type of material?

Don't want anything flimsy.

2.) Range has targets at 100, 200 and 300 yards only. What rate of twist is advised for these yardages?

3.) Do I only have action glass-bedded to stock, only pillar-bedded or have both done? Please elaborate on this: I'm a newbie to rifles and

Savages.

4.) Custom heavy rifled barrel blanks- Whose do I go with? How long of a barrel for my needs?

5.) Aftermarket trigger. Something in ounces. Suggestion?

6.) Action: single shot or repeater? Is there a decent variety of stocks out there for the Model 12 action in a single shot format? Or am I

only limited to what the Savage factory has?

7.) Leaning toward Thumbhole Stock. As a long time handgunner, find this type very comfortable. Is it suitable for a rifle that's only going

to be used off of a bench? Never understood why most shooters use a conventional-type of stock, such as is found on an M1 Garand.

Your entire wrist is "rolled forward" into an awkward, cramped position. Like the ergonomics of an AR-15. Nothing against semi-autos,

but for this project a slow shooting bolt gun would be just fine.


8.) Model 12 Action: Have it "trued" or "blueprinted"? What's the difference between these 2 procedures? Worth having either of them

done?


Appreciate any advice all of you experienced Savage people have. Why go the custom route when Savage now makes a Varmint Model with

a Thumbhole Stock in .223? Unfortunately, have read here where factory rifles (some of them) have come with bent barrels, crud in the

threads joining barrel to receiver, shooters having severe sight-in issues due to misaligned parts, etc, etc. Go to a competent riflesmith and

have it done right the first time! No need to wait for Savage to rework things, even if still under warranty. Such is life in our mass

produced world. See "Need Help with my scope" by Turkey Agent in this section. It's an example of what I do not want to encounter.

Thank you!

Budget is eveything when it comes to a custom build....

1....stock...on the cheap end one can make the Boyds Tacticool stocks work very well with a little effort...on the higher end of the spectrum high quality wood stocks can set you back well over a grand....the Tacticool will set you back a couple hundred once all the work on it is done...make sure the stock is going to fit you...when spending this kinda money and to end up with the LOP off would suck...I am a wood guy too!

2. Twist rate...you want to target shoot, which means I assume you want to shoot the heavier bullets...I wouldn't go slower than a 1:8 if you want to shoot the heavier bullets. Also, pick your bullet now, as many of the target bullets perform better seated long and you'd be best off to have your chamber cut for that bullet seating depth....that is if you want to shoot a specific bullet as most target shooters do....

3. For a wood stock...it's best to both pillar and glass bed in my opinion...

4. There are lots of great barrel makers in the US....I personally have barrels from Lilja, Pac-Nor, Shilen and Douglas right now...and have had barrels from Krieger as well...they all did what they were supposed to, but cutting the chamber and crown and installation is as important as a quality barrel that will shoot when it is all said and done. Invest in the best barrel you can...and I personally prefer stainless steel barrels...My favorite barrels are my Lilja and Pac-Nor's...great barrels and awesome Customer Service....when the owner of the company answers the phones and will talk to you for as long as you want and answer all your questions goes a long way...

5. Lots of great aftermarket triggers out there...I am actually a fan of the Target AccuTrigger and have used them on all of my Savage builds....but people rave about Rifle Basix and several others....try to find someone that has some of these triggers to test, just because someone else likes it, doesn't mean you will.

6. Action is up to you....any repeater can be converted to a single shot....now days you will likely have to buy an action from some place like SSS or NSS as Savage hasn't had any in stock in ages from what I hear...or buy a donor rifle and gut the action (this is my preferred option)

7. Again...buy a stock that fits you....

8. Have it timed and trued (Fred at SSS has a great rep for this)...also have a lift kit installed....a Savage action can't be blueprinted in the traditional meaning like a Rem 700 action can. Also get a precision barrel nut and recoil lug as well.

Be patient, take your time and interview a couple builders before you choose one....listen to your builder, but remember it's your rifle...and be prepared to spend more...LOL And most of all...have fun with the build....this is my last custom build (took 18 months start to finish...it shoots 1/2 MOA with fireforming loads and 1/4 MOA with fireformed loads with 100g Nosler BT's)....Remington 700 BDL Long action (started life as a 270 Win)....chambered in 257 Roberts Ackley Improved, Blueprinted and sleeved action, Shilen Custom Rifle trigger, Lilja #3 Stainless Barrel bead blasted and cut to 24" with a 11* recesed target crown and matching custom made muzzle break, pillar and glass beaded and free floated barrel...stock was made by CRS in PA from AAA Black Walnut and wears 13 coats of tung oil. Optics have been changed since this pic and are now a Nikon Monarch 4-16x50SF in Warne bases and rings (the pic has a 6-18x50 Swift Premier)

I plan for this to be my primary deer rifle starting this year....


...http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/29/unepyqeb.jpg