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emtrescue6
06-26-2014, 05:37 PM
I picked one up at a yard sale for $3.The barrel nut community reloading hammer, who do I send it to first ?
http://s20.postimg.org/qjerr8zn1/DSCN2315.jpg

Do you realize how stupid I feel from thinking that unscrewing the nylon brush every pass through the barrel was helping ? :black_eyed: That is time wasted that I'll never get back.....:frusty:

The Scope Eye Special!

Waaaaaaaaaait.....you don't unscrew the brush every pass anymore? Oh Heaaaaall no! :dazed&cornfussed:

scope eye
06-26-2014, 05:40 PM
Are you guys done yet, it is that time of the month and I am very sensitive you know.

No Signature

cranebird
06-26-2014, 06:20 PM
The Scope Eye Special!

Waaaaaaaaaait.....you don't unscrew the brush every pass anymore? Oh Heaaaaall no! :dazed&cornfussed:

:chargrined:

fgw_in_fla
06-26-2014, 07:05 PM
I think we're done now.

Guys?
Are we done tormenting Deano? I don't want to see him on the 6 o'clock news trying to commit suicide by jumping out a basement window or anything like that.

We're all sorry Dean.
Really we are.
Here. Have a nice bacon wrapped boneless chicken breast. Smoked to perfection as the delicate thin cloud of Apple wood smoke dances around it:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/baconbreasts002.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/baconbreasts002.jpg.html)

thermaler
06-26-2014, 08:09 PM
We got the faster than a speeding bullet part--but what about able to leap tall buildings in a single bound?

cranebird
06-27-2014, 08:17 PM
in annealing the case necks. Do you fill the brass cartridges with water for annealing the necks or leave them empty and just submerge the brass in water below the neck line ?
:pop2:

cranebird
06-28-2014, 10:15 PM
What sort of lazy Susan do you use to rotate the brass to anneal it ? Maybe should look for a mini potters wheel with a rheostat speed control or something along that line or am I making it more difficult than it should be ? :confused:

fgw_in_fla
06-28-2014, 10:43 PM
How To Anneal - A Pictorial...

Get these:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/annealing001.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/annealing001.jpg.html)
On the end of the nut driver, put this:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/annealing002.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/annealing002.jpg.html)
Use it to heat the brass until you see a pale bluish color on the neck - like this:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/annealing003.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/annealing003.jpg.html)
Quench:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/annealing004.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/annealing004.jpg.html)
Done. Let dry, clean & size, reload and shoot. Repeat as needed:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/fgwinfla/annealing005.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/fgwinfla/media/annealing005.jpg.html)

Apply the heat (yellow part of flame right where the blue point is) to the shoulder of the brass. Do not get it any hotter than a bluish color. Once it starts getting red the brass will start to break down and it'll lose its springiness. If you see the case neck is shiny, it means the zinc is trying to escape. Too hot. Bluish / purple is plenty of heat.

drybean
06-28-2014, 11:35 PM
Now I know my Problem, needed 270 cups of coffee

fgw_in_fla
06-28-2014, 11:54 PM
Ya know Jim, I find the Folgers coffee can provides much more consistent neck tension as opposed to Maxwell House can. The nervous hand shaking from excess caffeine provides a more even annealing, too.

cranebird
06-29-2014, 06:32 AM
Thank you for taking the time to post the info Frank. I was thinking that you wanted to submerge the case in water while annealing so there was no chance of the rest of the case softening while annealing the shoulder and neck. I'll go ahead and put that cut down canned ham tin on the shelf next to my nylon bristled cleaning brush.....Thinking I need to lay off the coffee as well. Batdorf & Bronson makes a Dancing goat coffee...Makes me more nervous than the bullet chosen to be loaded to scope eye's data.......:(

fgw_in_fla
06-29-2014, 06:51 AM
There is a method of annealing where the brass is standing in a pan with a little water. After heating, the case is knocked over for a quench. The purpose of the water is so the case head doesn't get too hot and softened too much. It works if you can keep the cases from getting knocked over with the torch.
There's a few methods of annealing without a fancy gadget. The method I displayed I have been using for a few years. I neck size for 3 firings then anneal and full size. My main goal is to get as much life from the brass as possible.
Just remember to not overheat. If you see the neck is getting "silvery" or sometimes black - it's too hot. Some guys will say the overheated brass is no good. I have over heated cases and used them anyway. You'll find it affects neck tension and you have to shoot and full size it several times to get the brass to tighten up.


"more nervous than the bullet chosen to be loaded to scope eye's data"????
Now that was funny.

scope eye
06-29-2014, 06:52 AM
Hey Frank, what is that case holder you got there.

Dean

Wow you guys are starting on me this early.

fgw_in_fla
06-29-2014, 06:56 AM
It's the lock stud from a Lee case trimmer:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Just need the screw on collar for the correct sized case - Lee#2 I think.

PS - I use one in my battery drill to spin the brass for trimming and cleaning.

fgw_in_fla
06-29-2014, 06:59 AM
One more thing about annealing.
Punch the primer out before starting. It'll help the water to dump out after quench.

scope eye
06-29-2014, 07:04 AM
One more thing about annealing.
Punch the primer out before starting. It'll help the water to dump out after quench.

Primers don't need to be punched out, they fall out on there own, SILLY

NAED
that's written in code

fgw_in_fla
06-29-2014, 07:09 AM
Alright....

Primers should be removed prior to annealing UNLESS they fall out before hand.

My mistake. Its early and I forgot you were here already.

fgw_in_fla
06-29-2014, 07:22 AM
Deano-
You need one of these brass holder thingies?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476992/lee-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud?cm_vc=ProductFinding
I have an extra I can send with my next donation to Bullets & Brass for Buddies if you need.
I can add a collar for a .473" case, too. I don't have any for magnum (I don't think) but may have an extra for 9mm.

yobuck
06-29-2014, 10:00 AM
There is a product called Tempilac that removes the guesswork as to how much heat needs to be applied.
After time, a trained eye as for the right color will work also. Not all systems require dunking in water.
Bill reccomended a system to me that works very well, is very fast, reasonably priced and doesent require dunking.
It uses 2 torches. Anneal rite , they have a website.

cranebird
06-29-2014, 02:58 PM
Hey Frank, what is that case holder you got there.

Dean

Wow you guys are starting on me this early.

I also have an extra cutter & lock stud and I would be glad to send it to you since I started in on you so early this morning. :tea:I could have said that I was sweating bullets but it doesn't have the same effect......:heh: