n4ue
06-16-2014, 06:02 PM
I have rechambered / rebarreled a dozen or so Savage rifles in the last year or so. Just a couple of 'tricks' I discovered on my latest build......
If you are a professional gunsmith / machinist, I'm sure you know this, so please don't bust my bal**, just trying to help!
- bbl removal. This has been a mixed bag. I have had some come off pretty easy, others, I swear were welded on. My brand new Axis (5 shots through it) was ready for an Ackley Improved ream job.
(I discovered this working on a piece of electronic test equipment, I collect. The shaft for one of the controls was frozen)
So, I had the bbl action in a padded vise, with the muzzle up. I dribbled a 50/50 mixture of Kroil and lacquer thinner into the bbl nut. I did this multiple times over 2 days. I put the Wheeler Eng wrench on the nut, the bbl in a set of Aluminum jaws made for this purpose into my bench vice.
One whack with a dead blow hammer and the nut loosened right up. I have beat previous nuts many, many times before they moved.
Being this is a sample size of ONE, I can't predict how it will work again, until I do another bbl.
I thought if I had applied a 'little' heat, the hammer might have been un-necessary.....
- thread tapping. I have a small machine shop and make most of my own tooling for gun smithing. This means a lot of drilling / tapping. I always use the correct drill and have always used 'Tap Magic' or whatever good oil I had on hand. Today, I wad tapping a deep hole (6-32) in a piece of Aluminum. I could feel the tap binding, despite my '1/2 turn in - backup' routine. I felt sure the tap would break. I grabbed a container of "Lubro-Moly' and tried that. The tap went is so easy, I couldn't believe it.
This product has excellent reviews as a motor oil additive, but I just use it for lubing stuff in the shop......
FWIW
ron
N4UE
If you are a professional gunsmith / machinist, I'm sure you know this, so please don't bust my bal**, just trying to help!
- bbl removal. This has been a mixed bag. I have had some come off pretty easy, others, I swear were welded on. My brand new Axis (5 shots through it) was ready for an Ackley Improved ream job.
(I discovered this working on a piece of electronic test equipment, I collect. The shaft for one of the controls was frozen)
So, I had the bbl action in a padded vise, with the muzzle up. I dribbled a 50/50 mixture of Kroil and lacquer thinner into the bbl nut. I did this multiple times over 2 days. I put the Wheeler Eng wrench on the nut, the bbl in a set of Aluminum jaws made for this purpose into my bench vice.
One whack with a dead blow hammer and the nut loosened right up. I have beat previous nuts many, many times before they moved.
Being this is a sample size of ONE, I can't predict how it will work again, until I do another bbl.
I thought if I had applied a 'little' heat, the hammer might have been un-necessary.....
- thread tapping. I have a small machine shop and make most of my own tooling for gun smithing. This means a lot of drilling / tapping. I always use the correct drill and have always used 'Tap Magic' or whatever good oil I had on hand. Today, I wad tapping a deep hole (6-32) in a piece of Aluminum. I could feel the tap binding, despite my '1/2 turn in - backup' routine. I felt sure the tap would break. I grabbed a container of "Lubro-Moly' and tried that. The tap went is so easy, I couldn't believe it.
This product has excellent reviews as a motor oil additive, but I just use it for lubing stuff in the shop......
FWIW
ron
N4UE