Another bedding question

[ande7824]

Hello, this is my first post, but I have been lurking around a bit. I just purchased a savage model 10 and am starting a project rifle. I ordered a B&C medalist stock from Midway. I have done some searching and it has left me quite confused. I saw the fantastic tutorial on the 6mmbr website, but it left me with some questions. From the reading i have done, it seems like the rear tang should not be bedded in a savage, or should it? Also, how far past the recoil lug should bedding contact the barrel? Some people say none past the rear of the recoil lug recess and some say do the whole forearm with 2 or 3 layers of tape on the barrel to free float it. Or should none of this even matter with the aluminum bedding block? Could someone clarify for me? ??? Thanks in advance.

Jason

[docsleepy]

Most everyone agrees the tang should be free floating.
Some people bed up a ways on the barrel (be CERTAIN that you fill the grooves in the barrel nut with playdo or you'll have a "glue in"!!
MOST people do not bed up the barrel.
MOST people put 2 layers of masking tape on sides,bottom and front of recoil lug
EVERYONE makes certain the rear of the recoil lug is bedded nicely (release agent, no tape)
I think.

hope that helps. There is a nice tutorial on this site with photos.

[Bad Water Bill]

Ah I think you have to be a paid member to learn all them top secret lessons.

Welcome to our happy home paid member or not :) :)

[GaCop]

Docsleepy nailed it down nicely.

[ande7824]

Thanks guys. One question on free floating the tang...how do you do it? I am imagining a little stock removal, adding tape to tang and bedding. When all is done, removed the tape and it would be free floated. This would only be applied to the part immediately behind the bolt and rearward. Correct? I just don't want to screw this up.

Thanks again.

Jason

[tucker301]

Jason,
Here is some good information with pics of a Savage action being bedded.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1063815&page=1

[jo191145]

Heres a very small bedding tip I learned totally by accident.
Get a couple drinking straws. Cut em into 2'' pieces.
After your action is in place and the epoxy oozes up between the action and stock.
Run them bad boys down through the excess epoxy (hole to the front sorta like a wood chisel)
They'll conform to the action and stock perfectly and even cut into the void a little.
The straw will fill up with epoxy and clean up the mess totally.
Saves a lot of sanding or filing. Try it!

[ande7824]

thats actually a really good idea. thanks :)

[Netz]

Thanks guys. One question on free floating the tang...how do you do it? I am imagining a little stock removal, adding tape to tang and bedding. When all is done, removed the tape and it would be free floated. This would only be applied to the part immediately behind the bolt and rearward. Correct? I just don't want to screw this up.

Thanks again.

Jason


Actually your bedding will stop at the rear action screw,the area in front of the trigger, The Bedding wont even be close to the tang area. But go ahead and put 2 layers of tape on it so if it does touch you will have some clearance without having to grind it in.
CUrt

[davemuzz]

Most everyone agrees the tang should be free floating.
Some people bed up a ways on the barrel (be CERTAIN that you fill the grooves in the barrel nut with playdo or you'll have a "glue in"!!
MOST people do not bed up the barrel.
MOST people put 2 layers of masking tape on sides,bottom and front of recoil lug
EVERYONE makes certain the rear of the recoil lug is bedded nicely (release agent, no tape)
I think.

hope that helps. There is a nice tutorial on this site with photos.



The above is an excellent post on bedding. I could not agree more.

Here is 2 pics of my Davcon bedding on a Stevens 200 stock. Just after I pulled the action out of the stock.....and prior to cleaning up some of the "over-gorp" with a dremmel 'n file.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/DSC00583.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/DSC00582.jpg

[Hylander]

I bed the first part of the Chamber, basically half of the Barrel Nut.
Have not attempted the Rear on a Savage yet.
Just did this one today

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b193/hylander7/Firearms/Smithing/IMG_0055.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b193/hylander7/Firearms/Smithing/IMG_0063.jpg

[Netz]

Hello, this is my first post, but I have been lurking around a bit. I just purchased a savage model 10 and am starting a project rifle. I ordered a B&C medalist stock from Midway. I have done some searching and it has left me quite confused. I saw the fantastic tutorial on the 6mmbr website, but it left me with some questions. From the reading i have done, it seems like the rear tang should not be bedded in a savage, or should it? Also, how far past the recoil lug should bedding contact the barrel? Some people say none past the rear of the recoil lug recess and some say do the whole forearm with 2 or 3 layers of tape on the barrel to free float it. Or should none of this even matter with the aluminum bedding block? Could someone clarify for me? ??? Thanks in advance.

Jason


I missed that one, what would be the point of bedding an area that is not going to be bedded due to the 2 layers of tape,unless it was for cosmetic or structural reason. I think the full bedding of the barrel was an old school thing, My Grandfather bedded the barrel on my .243 he made back in the late 60's, the idea now is you want the barrel free floated to let the harmonics to be undisturbed, the practice of bedding the first 2-3 inches was an effort to add support to the heavy bull type barrels and take stress off the receiver.
The bedding of the recoil lug should only be at the rear of the lug, the front and sides should not be touching anything.
As far as the Bedding Block in concerned, I have a Remington PSS that has it, I have noticed a wear pattern in the aluminium, I would suspect that if the wear patterns were not even side to side that it would be a cause to skim bed it, I know allot of guys do it anyway, I'll eventually do mine, I don't think it will hurt anything, it can only help.
Curt

Here's a gratuitous shot of the .243 my Grandfather made, my Dad at the trigger (early 70's), He also made a .270 out of the same wood, I saw it once (the day he dropped of mine).
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/70-4108.jpg

[ande7824]

Yea I think it was used to stiffen forearm areas as well as fix aesthetic issues with barrels not looking "centered." i don't really know, im definitely not an expert. Thanks for everyone's replies! It has been uber helpful.

Jason