New savage build accuracy concerns

[Jonl]

I notice one reply said the recoil lug needs clearance on front, sides and bottom. I thought it needed to be bedded to stop torquing and movement

[foxx]

I notice one reply said the recoil lug needs clearance on front, sides and bottom. I thought it needed to be bedded to stop torquing and movement

the lug should be floated except for the rear face of the lug (breach side) It should be true to the rear of the recoil lug so the recoil does not force the action/barrel to one side or the other under recoil.

[foxx]

Ok great. Thanks for the picts and the helpful insights. Im going to bed the 111 soon and maybe pillar bed it shortly after.

I don' think it is possible to bed and then pillar later. Doesn't make much sense to me to try, anyhow. Just my humble opinion, of course.

[Jonl]

How does it stop side to side movement if it only touches the breach side? My Choate tactical stock had a big gap in front and side of lug and the Choate tech guy said it was left that way because people were putting thicker lugs on but he would bed the entire lug if it was his which I did and the gun shoots under 1/2 moa. This was my first but not last build and maybe I was lucky.

[foxx]

some shooters will permanently bed their action to their stock, but I won't.

If the action is bedded properly it won't shift. The recoil lug is suppose to handle the recoil, it is not there to stop any side to side twisting caused by pour action bedding.

[jammied]

I have noticed on 2 of my factory savage stocks that the factory pillars are recessed in the stock and not touching the action. One being a 14 american classic in 300wsm both pillars are recessed. The other a 11 trophy hunter xp in .243 on this stock the rear pillar is touching the action and the front( recoil lug end) is not and was recessed. I tapped the front pillar out of the stock and done a little work and devconed it back in slighly higher. The 14 american classic has a pretty stock and I dont want to ugly it up lol.

[stewart3]

bed pillars and action at same time. this is a common topic and a forum search will provide much info. +1 on electrical tape for tang float. also, a dremel will remove excess material or make clean relief cuts where needed. try plumbers putty for trapping and filling it's cheap and works well I like kiwi neutral shoe polish for a release agent. lamp rod makes good pillars. my boyds stock had a plastic insert in the front screw hole torque means nothing if squashing plastic is the result. might want to use a little tape on that recoil lug bed the back tight. good luck

[triehl27]

bed pillars and action at same time. this is a common topic and a forum search will provide much info. +1 on electrical tape for tang float. also, a dremel will remove excess material or make clean relief cuts where needed. try plumbers putty for trapping and filling it's cheap and works well I like kiwi neutral shoe polish for a release agent. lamp rod makes good pillars. my boyds stock had a plastic insert in the front screw hole torque means nothing if squashing plastic is the result. might want to use a little tape on that recoil lug bed the back tight. good luck

Remingtonman - I had the very same issue just recently with a 308 I built. No matter what I did I couldn't get it down below 3-4" groups. I finally bedded the recoil lug, I used what I had, which was quik steel, with a layer of tape around the edges of the lug and on the front, and shoe polish as my release agent rub it ALL over! Worked great! Rifle was immeadiatly down under and inch. There was a good 1/8 of space behind the recoil lug, it wasn't doing anything before bedding.

I probably should have used 2 layers of tape in spots, but it fits and it is TIGHT. There are a couple fo GREAT youtube videos on bedding, I watched those and dove in. I did use the remainder of the quiksteel to reenforce the spine of the plastic stock out to the forend, just packed it in as tight as I could, added a fair amout of rigidity to the stock. I am running a .990 thick barrel so stock flex isn't a major concern of mine.

[Remingtonman]

Remingtonman - I had the very same issue just recently with a 308 I built. No matter what I did I couldn't get it down below 3-4" groups. I finally bedded the recoil lug, I used what I had, which was quik steel, with a layer of tape around the edges of the lug and on the front, and shoe polish as my release agent rub it ALL over! Worked great! Rifle was immeadiatly down under and inch. There was a good 1/8 of space behind the recoil lug, it wasn't doing anything before bedding.

I probably should have used 2 layers of tape in spots, but it fits and it is TIGHT. There are a couple fo GREAT youtube videos on bedding, I watched those and dove in. I did use the remainder of the quiksteel to reenforce the spine of the plastic stock out to the forend, just packed it in as tight as I could, added a fair amout of rigidity to the stock. I am running a .990 thick barrel so stock flex isn't a major concern of mine.

Sounds just like my problem that im having lol. Should I use tape on anything else besides my recoil lug and barrel nut before applying my bedding compound, or should I just apply tape to my whole action for proper spacing between action and stock once the bedding compound has cured?

[limige]

I put two layers on tape on the tang, sides of the recoil lug and front of lug. One layer around barrel nut and down the length of the barrel to insure its floats. Then along the top edge of the stock along the action area and inside the box mag if you have one. Also one wrap around each action screw and coat them well in release agent. I have a set with the heads cut off to align the action. You dont want to screw the action down only set it in place and hold it tightly with masking tape. Then coat everything in release agent you dont want bedding compound on. Use putty on the sear and barrel nut area to stop leakage and haven't lots of q tips handy for cleanup once you seat it.

[stewart3]

This is just my opinion but if you don't pillar bed those boyds stocks eventually there will be issues. If I could get photobucket to talk to my machine I would give you some pics of a 7rm in a boyds that shoots one ragged hole at a 100yds. Again, a search of this site will provide countless photos and info on how to properly bed a savage in a boyds. Your factory plastic stock has pillars why would you think that a wood and glue stock won't need them. Bed your lug and skim bed the Tupperware and your 300wnm will shoot better! or maybe it won't for a while. Then there will be another remmy guy who **** talks savages.

[homefrontsniper]

Scope.

[Remingtonman]

What kind of pillars do you all recommend for the 111 stock?

[drybean]

I use lamp rod

[foxx]

I also use lamp rod. I like the fact it is cheap, readily available and threaded. Threading makes the bedding compound grip it better.

I would like something similar with larger inside diameter, however. It works, but I would like to have more clearance around the action screws.

[emtrescue6]

Another vote for lamp rod....for the same reasons Foxx says...