Axis trigger job complete

[kyron4]

I followed the advice here and used the 10-24 screw and lighter spring on the trigger. I also used brass shims to remove all the wiggle and play from the trigger. Cleaned the sear and notch and used a high end grease. Went from 5 1/2 to 6# pull to right at 3 1/2 lbs. Trigger has slight creep but has zero over travel since setting the cap screw. I don't like super light triggers, so 3.5 # with a slight bit of creep is just fine for me. Next up reinforcing the stock with steel rods and epoxy.

[phoenix1151]

I merely trimmed my trigger spring and the trigger is fine for me.

I did the forestock stiffening, but was going to use 1/4 inch diameter drill rod as it has a better elastic modulus (stiffer) than plain steel rod, however I just ended up skipping the rods altogether and only using JB Weld. I also sanded out the barrel channel as suggested. My desire was to just eliminate noticeable forestock torqueing, particularly since I want to use a bipod.

This forum is great for good ideas like that.

[highorder]

I replaced my trigger spring with a Pilot G2, filled the buttstock with silicone, and filled the forend with two aluminum arrow sections (filled with silicone) embedded in JB Weld.

The trigger really does need shimming to remove side to side play.

[phoenix1151]

I replaced my trigger spring with a Pilot G2, filled the buttstock with silicone, and filled the forend with two aluminum arrow sections (filled with silicone) embedded in JB Weld.

The trigger really does need shimming to remove side to side play.

Yes, I read another post about the arrow shafts and thought that was a good idea for weight limiting, but I looked at my XX75 shafts (spine for a 70 lb bow) and still thought they were not stiff enough. Filling the buttstock with something to deaden the hollow "clunk" sound when it hits anything is OK, and I've been thinking of doing that with my Weatherby Vanguard 30-06 synthetic stock because I still-hunt with it, but my Axis is just for coyote so I don't see a lot of still-hunting with it. I'm considering filling the pistolgrip area with some metal insert and epoxy as others have mentioned.


I'm also considering adding brass washers to the wobbly trigger too.


All great ideas from this forum. :canada:

[DrThunder88]

I never noticed the side-to-side movement of the trigger, but I did shim the sear interface to remove creep. I'll have to see if the wobble is there and my stubby finger just never felt it.

[kyron4]

I merely trimmed my trigger spring and the trigger is fine for me.

I did the forestock stiffening, but was going to use 1/4 inch diameter drill rod as it has a better elastic modulus (stiffer) than plain steel rod, however I just ended up skipping the rods altogether and only using JB Weld. I also sanded out the barrel channel as suggested. My desire was to just elimiate noticeable forestock torqueing, particularly since I want to use a bipod.

This forum is great for good ideas like that.

Did the JB weld alone stiffen the forstock and eliminate torqueing ? How many packs of JB weld did it take ?

[phoenix1151]

The JB Weld seems to have been enough but I have not put the bipod back on yet and shot the Axis. Any torqueing now seems to occur back at the magazine compartment. Coupled with the barrel channel enlargement, I anticipate no interference with the barrel.

I found the JB Weld a bit thick to spread and I suggest masking the inner sides of the barrel channel after enlarging it and before applying the JB. Mine took 4 packs.

[kyron4]

The JB Weld seems to have been enough but I have not put the bipod back on yet and shot the Axis. Any torqueing now seems to occur back at the magazine compartment. Coupled with the barrel channel enlargement, I anticipate no interference with the barrel.

I found the JB Weld a bit thick to spread and I suggest masking the inner sides of the barrel channel after enlarging it and before applying the JB. Mine took 4 packs.

Thanks

[cranebird]

I have 100 hardened stainless steel 9/64" balls on order but they're backordered. That is the next thing to do is to mod your extractor since you are into easy mods to better the budget gun. Boots did an excellent write up on how to on the home page.

[phoenix1151]

........... but I did shim the sear interface to remove creep.........

I haven't read anything on that yet. What's that all about and what's the materials and method ?

edit (try #2) : I found a few posts where an apparently archived post/thread that discussed sear shimming was linked but when I try it I get denied. Not enough posts by me or something? What's so "can't touch this" about old posts/threads? Anyway, can someone repost it somehow so I can read it?

[cranebird]

I haven't read anything on that yet. What's that all about and what's the materials and method ?

edit (try #2) : I found a few posts where an apparently archived post/thread that discussed sear shimming was linked but when I try it I get denied. Not enough posts by me or something? What's so "can't touch this" about old posts/threads? Anyway, can someone repost it somehow so I can read it?

You are denied to read it because you have not become a paid member.

[phoenix1151]

You are denied to read it because you have not become a paid member.

Oh, OK. I still fail to see what's so "can't touch this" about old posts/threads, but whatever.

[foxx]

This site has "premium" articles avail to paid members. ($15 per year) It's an effort to add value to the paid membership status.

They are not trying to keep you from reading older posts, it just happens to be one that is only avail to paid members.

This is a relatively small site dedicated to a very narrow subject and the owner uses membership fees and advertisers to help pay his admin fees. Yes, he also earns a modest profit from the site, and is well deserved. It is like a magazine subscription.

I would encourage anyone interested in Savage firearms to be a paid member so as to have access to these premium articles and the "Member Classifieds." Those who do find they more than make up for the $15 cost thru the great deals made available to them there.

[LHitchcox]

Well said.

[cranebird]

This site has "premium" articles avail to paid members. ($15 per year) It's an effort to add value to the paid membership status.

They are not trying to keep you from reading older posts, it just happens to be one that is only avail to paid members.

This is a relatively small site dedicated to a very narrow subject and the owner uses membership fees and advertisers to help pay his admin fees. Yes, he also earns a modest profit from the site, and is well deserved. It is like a magazine subscription.

I would encourage anyone interested in Savage firearms to be a paid member so as to have access to these premium articles and the "Member Classifieds." Those who do find they more than make up for the $15 cost thru the great deals made available to them there. yes it is a great forum.I've yet to find it worth paying to gain access to the classified section but did find a deal on a new ,223 barrel there but changed my mind when Fred don't chamber for .223 ackley improved.