Rifle pillar bedding

[Silvercrow1]

Brian! LOL

I didn't mean to suggest the holes should be so big that you break the stock. :) But once done, the bedding compound is stronger than the stock, so don't worry that wood around the hole gets a little thin, as long as it doesn't snap when drilling it out and / or break the stock before the bedding compound sets. :)

But, yes, be careful and go slow. When you put a regular drill bit into the original hole, it can slip and twist in such a way that you can damage or crack the stock.

Didn't mean to imply that you did Bro! I had actually "broke through" slightly on a Tupperware stock...and that MKII Classic of mine...I honestly didn't think I could keep that darned bit straight enough to not cause a "break-out". AND as you've said- the epoxy (I use JD Weld) will strengthen the area anyway. Truth is I am NOT a very "handy" woodworker- but I've been surprised / surprised myself at what I could do after getting some good advice here...and taking my time (patience is ALSO not an attribute of mine!)

Brian

[Luke45]

I have an old 721 remington that is a wood stock, not floated or bedded in any manner, same as it came from the facory in 1952 and the POI hasnt changed since i sighted it in 9 years ago ;) 1/2moa withhandloads, maybe i got lucky !

That being said, If your stock is not pillar bedded but your action screws are tightening against metatl (metal tigger guard, ect) is pillaring still nessescary if your action is glass bedded? seems like the induced stresses from tightening would be spread out over a large area of the stock and would be lessened a great deal and you wouldnt crush much

[foxx]

I have an old 721 remington that is a wood stock, not floated or bedded in any manner, same as it came from the facory in 1952 and the POI hasnt changed since i sighted it in 9 years ago ;) 1/2moa withhandloads, maybe i got lucky !

That being said, If your stock is not pillar bedded but your action screws are tightening against metatl (metal tigger guard, ect) is pillaring still nessescary if your action is glass bedded? seems like the induced stresses from tightening would be spread out over a large area of the stock and would be lessened a great deal and you wouldnt crush much

My guess is you are not shooting in extreme temps and humidity changes. Wood will expand and contract depending on the environment. If the wood pushes the action or barrel one way or another, it will (theoretically) push or stress and affect the bullet somewhat. If, however, you are getting 1/2 moa groups under every conceivable circumstances, don't mess with it! :)

As for pillars, if your trigger guard and other bottom metal is acting as a big washer and not allowing the wood to compress, then that's good. Don't worry about it.

Having said all that, I bet if you did decide to pillar and bed it, you will get even better accuracy if you, the barrel and your cartridges are up to it. But really, again, who cares? :)

[Luke45]

Foxx- thats what i figured about the bottom metal! i was just throwing the old 721 as a conversation peice, that old guns been in the back of my truck in 95 degree heat, and elk hunting soaking wet in 33 degree sleet, dropped on rocks, ect and the poi never changed so i never messes eith it, it just seems indistrucatable. i obviosuly do believe that bedding will help pretty much all circumstances! ive just been contemplating about pillar bedding one of my savages lately, one has all metal bottom metal and i glass bed the action, trying to decide weather its worth pillar bedding or not(laminate stock).

[Remingtonman]

I cut the pillars to length a little long with a hack saw. Then I grind them with a bench grinder or dremel grinder. Finally, I use a flat file to get them FLAT and precisely the length I want them. I put them in place and test fit again and again until both is the height I want.

For drilling holes, I always have used a hand drill. They can be cut pretty big. In fact, they need to be big enough to allow for wiggle room and bedding material to work in and around the pillars. The holes do not have to be perfectly straight, but the pillars need to be straight when installed. Put a couple layers of painters tape around each screw so they do not touch the inside of the pillar walls. When done, the screws will align with the respective holes and the pillars will prevent the screws from compressing the stock material and the screws will not touch the pillars. Again, the holes in the stock need not be perfect, but the pillars must have a big enough inside diameter to not touch the action screws when they are installed, and the pillars should be mounted solidly into the bedding material. If the holes are "real big"and "crooked", they will be filled-n all with bedding material around the pillars and it won't matter, as long as the pillars are straight. (Imagine cementing a flag pole in the ground. Dig a deep and large hole. Fill the hole with cement and place the pole into the cement, making sure the POLE is straight. It doesn't matter if the hole was dug straight or not, if the hole is big enough to allow the pole to be positioned straight in the hole. A lot of cement around the pole, filling the hole, is not a problem.

Once the stock is drilled for the pillars and im fitting them, I am assuming that both top and bottom of pillars should be even with the top and bottom of stock, correct?

[BillPa]

I am assuming that both top and bottom of pillars should be even with the top and bottom of stock, correct?

Attach them to the action with the screws, set the action in the stock then check they're lengths. The bottom of them should be flush with the bottom of the stock.

After you happy with their lengths, attach them to the action , apply whatever goop you using to glue them in with then set the action in the stock. Having them attached to the action will one, make sure they don't move until the glue cures and two, it will eliminate any screw-action -pillars alignment problems.


Bill

[GaCop]

Years ago (1983) I picked up a used .243 M77 in a local pawn shop. When I removed the stock for a good cleaning session, I saw "Sept 1968" stamped into the barrel channel. All I did to that stock was free float the barrel and it shot lights out for me with my hand loads and would hold a 1" group out to 200 yards. I've owned a few more Rugers over the years and all those were dismal disappointments for accuracy. I sold all the Rugers I had and have never bought another. Give me a Savage any day!