In Need of Some Advice On What To Do.

[Nemesis]

I recently purchased a Savage Model 12 Barrel in .243 from member, SuperChuck here on the forum. The barrel has been sitting in my closet until I got around to putting it on something. Now comes my delima, so here goes.

I found an older Savage in .243, I'm assuming 110 in a pawn shop. This rifle has an aftermarket stainless, fluted barrel on it. I have no ideal who made the barrel as it doesn't have any lettering on it stating who the manufacture is. This is a old rifle that has the drop mag with the release button in the side of the stock. However, the mag release is gone and there is a hole in the side of the wooden stock. It will work if you stick a pen in to engage the mag release. The rifle is a non accutrigger rifle, but the trigger in it doesn't feel like a factory trigger. It's extremely light, I'm guessing around 1 to 1.5 pounds. It feels good, just very light pull on it. The rifle also has Burris bases and rings with an old Japan Tasco target scope on it that appears to work great. The price of this rifle is $399 + tax. Another person has put it in lay away but doesn't for sure if they are going to buy it or not. I'll find out tomorrow if the person is going to purchase it, than I will have the option to buy it if I want. I know nothing about this rifle and do not know how many rounds have been put through the pipe on it.

My next option is a newer 110 Savage in .243, with, at my local gun dealer. It's in like new condition as I looked at it today, and it is being held for me until I am able to find out what happens on the rifle described above tomorrow. Like stated, I already have the Model 12 barrel that has less than 500 rounds through it to go on a rifle, and I can get those changed out and head spaced locally for $30 bucks. This rifle doesn't have optics or anything, but I already have a 3x9x40 Nikon at home ready to put to use. I can get the newer Savage 110 for $329 OTD.

I'm just needed some help deciding which way I should go. The old, wooden stocked Savage missing the mag release that I know nothing about, or a newer Savage I can put my barrel on. Any information is appreciated on this decision making process.

[stomp442]

I would be inclined to go with the newer rifle just for ease of finding parts. Since the newer rifle is a 243 as well you now have a barrel to sell to put some coin back in your pocket and make the newer rifle an even better deal or buy some ammo or components with.

[Nemesis]

The newer rifle is a sporter barrel rifle. The model 12 barrel is a Varmint Contour. I should have mentioned that in my OP. I would be swapping out the barrels on the newer rifle if I purchase it.

[stomp442]

That's fine and dandy. So you will have a sporter take off to sell and recoup a little money back.

[Nemesis]

That's fine and dandy. So you will have a sporter take off to sell and recoup a little money back.

Been a long day, stomp...I know see what you were meaning with your orginal response.....

[Hotolds442]

Easy choice. Go for the newer one. Easier to get parts for (not that it needs any) and fewer unknowns. Plus you can shoot it without having to carry an ink pen around. Put the model 12 barrel on it, open the stock up to free float the barrel, and shoot like there's no tomorrow.

[Savage6x284]

I'll swim against the tide and say to get the older one.
I liked Savages more when they had more metal and less plastic on/in them.
Things like plastic magazine followers and plastic trigger guards just scream CHEAP to me.
I also like the aftermarket SS barrel, the mounts and even the Japanese made Tasco.
As for the missing button, I or any other semi-competent machinist could turn you one out of brass, steel or aluminum in 10 minutes flat.

I just see more value in the older rifle.

[handirifle]

I'll swim against the tide and say to get the older one.
I liked Savages more when they had more metal and less plastic on/in them.
Things like plastic magazine followers and plastic trigger guards just scream CHEAP to me.
I also like the aftermarket SS barrel, the mounts and even the Japanese made Tasco.
As for the missing button, I or any other semi-competent machinist could turn you one out of brass, steel or aluminum in 10 minutes flat.

I just see more value in the older rifle.

+1 for the older rifle.

Brownells would also have those parts. I would check the action screw spacing, just to make sure, it COULD be the older "J" series and finding a stock (should you want the change it) might prove near impossible. I forget the spacing measurements, but they are on this site somewhere.

[Nemesis]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm now no closer to making a decision than I was earlier...LOL. If I were to go with the older rifle, and wanted to convert it to a blind mag rifle with a aftermarket stock, how hard of a job would that be?

[foxx]

I'd go with the older, side button DBM.

Numrich has real nice oil finish walnut stocks for those side-button 110's. (long action only) Make sure it is a 110 (long action) first. .243 is a short action cartridge, so it might have a s/a action. Numrich also has the button that is missing for about $5. Most of the parts you would want for that are still avail if you dig thru their site. I am in the process of rebuilding/converting a few different 110's with blind mag over to these side-button DBM's with the walnut stocks. I really like them.

My guess is it also has a 3 screw trigger. Far superior to standard non-accutriggers and some like them better than accutriggers. Adjustable and crisp. If you think it is too light for your liking, it can be easily turned up.

If I were there, I'd grab it before you! :)

[foxx]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm now no closer to making a decision than I was earlier...LOL. If I were to go with the older rifle, and wanted to convert it to a blind mag rifle with a aftermarket stock, how hard of a job would that be?

DON"T DO THAT!!!! Look at Numrich. It's easy and beautiful, drop in stock. I think it used to be for the old 114's. And DBM is almost always better. Heck, I have some blind mags 110's I'd be happy to trade you for!

[Nemesis]

I will admit the older rifle does have a better feel to it than the newer rifle. I guess because of the wood stock and all that, and that trigger feels great. I'll probably go with the older rifle, if I have the chance to buy it. Just depends on what the other buyer, who has paid some money down on it already decides to do. He said the other day he wasn't for sure if he was going to take it or not, but rather put the money he has paid over onto something else in the shop. Hopefully I'll know by 12:00 p.m. tomorrow if I can buy the rifle or not.

Again, I don't know what barrel it is on the rifle. From looking at the crown, it looks like a Hart barrel, or at least the crown looks the same as a Hart I looked at on a .308. I don't know if multiple barrel manufactures use a similar crown or not though.

[nzshooter]

If your planning on using the barrel you bought, I would find out if it is small or large shank, and then find a rifle that has the same shank so you can just get the barrel fitted

[jonbearman]

The oddball reciever screw measurement(action screws) is 4.522 ceter to center,the longs(truelongs) from 1958 to present are 5.062 center to center.The oddball is the tough one to find a stock for,so measure it,it will be obvious.

[Nemesis]

If your planning on using the barrel you bought, I would find out if it is small or large shank, and then find a rifle that has the same shank so you can just get the barrel fitted

The barrel I have is a small shank, and I've been told the newer 110 is a small shank as well. I posed the question on whether or not the barrel I have from a Model 12 will fit the newer 110, and was told it would. Is that correct, or bad information? Was any of the .243's long shank? I was told the only Model 12's that a large shank was present on was the the LRP Savages.

As for the other rifle, if I am able to get it, which is what I'm leaning towards, and the barrel shoots well, than I won't have to change out the barrel. However, I will hang onto it just in case I want to put another .243 together in a Varmint style rifle.


The oddball reciever screw measurement(action screws) is 4.522 ceter to center,the longs(truelongs) from 1958 to present are 5.062 center to center.The oddball is the tough one to find a stock for,so measure it,it will be obvious.

Thanks for the information, jonbearman.

[foxx]

To be absolutely certain, measure the nut on the rifle if it is SHORTER than about .875, it is LARGE shank. (VERY unlikely).

Your barrel is small shank if the diameter of the threads are about 1.043.

IF both are small shank, then they are interchangeable.

[Savage6x284]

DON"T DO THAT!!!! Look at Numrich. It's easy and beautiful, drop in stock. I think it used to be for the old 114's. And DBM is almost always better. Heck, I have some blind mags 110's I'd be happy to trade you for!

Guess that's why they make different stocks because the blind magazine is by far my favorite style and DBM's are not a favorite at all for me.

[bootsmcguire]

The older 110 will be a Small Shank (same as your 243 Model 12 Barrel). The older DBM units are a little less desirable than the newer ones just because its harder to find aftermarket stocks inlet for the oldest style DBM. The button should be an easy find or easy to have made as said above should you want to retain the DBM. Switching to a Blind mag is a simple swap. Check out this article on mag changes (http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?269-How-To-Remove-Your-Blind-Mag-Body-and-Follower-(SF-and-CF)), and read the section for the Staggerfeed Magazines. It's basically that simple. Then just drop it in the blind mag stock of your choice.

Burris rings are good stuff and those older Japanese Tasco scopes are pretty darn decent. I have had 2 so far and both are clear and track well. The aftermarket barrel doesn't hurt anything either. You could sell it here in the classifieds and recoup some of your investment or keep it and try it out, if it doesn't shoot well as is you could always have it set back or rechambered to something with a larger case and have a cheap backup or wildcat barrel. I would get the older one and not worry. Most parts from current Savages will or can be made to fit the older actions, there really isn't that much difference. I personally have fit Accu-triggers to several older 110 actions, bolt heads are interchangeable as are many of the firing pin assemblies just to name a few items off the top of my head.

[Savage6x284]

The older 110 will be a Small Shank (same as your 243 Model 12 Barrel). The older DBM units are a little less desirable than the newer ones just because its harder to find aftermarket stocks inlet for the oldest style DBM. The button should be an easy find or easy to have made as said above should you want to retain the DBM. Switching to a Blind mag is a simple swap. Check out this article on mag changes (http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?269-How-To-Remove-Your-Blind-Mag-Body-and-Follower-(SF-and-CF)), and read the section for the Staggerfeed Magazines. It's basically that simple. Then just drop it in the blind mag stock of your choice.

Burris rings are good stuff and those older Japanese Tasco scopes are pretty darn decent. I have had 2 so far and both are clear and track well. The aftermarket barrel doesn't hurt anything either. You could sell it here in the classifieds and recoup some of your investment or keep it and try it out, if it doesn't shoot well as is you could always have it set back or rechambered to something with a larger case and have a cheap backup or wildcat barrel. I would get the older one and not worry. Most parts from current Savages will or can be made to fit the older actions, there really isn't that much difference. I personally have fit Accu-triggers to several older 110 actions, bolt heads are interchangeable as are many of the firing pin assemblies just to name a few items off the top of my head.

Good info here but I will point out that many of the new boltheads are not compatible with the older actions without changing the FP as well. Savage made the hole through the head smaller to increase the strength of the cross pin. This means that the newer FP needs to be used as it has a slimmer tip for passing through that smaller hole.
I will add that I heartily dislike the Accutrigger and I remove them immediately. I MUCH prefer the older three screw triggers and even prefer the much maligned two screw trigger to the Accutrigger.
I had a lightly worked two screw which was among the finest triggers I've ever used. Even when compared to a Jewell and that's pretty good company to keep.

[bootsmcguire]

Yes you may have to change your pin if you go to a newer bolt head, but not always. I have had some that work and some that don't. It seems the tolerance on the firing pin hole in the bolt head is not exactly a thing of precision so try and see before getting new parts you may not need. Like I said, most newer parts will or can be made to fit the older Savages.

As to the triggers, we all have different preferences, and I too love the 3 and 4 screw triggers and have several but I seem to be one of the few people who truly like the Accu-trigger and have had great luck tuning them down to less than 1lb. We all have our preferences but at least they can be easily fit to the older actions if one so choses.