Bluing Questions

[NOKNOT]

I have an old single shot Winchester I was going to try to re-blue. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[davemuzz]

Take a look at Brownell's web site. They have a lot of different blueing products. This one http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/16-oz-express-blue-1-sku575200016-8795-21473.aspx is likely what I will be using on my new flintlock build. Instead of heating the parts with a propane touch, I will use a heat gun. The heat gun gives a more consistent heat, plus there's no real concern about heat coloring the metal. It's been several years since I've done blueing, but I know that as long as you degrease the metal good (acetone works well) and follow the instructions, you should do fine.

Nitrate blueing salts are really great but they don't sell 'em in small amounts. Easy to work with and give great results.....but you have to part with $70 for a rather big bucket of 'em. You gotta have a lot of guns to reblue for that kind of $$$$

Dave

[NOKNOT]

Thanks Dave, do you have to get it to the bare metal or just get the oil and grease off?

[davemuzz]

It's going to be best if you get the barrel down to a consistent start point. If it's already blued, I would just Google "re-bluing a shotgun barrel" and start reading what pops up. Don't use Naval Jelly to remove existing bluing. It will work but you may screw up the job before you even start. Naval Jelly is pretty potent stuff. Sanding will work. Don't start with too heavy as that will give you some deep scratches that you may not be able to remove. I'd go with 175 or 200 to begin with and see how it works. Then work your way up to 400 or even 600 if you want. For what I've done I'm usually working with "a blank sheet" and my results have been pretty good. If you are going to "card" it and put several coats of bluing on it, make sure you wash any steel wool out with acetone so the steel wool doesn't have any oil in it.

But again, to answer your original question....a consistent "canvas" is always going to give you a better result.

Dave

[NOKNOT]

I have everything off and ready to work on the barrel except the back site. It is a Winchester model 67 and I cannot find how to remove it. The front site was dovetailed. Anyone know how? Thanks.

[NOKNOT]

My mistake, it is dovetailed, a few taps and it came right off.

Thanks again Dave. I have it down to metal, now Ill order my Bluing and tweak it until the bluing arrives.

[Blitzfike]

I've used most all of the chemicals Brownells has for bluing. The best one in my opinion for what you are doing is http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx
It is the most forgiving and requires the least prep work of them all. Stay away from brownells bluing salts unless you are prepared to go into it in a big way. They are extremely temperature sensitive and you can destroy your bluing salts bath very easily if you let the temperature vary even a few degrees. They also require a black iron tank that can't have been mig welded as the copper coating on most mig wire will destroy the salts. The Dicropan T-4 is another cold blue solution that gives a good blue. Good luck, and post pictures after you get finished.

[big honkin jeep]

I have used a Hoppes gun blue kit in the past but can no longer find them. they gave a nice rust blue finish when used with hot water.
Here is the one I prefer now, Brownells classic rust blue http://www.brownells.com/aspx/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=22820
With proper metal prep and taking your time a nice rust blue finish is absolutely stunning and much deeper than the typical cold blues.
Good luck with which ever route you take.

[NOKNOT]

Guys, you dont know how much I appreciate all your advice. One more question. I was reading where it says to put the parts in boiling water to get them hot, do you need to boil the barrel in water or can you use a heat gun to get it hot? Thanks again.

[foxx]

I've used a heat gun. Works well.

[davemuzz]

Yeah....heat gun (not a hair dryer....but a heat gun) is good. As Big Honkin Jeep stated, the Brownell's Classic rust Blue is a good product, just like the Pilkington classic rust blue, but from looking at the Brownell's site they are out of both right now. (Actually....I think they are the same product. It's just that the Brownell's is the Pilkington's under a private label. I could be wrong....but you know....)

Dave

[big honkin jeep]

I have even turned the water heater up and used very hot tap water with great results. Makes for a very large good supply on demand. Just be sure the wife and kids are gone for a while and don't forget to turn it back down well before they return so no one gets scalded.

Might want to be kinda discreet though because Wives kinda freak out sometimes about gun parts in ....The Dishwasher, The Oven, The Bathtub, The Big Soup Pot etc....
Heck they really don't like em hanging in the yard from trees, swing sets etc either.

I think Dave is right about the products being the same.

[NOKNOT]

I think I will have to go with the Express Blue #1 or Oxpho- Blue, the classic rust is still on back order. From the reviews both seem to be great products.

[NOKNOT]

Went with the Express Blue #1 and I must say I am impressed. Just blued the trigger guard, sites, and some screws and I have been well pleased so far. I probably will have to order another bottle since I knocked some over, the bad thing is shipping costs more than the bottle. Now I have ran into a problem of finding something to boil the barrel in. After its all said and done I will probably spend more tying to do it myself than if I paid to have it done, oh well.

[Tnslim]

The best stuff to remove bluing is Evaporust. I made a 4" pvc pipe with screw on end caps to hold the Evap 0 rust and it takes the metal back to new. Perfectly clean. Good stuff to remove rust and is reusable but not cheap.

[COplains]

I have a Stevens action which has the dark matte finish. Does anyone know of a bluing kit that would work on it, keep the same finish? It fits well with the stainless parts, barrel, bolt, recoil lug and barrel nut. I'd rather not go to a gloss blue finish. It has a couple scratches I would like to fix up, not really a big deal but thought if something was out there I could give it a shot. Aluma Hyde has a matte finish IIRC but I would rather use a bluing treatment. Thanks, kb

[NOKNOT]

Just about complete with my project of re-bluing my old single shot 22. Any suggestions on the bolt? Should I blue all of it, none of it, just the handle or just sand it down good with fine grit paper and leave it shiny? Thanks.

[NOKNOT]

Completed bluing both old model 67 and 68. I must say I am pleased with the results. Would post pictures but not sure how to do it. Thanks for suggesting Mark II Bluing.

[short round]

COplains, I had a mauser bead blasted & blued & it came out matte blue, the smith used the same bluing he used for polished blue. I also cold blued hand guns & the bead blasted parts came out matte.

[xj4me]

the pilkingtons rust blue was not to bad to work with and gave me great results. Heres my old westernfield my grandpa gave me...
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/ebk04/th_IMG_0114.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/ebk04/media/IMG_0114.jpg.html)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/ebk04/th_IMG_0112.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/ebk04/media/IMG_0112.jpg.html)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f95/ebk04/th_IMG_0117.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/ebk04/media/IMG_0117.jpg.html)