Did I do well on this 111 LRH in 7mm Rem Mag?

[brentwoodkris]

I heard from a friend that there was a sexy Savage LRH in 7mm Rem Mag lurking at a local pawn broker at an unbeatable price so I was compelled to check it out. After some haggling, I was able to walk away with the rifle for $400 out the door.

In my opinion, that would've been a good deal on just the rifle because it comes from the factory with the accustock w/ aluminum bedding block, muzzle brake, hinged floorplate, and adjustable comb buttstock. I think they retail for like $1100 or something.

Anyway, what made this deal GREAT is that it came with Leupold bases, Leupold rings, and a 6-18x50 Bushnell Banner optic w/ Butler Creek Flip-up lens covers. I know people will rag on the quality of the Bushnell Optic, but it will do for me in the time being.

So, tell me guys: Did I do good?!

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q751/brentwoodkris/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0861_1_zpsfqwi7ou2.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/brentwoodkris/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0861_1_zpsfqwi7ou2.jpg.html)

[COplains]

Me thinks ya dun good. Does the brake open/close? Seems to me you have a ready to rock new toy. But since your here, on this site, you must have something in mind to further drain the piggy bank. Come on....fess up!! Let me know what you think of the Banner, I've been looking at it, others like it, to make a change without a lot of cost.

[brentwoodkris]

I actually don't have anything in mind for it yet. It was a total impulse purchase that I just couldn't pass up (which is a big deal since I'm a starving JD/MBA student). I'm sure upgrades will come further on down the road, but we'll see how that goes. I initially wanted to upgrade the bolt handle and recoil lug nut/barrel nut like I did on my 10 series, but apparently the setup is entirely different for both systems. The accustock locks into the stock depth recoil lug (and I like the stock) so that doesn't seem feasible. Additionally, the way the bolt handle is attached is not similar to my 10, so I guess I'll have to do research to figure that out.

As for the brake, everything I've read is that you can open and close it, but that you don't want to operate it anywhere in between (it locks in open and closed positions?). I have no idea how to operate this brake and can't find directions how to do it either. For now it's locked in the open position and I have no clue how to open/close it.

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

I'm guessing your model 10 has a slotted screw at the end of the bolt and your new model 111 has a hex nut? You can buy a new Bolt Assembly Screw (BAS) as it's called and replace the slotted screw on the 10 to match if you like. Otherwise they disassemble exactly the same.

[brentwoodkris]

I'm guessing your model 10 has a slotted screw at the end of the bolt and your new model 111 has a hex nut? You can buy a new Bolt Assembly Screw (BAS) as it's called and replace the slotted screw on the 10 to match if you like. Otherwise they disassemble exactly the same.

My model 10 had a standard hex nut, which was easy as pie to remove. The new 111 looks more like a silver button? or something along those lines. I think I remember reading that you're supposed to push in the button to expose a hex nut, but I could be wrong. Unfortunately I haven't had a good amount of time to sit down with it and figure out how it is.

[thomae]

That "button" is the back of the firing pin. Clear the gun, make sure it is still empty, point it in a safe direction, and pull the trigger. Now you will see that button move forward enough to expose the hex socket for the allen wrench.

[brentwoodkris]

I should be slapped for not realizing that before...

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

My model 10 had a standard hex nut, which was easy as pie to remove. The new 111 looks more like a silver button? or something along those lines. I think I remember reading that you're supposed to push in the button to expose a hex nut, but I could be wrong. Unfortunately I haven't had a good amount of time to sit down with it and figure out how it is.

OK, I haven't played with one of those yet. That's got the new style firing pin set up.

[brentwoodkris]

So related question: how do I turn on/off this muzzle brake? It doesn't seem to be intuitive and I tried twisting it by hand...it isn't budging...

Basically, before I bust out the padding and my vice, surely there is some easy way to adjust it!?

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

Sounds like you have carbon buildup and need to soak/clean it to get it to move.


http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/cleaningcenterfire/

[brentwoodkris]

Sounds like you have carbon buildup and need to soak/clean it to get it to move.


http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/cleaningcenterfire/

I can't see that link at work, but last night I LIBERALLY sprayed it down with carb cleaner (the savage manual I had seen said NEVER to use oil) and that didn't do the trick.

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

TO OPEN (reduce recoil)
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. Hold the firearm in your strong (dominant) hand with the muzzle pointed forward.
2. Grasp the MUZZLE BRAKE with your other hand and twist it ¼ turn counterclockwise (you will
hear a distinct “click”).
3. To be sure the MUZZLE BRAKE is open, the holes should be perfectly lined up; allowing you
to see through them.

TO CLOSE (full recoil)
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. Hold the firearm in your strong (dominant) hand with the muzzle pointed forward.
2. Grasp the MUZZLE BRAKE with your other hand and twist it ¼ turn clockwise (you will hear a
distinct “click”).
3. To be sure the MUZZLE BRAKE is closed, the holes will not be lined up; you will not be able to
see through them.
TO CLEAN THE MUZZLE BRAKE
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. After each use, position the MUZZLE BRAKE in the closed position.
2. Liberally apply a cleaning solvent that DOES NOT contain oil (such as a brake cleaner found
in auto parts store).
3. Open and close the MUZZLE BRAKE, working the solvent into the mechanism to flush out any
residue and prevent carbon build-up.
APPLYING OIL TO THE ADJUSTABLE MUZZLE BRAKE WILL INCREASE CARBON BUILD-UP
AND MAY CAUSE THE BRAKE TO MALFUNCTION.

[brentwoodkris]

TO OPEN (reduce recoil)
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. Hold the firearm in your strong (dominant) hand with the muzzle pointed forward.
2. Grasp the MUZZLE BRAKE with your other hand and twist it ¼ turn counterclockwise (you will
hear a distinct “click”).
3. To be sure the MUZZLE BRAKE is open, the holes should be perfectly lined up; allowing you
to see through them.

TO CLOSE (full recoil)
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. Hold the firearm in your strong (dominant) hand with the muzzle pointed forward.
2. Grasp the MUZZLE BRAKE with your other hand and twist it ¼ turn clockwise (you will hear a
distinct “click”).
3. To be sure the MUZZLE BRAKE is closed, the holes will not be lined up; you will not be able to
see through them.
TO CLEAN THE MUZZLE BRAKE
BE SURE THE BOLT IS OPEN AND THERE IS NO LIVE AMMUNITION IN EITHER THE
CHAMBER OR MAGAZINE.
1. After each use, position the MUZZLE BRAKE in the closed position.
2. Liberally apply a cleaning solvent that DOES NOT contain oil (such as a brake cleaner found
in auto parts store).
3. Open and close the MUZZLE BRAKE, working the solvent into the mechanism to flush out any
residue and prevent carbon build-up.
APPLYING OIL TO THE ADJUSTABLE MUZZLE BRAKE WILL INCREASE CARBON BUILD-UP
AND MAY CAUSE THE BRAKE TO MALFUNCTION.



I'm going to do some more carb cleaner spraying and then stick it on the vice or grab opposing pairs of vise grips with pads and break this sucker loose! Thanks for the directions! Apparently Google failed in bringing me to the place that you found!

[oneissuevoter]

That's a long range hunter?

Where is the box mag?

Googled it- neat. Guess they figured it was GTG with the flush mag.

Let us know how she shoots

[brentwoodkris]

That's a long range hunter?

Where is the box mag?

I believe that the 338 Lapua is the only LRH which comes with a DBM. Also, it has a different brake from the factory as I don't think the 338's is adjustable.

[oneissuevoter]

It's still a good deal. Even if it's a Frankenstein gun. I have a mixed breed 110/116 with the brake that turns off and on. Fluted medium barrel. It shoots like a laser. Love it.

Stock is The old double magazine hunter.

Post some pics of her groups. Mine loves 140gr SMKs - enjoy it.

[brentwoodkris]

It's still a good deal. Even if it's a Frankenstein gun

LOL I took her apart and it seems like she's all OEM. No unexpected wear & tear or anything and it seems like very few shots were thrown down the tube based on the condition of the bore. The only part that was beat up was the recoil pad. I put a call into Savage yesterday and they are sending me a new one under warranty...though I'm not sure the warranty covers used guns! The rep didn't ask me if I was the original owner, and I didn't tell her I wasn't. Yay for a free replacement recoil pad!

[emtrescue6]

I believe that the 338 Lapua is the only LRH which comes with a DBM. Also, it has a different brake from the factory as I don't think the 338's is adjustable.

The rifle in the picture has a DBM.... ;)

[brentwoodkris]

The rifle in the picture has a DBM.... ;)

Last I checked Hinged floorplates /= DBM? Or am I missing something?

[brentwoodkris]

I have an out of town wedding this weekend but I'll be putting in some range time next weekend! Look forward to pics!