Numrich factory walnut stock finishing

[foxx]

Hi, guys.

I have a real nice factory walnut stock with cut checkering from Numrich. Very happy with it, but some areas are noticeably lighter in color. Actually, I would like the whole thing a bit darker. I am considering staining it a bit with Birchwood Casey Walnut stain. Then finishing with BC Tru-Oil.

1. I suppose I need to sand it down a bit to get past the original finish/sealer or else the stain will not take. Correct?

2. Will staining walnut that has already been sealed and oiled work advisable? Or, another concern, is walnut stain intended for non-walnuts? Maybe I should be satisfied with the natural walnut color? Should I not do this? Might I be better off just applying more Tru-Oil? My concern is the color is not as dark as I'd like.

Any advice is appreciated.

[RP12]

I doubt that the factory finish is Tru-oil, so that would be the first problem. If you spot finish it will most likely show where you did it. Yes you can stain walnut with walnut stain (it's just the color name) Walnut tends to have light and dark contrast to it sometimes, some like it that way, I do. If you want the whole thing darker, you will have to strip the entire stock and stain it to your liking then apply the Tru-oil.

[foxx]

It seems to be Tru-oil. Not saying it is, but it looks and feels like it. Certainly not a varnish or lacquer.
Maybe someone here knows what it is?

I don't want to lose the contrast in the grain, just even-out the overall darkness. But that is also kind of my concern.. staining something that should not need staining. OTOH, there are areas that are lighter... nothing to do with grain. It's as if handling it rubbed stain off on the left side along the action and parts of the cheek area.

When staining, I don't want to darken it so much I lose the grain.

[David_4]

I would use a stripper such as, Klean Strip Strip-X Stripper. It removes the finish and the stain, letting you start over with bare wood. Sanding is a PIA and you will still need to use a stripper if there is any checkering.

[RP12]

If you do strip it, I would still sand it with a block. You will see just how wavy the are from the factory.

[jpdown]

I have refinished several of these Savage 14/114 AC stocks. Under the clear top coat is a transparent stain to make all factory stocks look the same. If you sand through that stain to bare wood you will never get that spot to match again. Trust me. You can top coat the current finish with several coats of Tru-Oil and it should darken. Just rough up with 0000 Steel wool. That would be the first thing I would try. Do not put Tru-Oil on your checkering. Use Danish tung oil on the checkering to protect and darken without filling the checkering. This will take care of the lighter wood you are seeing in the pressed checkering. The first two pictures of a 114 AC stock from Numrich I just touched up using the methods outlined.

You will need to strip to bare wood if you want to try and stain darker. The current finish will not take stain Sanding off the thick factory finish would be a nightmare. A good paint stripper is the only practical way I've found. Protect the plastic ebony tip or the stripper will melt it. The 3rd picture is a 14 AC stock I stripped to bare wood and then stained and refinished with Tru-Oil. It brings out the true features of the walnut covered by the factory stain, but it is actually lighter than the original factory finish. So it was a lot of work for not much change in apperance.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0044_zps69808562.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0044_zps69808562.jpg.html)

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0045_zpsb1ea7218.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0045_zpsb1ea7218.jpg.html)

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0074_zpscd69395a.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/user/jpdown/media/PICT0074_zpscd69395a.jpg.html)

[foxx]

thanks, JP. This one has cut checkering and no clear topcoat.

Just an oil finish.

[jpdown]

If it is an oil finish, then I would try additional coats of Tru-Oil first. You can always go back to bare wood if you don't get the results you desire.

[jonbearman]

The lighter spots is sap wood which is closer to the bark on the logs they use.If it is a factory finish it is a 2 part catalyzed urethane that is a pain to strip. Use an old toothbrush in the checkering area to basically wash the area with stripper and wipe it off and scrub out the remaining softened finish with a soft brass brush.Dont do it hard but gently if you want the checkering to look sharp and untouched.