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joeb33050
02-09-2014, 11:13 AM
See the bootsmaguire Stuck BAS bolt assembly article on the home page, last picture.
12FV the BAS starts and screws in nicely with the cocking pin in the cocked position,. no thumb or corner or any moving it to cocked.
10 to get the BAS to start the cocking pin MUST be in the uncocked position, after starting the BAS it takes a LOT of force to move the cocking pin to cocked position, then the BAS screws in with a lot of pressure/feel.
Both bolts, in the uncocked position, both cocking pins revolve easily. The forward nut on the bolt assy is bottoming on the inside of the bolt.
My question: Is the bolt SUPPOSED to act as the 12FV, or as the 10?
Is the 10 wrong? If so, what do I need to fix it?
Thanks;
joe b.

Hotolds442
02-09-2014, 11:25 AM
I have one 10 that I can start the screw on with it cocked, and one that I cannot. I was trying to figure out the difference last night myself. Both use the exact same parts, no real difference between the two of them other than the color of the bolt handle.

thomae
02-09-2014, 12:08 PM
My guess is that it is stacked tolerances.
Some of my rifles: hard to start BAS, others are easier. They all shoot, so I'm not too worried about it.
Perhaps a different spring contract with a different manufacturer resulted in a slightly different spring constant?

fgw_in_fla
02-09-2014, 12:17 PM
All of mine be it Axis, 10 or 110, I have to decock it to get it started & locked down. After its tight, then I can cock to the bolt to install it in the action.
I can't recall working on one where I didn't have to uncock the bolt to get it back together....

bootsmcguire
02-09-2014, 01:18 PM
The first bolt I ever had to take apart (my 12FV 308) I could take the BAS in and out easily with the pin assembly in the cocked position. All the other rifles I have had, I have had to follow the steps I outlined in the above mentioned thread/article (http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?266-How-To-Remove-A-Stuck-BAS-and-Disassemble-Bolt).