couple of questions

[larr]

i have a savage target action and the screw for the accutrigger adjustment fell out and is lost, will savage sell just the screw? secondly, i had a shilen barrel installed on the action and the head-space is tight, the bolt will close kind of hard on the go gauge but it will close and of course it wont close on the no go gauge. my question is will a tight head-space hurt anything? the bolt closes easy on fire formed brass that has been neck sized and i have no problem with new fl sized brass. i would hate to mess with it because the rifle is scary accurate now but if the head-space being tight is a safety issue i will reset it. thanks in advance

[deadeye]

Call Savage and they will send you a screw.

The headspace is fine - no problems at all - in fact that is exactly what a smith shoots for.

[pdog06]

headspace is fine as mentioned above. Actually your brass should also last even longer cause it isnt growing as much due to the tighter headspace.

[larr]

thanks for the info, i will call savage about the screw. its good to know that the headspace is safe and i dont have to change the headspace on the rifle. thanks again

[larr]

i just found out something interesting, called savage for a adjustment screw on the accutrigger and was told there is none, it is a spring only that adjusts the trigger. it has threads in it for a screw. seems to me that the spring will just come loose again but if it does i found a allenhead set screw that works great.

[docsleepy]

what caliber and are you reloading?

Did you have the barrel made with a "tight neck" requiring turning the necks of your brass down, or it is factory neck, accepting as-is brass?


If the brass fits fairly "tight" then there is less "wiggle" and therefore the bullet is held in a more repeatable position from shot to shot, potentially reducing group sizes. If a case is used repeatedly at fairly "hot" powder loads, the brass will grow and eventually be relatively impossible to put back into the chamber and close the bolt. At that point, either full length or "body" resizing (using lube) is required. The trick is to reduce the diameter at the web just enough so the case fits snugly at the end of insertion into the chamber, and also reduce the length of the brass to the datum point so that the bolt will just close. In other words, to get it back from "too big" to "just able to fit snug". thousandth's of an inch make the difference here.

Some users buy shims of different thousandth's of an inch thickness to put under their body/FL die to raise it a specific amount and thereby control very accurately how much headspace they create. On my (cheap) Lee press, turning the die about 5 degrees makes a change of about .001 in the headspace, so you can start "too long" and go down bit by bit until it just fits.

If you reload, you will automatically be adjusting your brass by shooting it, and the dies, to fit your chamber. The danger would be if your chamber was way too LONG, which leads to catastrophy.

[docsleepy]

"spring come loose again"?

The spring should be long enough so that it threads down into the bar, and the top part butts up against the tang. When you turn the spring,you change its starting compression, which adjusts your trigger pull force. I don't think it should be loose in there!

gordon

[docsleepy]

good picture of the accutrigger assembly here:
http://www.shootingtimes.com/longgun_reviews/savage_0813/

where they say "adjustment screw" is really just a bit of the spring that is turned into a diameter of the screw, and can be used to turn the entire spring. Lots of people just use their fingers to turn the spring if they have the stock off.

I put in a larger hole for my rear screw so I can reach [without having to remove it from the stock] it, but with a longer tool. You can take a ball point pen, use the ink tube, cut a small notch in it with a serrated knife, and turn the screw with it. Gets aggravating if you set it too light, 'cause it will prematurely trip on you, and then you can't fire the thing (it is caught on the protection mechanism).

[Quickshot]

I bought my one Mod 12 used. It has the acutrigger, my first one was non- acutrigger. The previous owner of the acutriggered rifle had put a set screw in above the adjusting spring. I thought that was the way it came from the factory until I found out later. I did not remove it because it looks like a good idea to prevent the spring from adjusting itself during repeated use. Probably would never happen but better safe than sorry. Quick

[larr]

I bought my one Mod 12 used. It has the acutrigger, my first one was non- acutrigger. The previous owner of the acutriggered rifle had put a set screw in above the adjusting spring. I thought that was the way it came from the factory until I found out later. I did not remove it because it looks like a good idea to prevent the spring from adjusting itself during repeated use. Probably would never happen but better safe than sorry. Quick


that is what I'm going to do if the spring starts to "adjust itself " again. docsleepy, its a 222 rem. and yes i reload.i neck size the brass but when the brass needs to fl sized i have the hornady headspace gauges to adjust the die.the barrel has a factory neck that doesn't need the necks turned. the fired brass fits good.

[highlands]

hi there have a question . Purchaced a model 12vlp in 243 tried different ammo some shoot better than others pressently using 58 gr vmax groups very well however the barrel has a 1-9.25 twist does anyone know why. it seems less common I want to know if there was a specific combo for this gun .Iam not reloading yet.the gun is close to being a tack driver on factory loads but want to tighten it up a bit at a couple of hudred yards having a hard time breaking 3/4 -1inch group and i think it can do better because at 50 its constantly in the same hole. please foward this off to some if they could help thanks

[docsleepy]

I bought my one Mod 12 used. It has the acutrigger, my first one was non- acutrigger. The previous owner of the acutriggered rifle had put a set screw in above the adjusting spring. I thought that was the way it came from the factory until I found out later. I did not remove it because it looks like a good idea to prevent the spring from adjusting itself during repeated use. Probably would never happen but better safe than sorry. Quick


that is what I'm going to do if the spring starts to "adjust itself " again. docsleepy, its a 222 rem. and yes i reload.i neck size the brass but when the brass needs to fl sized i have the hornady headspace gauges to adjust the die.the barrel has a factory neck that doesn't need the necks turned. the fired brass fits good.


sounds like you've got it figured out. I probably prattled on more than necessary. Wish you good luck with the trigger! I'm going to take the plunge and get SSS to time/true/evolution trigger. Lots of projects and fun to do, with a savage!