spring mod

[cranebird]

I changed out the original spring with a spring from a ball point pen. The lightest spring I've been able to find is 2 lb 10 ounces on a trigger spring scale. I'm thinking it's no longer the spring tension issue but the tension of the overall trigger design. I tried shortening the spring and it wouldn't hold the cocking mechanism until I stretched it out but it didn't pull any lighter on the scale so I replaced the shortened spring with another out of the ball point pen pack to be safe. I'm happy with the results over the stock tension but was wondering if anyone else had better luck ?

[82boy]

I changed out the original spring with a spring from a ball point pen. The lightest spring I've been able to find is 2 lb 10 ounces on a trigger spring scale. I'm thinking it's no longer the spring tension issue but the tension of the overall trigger design. ... I'm happy with the results over the stock tension but was wondering if anyone else had better luck ?

That's about as good as it gets, you answered your own question. The only way to go lower, is with serious modification, or change out the trigger for one of a different design.

[RP12]

You "must" have spring tension for preload on the trigger, that is a given. You can take the spring completely out (FOR TESTING ONLY WITH A SAFETY CHECKED AND UNLOADED RIFLE) to see what the weight is. That will tell you your absolute minimum pull weight with the geometry and or friction you have in that particular trigger set up. If you want it lower than that you will have to swap out triggers or modify the existing geometry.

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

I did it on my Accutrigger and got it down to just a hair over 2 lbs and have not had any issues so far.

[cranebird]

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to leave it where it is since the next steps are beyond my abilities.
Thanks again

Ivan

[cranebird]

I did it on my Accutrigger and got it down to just a hair over 2 lbs and have not had any issues so far.

Yeah, the accutrigger is a better system. I am glad to see they started putting them in the Axis. All I have to do is convince the wife that I need the one with an accutrigger........:cool:

[82boy]

Why not put an accu-trigger in the gun you got?

[cranebird]

Why not put an accu-trigger in the gun you got?

I don't think it is worth the price of a accutrigger replacement. I modified my existing system with a ball point pen spring and came ounces away from where the above persons trigger pull weight is at with adjusting his accutrigger. It was less than a $1 to mod it after you break down the cost of the pack of pens and I still have a spare spring after messing one up by cutting it too short. I have been watching used accutriggers go on Ebay, they are running higher than I would have ever guessed. One might better buy a brand new Basix than a used accutrigger from Ebay. I am not unhappy with the trigger, I was just trying to get an opinion to better than what I have, if it were easily remedied. Thanks again for the help. This site is great.:cool:

[mikec1911]

Polish it....

[Elgin]

Ebay is a the most expensive place to buy a used accu-trigger. The classifieds are the way to go. I've picked up all my accu-triggers from $20-$50 on this and other forums. The $15 for the paid membership here pays for itself in no time.

[n4ue]

The 'best' way to modify the Axis trigger (IMHO), since I done all 8 of mine, is as follows:
Remove the factory spring
Replace it with a 10-24 Allen setscrew 3/4" long
Get a spring that slips over the setscrew, it will be captured by the setscrew and the dished part of the trigger

Both the screw and a nice long, light spring that you can trim for the desired pull are available at True Value for less than $1, total.
Not only will you have a light, safe trigger, you can adjust the screw to eliminate all over travel.
I also have 4 M12s with Accutriggers and both myself and my shooting buddies prefer the modified Axis triggers to the Accutrigger.....

To each his own, I guess....
ron

[cranebird]

Polish it....

I did that and used superlube Teflon grease.

[cranebird]

Ebay is a the most expensive place to buy a used accu-trigger. The classifieds are the way to go. I've picked up all my accu-triggers from $20-$50 on this and other forums. The $15 for the paid membership here pays for itself in no time.

Finally gave in and surrendered.It is worth joining,I am in the process of getting a accutrigger as well. Thank you .

[cranebird]

The 'best' way to modify the Axis trigger (IMHO), since I done all 8 of mine, is as follows:
Remove the factory spring
Replace it with a 10-24 Allen setscrew 3/4" long
Get a spring that slips over the setscrew, it will be captured by the setscrew and the dished part of the trigger

Both the screw and a nice long, light spring that you can trim for the desired pull are available at True Value for less than $1, total.
Not only will you have a light, safe trigger, you can adjust the screw to eliminate all over travel.
I also have 4 M12s with Accutriggers and both myself and my shooting buddies prefer the modified Axis triggers to the Accutrigger.....

To each his own, I guess....
ron

Yep, It seemed to have worked for me as well. Thank you !

[cranebird]

I took a picture of my spring mod. You can see the ball point pen spring screws down into the threaded hole. The problem is either I needed a 10-24 setscrew in the bottom of it or the wire was too thin. The spring collapsed under tension later on down the road and sometimes it would cock and fire and other times it wouldn't stay cocked but if you cocked the handle again , it would fire. I installed the setscrew as n4ue suggested with a 3/16" .023 wire diameter spring cut .600" and twisted down in the threaded hole with the setscrew underneath to control the height and tension, it seems to work very well for me. One thing I did was put the spring in so the ringed top piece is in the bottom so when you adjust the setscrew that it would push evenly on the spring when adjusting the tension. when backing the adjustment out apply tension so the spring readjust down to the setscrew height.

http://s20.postimg.org/ans51qwrx/DSCN2005.jpg

Here is with the light wire spring that failed on me over a period of time. I noticed the wire pushed through the bottom of the yellow stuff so possibly all it needed was a setscrew under it but the sear load tension was a lot for that spring.

http://s20.postimg.org/ss07ji0rx/DSCN2022.jpg

Here is the heavier .023 wire spring installed. The tension is better, it works noticeably better than it did with the lighter wired spring you can feel the difference when the bolt is cycled.

[n4ue]

Cranebird, nice picture! Now, scrape out the yellow thread locker and replace it with a 10-24 (long) setscrew. Not only will it ensure the spring won't jump out, you can easily adjust it to remove all the over travel.
The springs I get from my True Value store are trimmed to give the amount od trigger pull desired.
Lastly, I put a minute of WS2 based grease on the sear. This has the lowest known friction properties......

ron

[cranebird]

I've always got to go the long around , slow learning curve or whatever you want to call it.I can't change it so I just gotta let it go and keep on moving forward. Listen to n4ue. His system works although I went a slightly different route and got good results. The reason was I couldn't find a suitable diameter spring to slid somewhat snug over the set screw but I did find a 3/16" spring that would thread into the hole and I added a 1/4" long 10-24 setscrew underneath it. It seems to be fine but hopefully you can find the right spring in your area that slides over the setscrew as he mentioned.

[Hotolds442]

This time test the function of the rifle before introducing ammo into the equation. Cock the bolt, and thump the butt of the rifle on the floor to make sure the sear holds. Slam the bolt home on closing and make sure the sear holds. Close the action, switch the rifle to safe, and pull the trigger to make sure the sear holds. Release the safety and make sure the sear holds. If all of those tests check out, then you can consider your adjustments safe. If any of the tests fail, go back to the drawing board and start over. Always do a function check without ammo whenever you make adjustments to the firing mechanism of any gun.

[cranebird]

This time test the function of the rifle before introducing ammo into the equation. Cock the bolt, and thump the butt of the rifle on the floor to make sure the sear holds. Slam the bolt home on closing and make sure the sear holds. Close the action, switch the rifle to safe, and pull the trigger to make sure the sear holds. Release the safety and make sure the sear holds. If all of those tests check out, then you can consider your adjustments safe. If any of the tests fail, go back to the drawing board and start over. Always do a function check without ammo whenever you make adjustments to the firing mechanism of any gun.

Good info here provided by Hotolds442. Thanks.

[cranebird]

Well the .023 spring seems like the sure cure for me. I cleaned the excess grease off and slid a #13 Viton o ring over the stock screws because they bottomed out from my taking it apart so often. I measured the slop that allows the trigger to wiggle which was .032. When I get back on the laser machines, I'll program a stainless steel washer to remedy that. After all this, I think I have sourced a accutrigger and I intend on buying a Boyd's stock for it this coming week. I'm not sure I'm going to install the accutrigger in this one or wait until the 22-250 Axis follows me home.