bedding question; savage 111

[dnunn]

I recently bought a savage model 111 in 30-06, lefthand bolt, from a local owner. The gun seems practically new, in excellent condition, with a 'hardwood' (cheap) stock. I noticed a slight vibration/resonance in stock and thought it needed some adjustment of the forearm and trigger guard screws.

Both were fairly loose, so I tightened reasonably (although I'm not sure how tight they should be). With both screws tight, the bolt became very stiff. So, I backed off a little, and it functioned normally again. The barrel appears to be properly free floated, so, next, I removed the stock to look at the bedding.

I was kind of surprised to find that there doesn't appear to be any indications of pressure at the two bearing locations. The wood is fairly soft (compared to walnut, etc), and I expected to find indentations or signs of compression, etc. Is this normal?

This makes me think the forward lug might not be making proper contact with the stock, especially since the bolt action stiffened up when I tighten the forearm screw. Can you insert a metal shim to ensure proper contact?

Or is the solution simply to upgrade to decent stock? I'd be interested in your thoughts.

[tacticalj]

upgrade the stock, then bed it. Check your screws to make sure that there not to long and making contact with your bolt. The screws are either making contact with your bolt or by tightening them, you inducing stress somewhere. I would simply replace the stock and then bed the new stock. My .02$

[dnunn]

I think you right on it, on 2 counts. A new stock is the better solution, but a left hand action has its limitations. Plus, this gun might be the Stevens model (although it is not labeled as such). No accu-trigger and metal finish and blue is low quality. The action is silky smooth, so maybe potential for a project gun.

I checked the screws to see if they might have been switched previously--no way, they only fit in proper orientation. However, it is the rear screw is the problem. When it is tightened (reasonably), it interferes with the bolt action. I think there is a simple remedy with a shim/washer, or in the worse case, shortening the screw slightly. (Of course, this 'screw' is actually a fine thread bolt.)

Thanks

[pdog06]

tighten the action down while you have the bolt out of it, and see if the rear screw is too long. You'll be able to look in the rear of the action and see the rear screw hole. If it is above being flush it is too long and will just need shortened.

If it is not too long then your problem is gonna be that the rear tang is bottoming out before the actions tightens against the rear pillar, and it is binding te action. When this happens the bolt will be hard to operate also. If it is this one then you need to bed the action into the stock.

[dnunn]

I think I found the problem. The trigger guard (plastic!) is cracked around the screw hole, allowing the screw to seat deeper. That allows the screw to interfere with bolt.

Thanks for your help.

[ellobo]

dnunn,
Boyds has a JRS stock, walnut or laminate that will fit your action and I think the bolt groove is not cut so you can cut it for a left hand bolt. Well under $100, just needs sanding a oiling the stock. I have several of them and like them. Exellent plain hunting stocks whicis what I think you would like.

El Lobo

[357 magnum]

The trigger guard is in Brownells and offered in steel. As for the stock, a stock is a stock. The only difference is wether your aftermarket is a pillar bedded stock, if not keep what you got. Install pillars in that walnut, or bed it out, or both!!! And you will have the best shooting stock for that gun. Unless Boyds or others are going to set it up for that gun. As all guns are mass produced the dimensions are not the same rifle to rifle. And as you have a wood stock you do not have to suffer flexing, as with synthetics. And you are less likely to spilt a solid wood vs laminate. The laminate has less swelling in the humidity, but 4 to 6 coats of urethane and problem solved. Pillaring and bedding it your self will bring out the best in accuracy in that gun. As you can tune it for consistency in vibration and oscillation. Case and point( I have 2 mauser 98's one is bedded and floated and the other has full length bedding. First try the bed and float, if you have a consistent flyer ( Hand loads are a must here) or if it touches 2 and touches 2 a inch away, then start trying different bedding techniques until the problem is solved. Tuning a gun to it's harmonics is the key to a average gun or a great shooting gun.

[dnunn]

I thought you might be interested in an update:

I replaced the trigger guard with a metal one--a $20 simple fix. I ordered bedding materials, but out of curiosity, I re-assembled the gun, along with new scope mounts, and took it out for testing. I used some seller-supplied reloads to sight in (risky, I know), with crappy results (4-6" groups at 100yds). Then I remembered that the seller also gave me a partial box of Remington factory ammo, 180gr sp corelokts. The first 3-shot group missed the target paper. Luckily I had posted the target on a large piece of clean cardboard, and there was a nice 3-shot group, 1" c-c., more than a foot high! I cranked in all that adjustment, and the next 3 shots hit on the edge of the bullseye, again right at 1" grouping.

Maybe bedding can wait. I've got to get this new bag of brass prepped and loaded!