first Savage, first build

[the Ranger]

hey, new here, starting the search for a left hand, magnum cal gun that will be the basis for my build. the gun will have a 26" sporter weight barrel in .264 Win mag (probably a McGowen). one question I had is that I see that at least for the DBM's Savage uses 3 different mags, (long standards), (6.5x284, 7mag and 338mag) and one just for 300 win mag. given that the .264 is the same length as the 7 and 338, would there be any issues or extra work if my donor rifle is a 300win? does the same hold true for a hinged floor plate gun? also since I will have the thing torn down I will be doing some enhancements, bedding the action and lapping the lugs. would an aftermarket trued recoil lug and trued barrel nut be worth doing on a hunting rifle? also any tips on other cheap tricks I can do in the process that may be worth while?

[Hotolds442]

You can use either with the 264. Starting with a 300WinMag would not be an issue. If I was pulling the barrel off, I'd add a precision recoil lug whether it was a hunting rifle or not. The trued barrel nut is a good idea too. The only other thing I'd do is to set the trigger around 2 pounds, and you should be golden.

[the Ranger]

thanks for the input

[the Ranger]

can a barrel swap be accomplished properly without an action wrench?

[Hotolds442]

Yes. You can do it with a barrel wrench. After the first time the nut is removed, you can usually do a swap using only a barrel nut wrench. The factory torque on the barrel nut is overkill. Mongo not know own strength.

[Mrt88]

I've read a big thumb wrench on the recoil lug and a barrel nut wrench can get it done .. I have not done it tho

[the Ranger]

an adjustable/crescent wrench?

[FW Conch]

"an adjustable/crescent wrench"-not recommend! If you do a search on this site you can find all kinds of ideas for removing a barrel the first time. I don't know what you have available to you "shop" wise, but I have made oak blocks, drilled to the diameter of the action, and clamp it in a bench vise. I prefer to hold the action, rather than the barrel, because the action is strait, whereas the barrel is tapered, and I get a better grip. I have found that "string line chalk" works as well as "rosin" to help with the grip. Some barrels come off fairly easy, others are more difficult and require more tactics, as can be seen by reading the experiences of the members here. It somewhat depends on your mechanical ability at this time. Take your time, and if you hit a snag, let us know and you will be helped!

Good Luck........Jim

[fgw_in_fla]

Would this be a good time for a quirky saying?
Like "don't be a fool, use the right tool"

You know right now you're going to do a barrel swap. And you're going to find out it won't stop there.
Next thing you know, you have 7 different caliber barrels in the safe & thinking about which one to swap out to next.
We've all seen this too many times. It's happened to most, if not all of us. Even the guys that say "I'll be OK with the new barrel after I change out the old one."
Good luck with your project.

[FW Conch]

"fgw" is right on, of course. I think if I were an "apartment dweller", or "shopless", or "tool deprived", I would go with an action wrench, and of course, a barrel nut wrench, right off the bat. But I have always had a shop and tools available to me, so I could improvise with what I had, etc. Just depends on your set up and skill level. An action wrench is a great tool, but as for me, I have been able to defer that cost to other items further up the priority list! ;-))

[the Ranger]

I was just trying to confirm what Mrt88 meant by "thumb wrench"?

I'm an auto mechanic so I have no shortage of tools or knowhow, access to about anything but a mill or lathe. I like the idea of making vice blocks out of hardwood, I can do that.

[Luke45]

all that is necessary is a barrel nut wrench and a good vise if your not worried about tearing up the donor barrel. Just clamp the barrel in a pipe vise with some leather around it and loosen the nut with the barrel nut wrench. if it wont come off, heat the nut slightly and put constant pressure on the barrel nut wrench and tap it with a hammer

[FW Conch]

OK "Ranger"! Now we're talkin. I guess a "thumb wrench" would be a crescent or pipe wrench? But you don't have to go there. If you like the wood block idea, you can improve on it by drilling a tight hole in the wood next to the recoil lug, and screw in a 1/4x24socket head cap screw,so that it sits tight against the recoil lug, preventing the action from turning. But if you get a really tight nut, just remember, the little alignment bump on the lug can only handle so much pressure. Another thing that can be done, more difficult, drill a hole in the wood that corresponds to the front action screw hole, and put a 1/4x28 screw through the wood into the action hole, again preventing the action from turning. It's all good, it's all fun.... You'll getter done! Good Luck;-).....Jim

[Mrt88]

A thumb wrench is a adjustable wrench that is usually adjusted by your thumb hence calling it a thumb wrench... Crescent is a name brand of a adjustable wrench I work in industeral steam fitting and I am a ticketed welder and see many different brands of adjustable "thumb" wrenches and when we go to our tool crib we don't say hey they can u give me one of them crescent wrenches or westwards you say adjustable

sorry for confusing everyone and I didn't say to use that method I said I had read that and wasn't sure about it

[the Ranger]

sorry, the term "thumb" wrench was not familiar to me. might be a regional thing. I own multiple brands of "Vise-grip" pliars also, only half are truly Vise-grip brand but some things just become senonimous with a brand. same with "channel Lock".

[Mrt88]

Channel lock for me is a C clamp lol everyone has their differences and brought up by people who call things by different names that's all no biggie

[the Ranger]

well I was at the local Scheel's store the other night and saw that they had a 116 FLHSS in 300win on clearance for $649, I couldn't take it anylonger,:yield: I went and bought her last night.

must...resist....shooting....before....new...barre l comes:boom::nono:

[jonbearman]

Buy the northland shooters supply wrench and it is cut with a relief for the lug,and get his barrel nut wrench.Since you are a mechanic you know the value of tools for the right job. Oak blocks may work but I wouldnt count on it,go with the correct reciver wrench and nut wrench and you are set for life.If you dont want to leave reciever wrench marks on the reciever use the nylon strapping material they use these days and cut 2 strips slightly shorter than the diameter so it doesnt bunch up and add chalk or rosin as I do and tighten it up snug,dont kill it but just good and snug and use your nut wrench with a steel hammer to shock the barrel nut which the factory puts on way too tight.When retightening the new nut or original tighten it tight by hand and use a deadblow hammer to give a medium rap with that hammer and its good.It doesnt have to be 100 foot pounds to make it safe.