Switch barrel

[Luke45]

Anyone had any luck using a savage as a switch barrel? As in having one action/scope/stock and having 3 or 4 barrels? Im thinking about it but not sure if POI would dramatically shift while changing barrels back and forth or what. I know you could swap barrels out quickly, just not sure if its worth it. anyone?

[Hotolds442]

Easily done, however you've got to have a scope base and rings that will return to zero every time since you have to remove the scope to swap barrels, unless you have a bore sighter.
I have an index mark on my barrel nut that lines up with an index mark on my action so the barrel nut is always tensioned the same. I have barrels in 243, 308, and 22/250 that have another index mark on them, which lines up with the barrel nut index mark.
I also use a bore sighter after each barrel swap, and set the scope up to each barrel via an excel spreadsheet that shows the zero point for that particular barrel. I'm within 1/8"@100 after a barrel swap.

[fgw_in_fla]

Is this a trick question?
Barrel switching on a Savage?

No.... We don't switch barrels. Much.

/sarc off/

[Luke45]

Is this a trick question?
Barrel switching on a Savage?

No.... We don't switch barrels. Much.

/sarc off/

i mean a swap between calibers using the same action/scope.

[fgw_in_fla]

I've been doing barrel swaps between calibers for several years & have no troubles to report other than needing to re-zero my scopes & the occasional load retune.

When I get bored or tired of a caliber, its on to the next one. I keep notes & info on proven loads & start from there.

[missed]

I have shot one cal, swapped at the range and swapped back with no issues. I use the same go gauge with same shim behind them and have no change.

[Luke45]

I have shot one cal, swapped at the range and swapped back with no issues. I use the same go gauge with same shim behind them and have no change.

What type of shims do you use? i just use a go gauge and then put a piece of notebook paper behind to make it a no-go and never had an issue. Is that to hilbilly or should it get a shim or a no-go if i do it more often?

[missed]

I have a piece of shim stock that I use. I just want to make sure it is the same every time.

[Hotolds442]

What type of shims do you use? i just use a go gauge and then put a piece of notebook paper behind to make it a no-go and never had an issue. Is that to hilbilly or should it get a shim or a no-go if i do it more often?
If you need some .004 shim stock, let me know. I can throw some in the mailbox.

[J.Baker]

I would first suggest you seriously look at what your plans are and how you plan to use said rifle and barrels.

Swapping barrels has kind of died off in recent years - mainly because for what you will spend on a quality aftermarket barrel you can just buy another rifle. Also, those who have spent any amount of time doing it know that it gets old fast and in the end you end up building dedicated guns for each caliber anyway.

The only practical applications of a switch-barrel gun I really see are one of the following...

1. You currently have a varmint rifle and would like to use it for a week or two a year for deer hunting or some other bigger game. In this case you could pick up a factory take-off barrel for $150 or less in a suitable caliber and be good to go. Additional parts needed would depend on the caliber your existing rifle is setup for. (even this one's dying off quite fast as most guys will just go buy an Axis in .308 or .30-06 for deer hunting and such).

2. You routinely like to experiment or play with new cartridges and/or wildcats cartridges. Buying a dedicated gun chambered for a new cartridge you just want to play with for a few months doesn't make much sense, and you'd still have to buy a custom barrel for any wildcat chambering.

[joeb33050]

I bought barrels here for my M10 308 and Striker in 22-250, 243, 308 sporter, 25-06 and others. Switched many times including 26" barrels on Striker. This all to learn how to switch Savage barrels and about headspace. When done I sold the barrels here, bought a 12FV in 223 to try to get cast bullets to shoot. That was a year ago, failed miserably. Realized that I haven't shot the M10 308 in a year, while working on the 223.
So, I recently bought 25-06, 22-250 and 223 barrels here, looking for 243 and 7-08 and ??, am going to sell the 12 FV and have 1 M10 rifle with many barrels. ( I have a 223 bolt face from the first experiment.)
This new experiment is to see if it's practical to live with 1 rifle many barrels. I think it makes sense, at least for me.
joe b.

[Hammer]

.

I've heard rumors about this swap barrel thing, but don't know much about it.

How does it work ?

.

[Hotolds442]

It's mechanical. Threads on barrel go into threaded receiver. Held together with a nut. Another nut behind the stock.

[Luke45]

It's mechanical. Threads on barrel go into threaded receiver. Held together with a nut. Another nut behind the stock.

we are the nuts haha. And thanks for the offer of the shim stock, i found some. notebook paper has worked fine for me, but if im going to be swapping stuff out alot i will need more precision, Thanks!

[FW Conch]

"missed", I missed something? If you have the "GO" gauge, why do you need the shim stock to insure repeat ability?

Thanks.....Jim ;-)"

[BillPa]

"missed", I missed something? If you have the "GO" gauge, why do you need the shim stock to insure repeat ability?

Thanks.....Jim ;-)"

Because a GO is use to set/check the chamber length is "Equal To or Greater Than" is length. A No GO, "Less then" it's length.

For example, the 308 Win (and family) GO length is 1.630" If the action can be locked to battery "without force" the chamber length will be equal to or greater than 1.630". The NO GO gauge length is 1.634". If the action cannot be locked to battery on it the chamber is something less than 1.634", 1.633" or less.

If the GO is shimmed .002" to be used as the NO GO and the action cannot be locked to battery on it then the chamber must be something less than 1.632", 1.631" or less.



Bill

[FW Conch]

Thanks Bill Pa, but I fully understand Go/No Go, but I achieve that and repeat ability with the GO gauge only. It's a matter of "feel" I was taught in Machine Shop in 1965. The "feel" one needs to understand in order to use a Micrometer or other precision measuring instruments. But, I don't "switch barrels" in the context of the OP's question-go to the range, shoot a chambering, switch barrels to another chambering, expecting to have precision accuracy right off the bat. "BUT" if I did that often, and if I felt that "No Go" was important, then I "would" invest in a "No Go Gauge", rather than use scotch tape, "or a shim". ;-) Anyway, now I understand the statement.

Thanks to All ;-) ....... Jim