Milling out slot for scope base on NSS action wrench

[missed]

I have a NSS action wrench, I hate removing my scope bases....I am thinking about taking the mill to my wrench for a slot for the base but I cant make up my mind. What do yall think?

[Westcliffe01]

I'm in agreement with your sentiment. The bolt in the action screw hole is doing most of the work and it will still clamp the action fine if notched for the rail.

[missed]

I don't put the barrel nuts on very tight so I am not too worried about it on ones I have put on. Its the factory ones that Mongo installed.

[1.618]

I don't put the barrel nuts on very tight so I am not too worried about it on ones I have put on. Its the factory ones that Mongo installed.

I get the feeling that no one puts the nut on too tight when they put an aftermarket barrel on.


Why is that? Is it better without the nut too tight? And if so, why does Mongo put them on so tight at the factory?

[missed]

I have never had one come loose. The spec on them is 35 ftlb iirc. which is not very much. I do not know whey there on so tight from the factory. It could be some of the blueing chemicals getting them stuck, but I see no reason to have them that tight. I know some benchrest guys that are running shouldered barrels that just put them on by hand only. With big fine threads there really not going anywhere.

[Westcliffe01]

I give my barrel nut wrench a rap with a small hammer when I have it good and hand tight (have not used a torque wrench on it). My barrels have all shot good too. I assume that if you do a "real" multi barrel rifle, and are constantly swapping barrels, then it would be a lot more important to get the tension on the nut repeatable every time, so you don't need to re-tune your handloads all over again.

[jbjh]

I've had the very same thought, but worried about not supporting the action fully and warping it, or putting too much pressure on the base and damaging the screws. You could call and ask Jim what he thinks about the idea

[Hotolds442]

It could be some of the blueing chemicals getting them stuck, but I see no reason to have them that tight.
There are no bluing salts on a stainless assembly, yet they're still Mongo tight. My guess is that long before the switch barrel game was played on a large scale, Savage developed an SOP for barrel nut torque specs and it's never been updated. The last thing they would have wanted was for someone's barrel to loosen up to the point of having unsafe headspace riding around on the floor of their crummy.

[1.618]

My guess is that long before the switch barrel game was played on a large scale, Savage developed an SOP for barrel nut torque specs and it's never been updated. The last thing they would have wanted was for someone's barrel to loosen up to the point of having unsafe headspace riding around on the floor of their crummy.

That sounds plausible, thanks.

Sorry if I derailed your thread, Missed...I did not intend to!

[missed]

It's probably the attorneys that made them go mongo tight.

[FW Conch]

I know from experience, in some cases, it's thread locker.

[SFLEFTY]

I think aircraft spec is good--tighten until it squeaks, then another half turn until it smokes. (I'm sorry, I escaped from my caretakers again!)
OK, back under control and medicated, I think someone even sold their wrench recently here and said it was modified in that way.

[missed]

Hmm hopefully they will see this...I just bought a wrench off one of the guys here. I kept trying to get some time on the machines but it just has not happened so I bought one hard to beat for the price too. I leave for a horse clinic tomorrow to get ready for the championship show so I wont have time for another couple weeks to make some chips.



I think aircraft spec is good--tighten until it squeaks, then another half turn until it smokes. (I'm sorry, I escaped from my caretakers again!)
OK, back under control and medicated, I think someone even sold their wrench recently here and said it was modified in that way.

[snowgetter1]

I use the regular wrench and an action wrench to remove factory nuts. After that my scopes stay on and I use the cut out wrench. My barrels are all tightened to a specific torque value of... Hold action in my left hand, wrench on nut, rubber mallet in right hand, and two whacks to the wrench. Not sure how many pounds it is, but it is tight yet can be removed easily.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb465/snowgetter1/image_zpsee1f1679.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/snowgetter1/media/image_zpsee1f1679.jpg.html)

[BillPa]

Been swapping barrels that way for years, but using a rear entry action wrench....
http://i34.tinypic.com/21omvia.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/20iwen6.jpg

Bill

[missed]

I have been thinking about building a spanner wrench style for the quick swaps. I have some a2 at the house I can carve on for that.

[missed]

That was my other thought was to sell this wrench and get a rear entry wrench or build one. Where did you get yours? This is the one reason I have wanted to build a chassis system that was very fast barrel swap friendly. Shouldered barrels would be easier but since I don't have a lathe I don't want to deal with them.

[BillPa]

That was my other thought was to sell this wrench and get a rear entry wrench or build one. Where did you get yours?


I made that one for my Rem switch barrel guns many moons ago. Its a piece of 5/8 bar stock with a slot milled to accept a a piece of 3/8" flat stock tig'd to make the lugs. The lugs are 1.125" long. The drive is 9/16" 12 pt socket bored for an interference fit on the bar, pressed in then tig'd it to use a 1/2" drive T handle.

Don't sell your clamp on wrench, you'll still need it to undo Mongo's work! I only use the rear entry wrench and open ended spanner to swap post factory installed barrels.

Bill

[missed]

Thanks Bill!