My first day at the range.

[Idahokid]

http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y479/Idahokid161/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/e137fa87-3f3a-4204-b636-73c644457672_zps450b5721.jpg (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Idahokid161/media/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/e137fa87-3f3a-4204-b636-73c644457672_zps450b5721.jpg.html)I just bought this Savage Friday night at Cabelas.I shot outside yesterday but I wanted a fair evaluation.http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y479/Idahokid161/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/913eca4f-4df8-41e5-9e9a-5ce445fbedef_zps29e9e9ed.jpg (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Idahokid161/media/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/913eca4f-4df8-41e5-9e9a-5ce445fbedef_zps29e9e9ed.jpg.html)These first two targets where at 25 yards.I have never adjusted a scope before but did pretty good.Just a few clicks at a time.Then I moved to the 50 yard range and kinda felt I was starting all over.I just kept clicking until I got in range again.http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y479/Idahokid161/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/2aee527c-72ee-40e5-aabb-2517e34178a6_zpsaed7906a.jpg (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Idahokid161/media/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/2aee527c-72ee-40e5-aabb-2517e34178a6_zpsaed7906a.jpg.html)The last two shots,The shot in the green I know I jerked a little.The one in the orange I really took my time.I get a little antsy before I pulled the trigger at times.I just breathed and relaxed and talked my way threw it.And it was my last bullet.lolhttp://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y479/Idahokid161/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/WP_20140119_0011_zpsf759cd89.jpg (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Idahokid161/media/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/WP_20140119_0011_zpsf759cd89.jpg.html)http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y479/Idahokid161/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/WP_20140118_0011_zpseeaef309.jpg (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Idahokid161/media/Savage%20111%207mm%20Magnum/WP_20140118_0011_zpseeaef309.jpg.html)One thing I did notice is that when I looked threw the scope,the target was blurry.Im not sure if that's normal or not.Its a Cabelas Pine Ridge 3x9.I could take it back and see what they will do for me.

[243LPR]

You probably need to loosen the lockring on the lens closest to your eye and adjust it until the crosshairs are nice and sharp. I take it this was a package deal? Looks like a long action,what cartridge are you shooting?

[Idahokid]

I just figured out how to adjust the scope.I did just as you said.I loosened the locking ring and focused it.Looks a lot better.The rifle is a 2003 model 111 in 7mm mag.Cabelas must have put the scope on.Its there Pine Ridge brand.It must have had another brand scope on it at one time.It doesn't have sights on it.I need to try the 100 yard range next.Its really a nice shooting rifle.Feels good and sturdy.One thing I noticed was when I was putting the scope bikini on before putting it away.The scope was loose.I could hear it wiggle but couldn't see it move.I tightened it and will see what happens at the range next week.

[Westcliffe01]

The scope "clicks" should be 1/4" at 100 yards. So if you are 1" left at 50 yards that would be 2" at 100 yards = 8 clicks (2=8x1/4) Right. The direction indicates which way you want the bullet impact to go on the target (left/right up/down).

Ammo is expensive so don't waste it dialing your scope in a few clicks at a time. Most of the time you can get there in about 3 shots once you have a little practise.

Take the scope and base off before your next trip to the range. Degrease the scope base and receiver with alcohol of brake cleaner, then put blue loctite under the scope base and quickly install it back on the receiver. Let the loctite cure up, then remove 1 screw at a time and apply blue loctite to the base threads and screw the screws back in and be careful not to overtighten them. If you do this, then the loctite will be carrying most of the load and not the screws. I would do this a few days before going back to the range and leave the rifle in a warm place so the loctite can fully cure.

Then when you put the scope back on and get it positioned the way it was (correct eye relief distance) and the reticle plumbed, I would loctite the ring screws one at a time. Again don't overtighten. The rings and bases that are part of the package are not the best quality and it is easy to strip or shear off the screws.

When you are done, you can bore sight the rifle by placing it on an adjustable rest or in a gun vice (something that will hold the rifle steady without needing any help). Remove the bolt completely and align the bore with a recognizable aiming point that is at least 25 yards away. 50 yards is even better. Sight through the bore of the barrel and center your aiming point in the bore. Then without touching the rifle, look through the scope. What you want are the cross hairs pointing at your aiming point. Ignore the direction indications on the turrets (since it is reveresed for bore sighting) just rotate the turret to get the crosshair to the same aiming point as you have the bore pointed at.

Now when you go to the range you will just have a small correction to make to be dialed in. I have bore sighted using a target at 160 yards, but at that distance one has to aim for the top of the target after bore sighting for the center to get a hit on the target and then correct from there.

[Idahokid]

The range I went to had a few of the rifle vises you could shoot from.I should try one of those.My goal is to take out the human factor to sight it in.Then I know how much I have to improve as a shooter.Will the blue Loctite be able to disassemble easily if need be?And I was giving it 6-8 clicks as I was noticing the ammo going fast.I enjoy the learning part of all this.I have always had it sighted in by a sporting good store and called it good.This is new to me.I appreciate your instructions.

[Westcliffe01]

Blue loctite allows screws to be removed with normal tools. To get the base off the receiver i future you would just have to apply a little heat with a heat gun or a small propane torch. It will soften and then you can pull it off. You would be better off with a steel one piece rail from Warne, but since they cost about $100 that can wait for later. Those will generally maintain better alignment, be more rigid and offer more scope position options.

You are shooting a Magnum. I would suggest you avoid trying to shoot the rifle from any kind of restraint or a lead sled. That kind of thing is known to increase the shock to the rifle by several times and often the scope will fail in less than a box of ammo. Figure out how you intend to shoot in the field and follow the same method at the range. I use a $80 bipod on the front and a small bag at the rear under the stock. I can use this on a bench or from prone. Shooting like this gives you direct feedback regarding your technique, whether the barrel stays free floated when its weight is on the bipod (some people seem to think that nothing flexes...).

[Idahokid]

Im using a bench bag that splits in half and you lay the rifle in the middle for a snug fir.Has a handle on it.I just get behind it and butt my shoulder up to it and breath easy and let it rip.

[Idahokid]

You probably need to loosen the lockring on the lens closest to your eye and adjust it until the crosshairs are nice and sharp. I take it this was a package deal? Looks like a long action,what cartridge are you shooting?
I think your right about the package deal thing.Im seeing more Savages with the same scope.Must have been a special run by Cabelas.

[Westcliffe01]

Those scopes are never properly fitted. Exceedingly cheap too so I would be surprized if it lasts a while on your rifle. But hunting season is a long way off, so you have time to get to know the rifle and shot it.

Do I understand correctly that the bag supports the front of the rifle and your shoulder the rear ? If so, that is definitely not a recipie for good groups. You need a support under the stock at the rear to control elevation, then all you have to do is control a little left/right correction and time your breathing and shoot between heartbeats. The bag at the rear is either held in the left hand and squeezed a bit or the bag slid slightly forward or backward to correct elevation (which is why stocks have that slope under the stock. Benchrest guns do not have the slope and slide directly forward and backward under recoil. Aiming is done exclusively with the bench system.

[Idahokid]

it supports the whole rifle.You slide the stock in it.Very minimal adjustment on my part.My breathing is my biggest worry.

[thomae]

I would strongly take the time to get some purple (low strength) loctite. It is all you need for scope screws or even scope mount screws.
Loctite 222 or the equivalent is more than enough for most firearms use. You will be able to disassemble them when required and won't have to add heat.

[Idahokid]

I would strongly take the time to get some purple (low strength) loctite. It is all you need for scope screws or even scope mount screws.
Loctite 222 or the equivalent is more than enough for most firearms use. You will be able to disassemble them when required and won't have to add heat.
I will check out the purple.Thank you.

[Hotolds442]

You'll shoot better aiming at targets that don't have that nasty R on them, too!
Cabelas sold a lot of Savages as a package with their house brand scope, never owned one, so I won't comment.

[Westcliffe01]

Thomae, I was recomending that he basically glue the scope base to the receiver with the blue loctite. Then it is the loctite holding the base and not the screws (cheap chinese crap). The heat required to remove it is no big deal, not like trying to melt solder... I do this on all my rifles and the only way you can do better is to have the base doweled in 2 places. The 1 piece bases that I have done this with could be fired with the screws removed, they are not going anywhere.


I would strongly take the time to get some purple (low strength) loctite. It is all you need for scope screws or even scope mount screws.
Loctite 222 or the equivalent is more than enough for most firearms use. You will be able to disassemble them when required and won't have to add heat.

[Idahokid]

You'll shoot better aiming at targets that don't have that nasty R on them, too!
Cabelas sold a lot of Savages as a package with their house brand scope, never owned one, so I won't comment.
I will reframe buying the R targets.lol.And I'm shopping for another scope.Maybe a Redfield.

[limige]

If you want to save time and ammo try this.

Set your target up 100 yards out.
goto the bench and remove your bolt.
now bag your rifle and make sure its pretty solid, look threw the hole in the barrel and get the target centered in the hole I close one eye. Now without moving the rifle peak threw the scope and adjust the crosshairs to the bull. Check back and forth till you have it real close.

Now if you have a clean barrel fire three shots noting the position of each. Especially the last shot.
if your barrel is dirty just fire one round.

Now measure the distance vertical and horizontal from the bull of the last shot and adjust the scope.
now shoot a three shot group. And make any final adjustment to the center of the group.

As mentioned most scopes each click is 1/4" @100 yards. So 4 clicks per inch. Luepolds have a dial that is numbered. 3" high? Just dial 3 Moa down.

[1.618]

I use blue Loctite (243) all the time on fasteners on boats, motorcycles and guns and I've never had to heat it to remove it. Never heard of using it like a glue, though, so YMMV.

I would second what limige said regarding sighting in the gun at 100 yds...except I usually use a target with a 1" x 1" black square for a bull. Saves laser toner and it's easier to hold the crosshairs on it precisely. Also, let your barrel cool for a few minutes between shots if you want to get your sights "dead on" for a cold barrel for hunting.

Good luck and keep us posted.

(Might as well start saving your nickels for the reloading equipment, too, LOL!)

[RP12]

I never had any luck getting the Loctite to actually glue the base on. I did try it before and all it did was make a mess. It stuck to the base and action but didn't in any way stick them together.

[Westcliffe01]

Loctite is an adhesive and its not just for threads. If you did not get the loctite to glue the base to the action, it suggests 1) you applied too little, 2) there is a serious gap between base and action that raises its own concerns.

When I did this the first time on a 1 piece base, I was a little too slow between setting the base on the action and starting the first screw and I couldnt budge it. Not even with a plastic tipped hammer. So had to apply heat to soften it, then remove all the hardened loctite and start over. But I can assure you that if done properly, the base will not come off even if the screws were to fall out (which is not happening anyhow).