changing from right to left eject.

[old_dood]

can I do this by just disassembling the bolt and rotating the bolt face 180 degrees. It's a 12 BR so I have ports on both sides.

[Wildboarem]

5 minutes and you can find out. Switch and see if will feed and eject a spent case. If it doesn't, 5 more minute and put it back the way it was.

[J.Baker]

Nope!

Look at where the ejector pin is located, it's at about the 5 o'clock position (7 o'clock for us lefties). That's so it will kick the case up and out. If you rotate it 180 degrees it will put the ejector pin at the 11 o'clock position (1 o'clock for lefties) which will want to kick the case down and out which won't work as it needs to go up.

[J.Baker]

Almost forgot - you need to change from a right-hand bolt head to a left-hand bolt head (or vise-versa) to change what side the cases will eject from.

[stangfish]

I guess the left hand head is the same as a left eject?

[old_dood]

Nope!

Look at where the ejector pin is located, it's at about the 5 o'clock position (7 o'clock for us lefties). That's so it will kick the case up and out. If you rotate it 180 degrees it will put the ejector pin at the 11 o'clock position (1 o'clock for lefties) which will want to kick the case down and out which won't work as it needs to go up.

I switched it to test and did notice that. thanks

[jonbearman]

Order a new ptg left eject bolt head and you end up with what you need and the firing pin hole will be perfect.

[handirifle]

The question is, will the case clear the body of the receiver? The ports are not set dead center, usually cut to the right or to the left, based on LH or RH rifle.

Are you making a right bolt left eject rifle?

[J.Baker]

The question is, will the case clear the body of the receiver? The ports are not set dead center, usually cut to the right or to the left, based on LH or RH rifle.

Are you making a right bolt left eject rifle?

He has a dual-port action

[old_dood]

Order a new ptg left eject bolt head and you end up with what you need and the firing pin hole will be perfect.

I ordered a bolt head from them for my LRPV (.223). The reason I did so was the stock part had a FP hole that appeared too big and I felt it was contributing to primer cratering. I haven't installed it yet but it came with a little card stating I should have my gunsmith fit the lugs to my action and have the headspace checked. No problem with the headspace as I was expecting that. I didn't expect having to have the lugs fitted to the action. The lugs are about .007 to .008 thicker than my original part however, with the new part is test fitted, I have no problem closing the bolt. Can anyone tell me if it's absolutely necessary to have the lugs fitted. I sent PTG an email about this and have not received a reply yet. Depending on the answer I will definitely order a left eject head for my 12BR.

[jonbearman]

Ink up the lugs with a sharpie and see how much actual contact you have with a dummy cartridge going into the chamber to tension the lug against the abutment in the reciever.

[old_dood]

Ink up the lugs with a sharpie and see how much actual contact you have with a dummy cartridge going into the chamber to tension the lug against the abutment in the reciever.

made the mistake of not using a dummy round the first time. I just tried it with one and the bolt will not close. Like I said before, it will close on and empty chamber. Would it be OK to just readjust headspace?

[Wildboarem]

made the mistake of not using a dummy round the first time. I just tried it with one and the bolt will not close. Like I said before, it will close on and empty chamber. Would it be OK to just readjust headspace?

Should do the trick. You just shortened your headspace by .007 so re-headspacing the barrel should do it unless I'm missing something.