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liquid
12-10-2013, 10:09 PM
It is something that I have talked about, and yes it could be a fix. I am a boat builder, so know my around epoxies a little, The fact that you roughed up the stock would help, - cyno?? The important thing is that there is proper keying, holes drilled through webbing etc to help hold all in. However, sooner or later, it will let go, as there is a fair bit of oil in the plastic, and that combined with extremes of heat and cold, cannot be a good thing, not to mention what happens when the rifle recoils!! It might take a few years, but it will happen. I have heard of the use of JB weld before, and I am not convinced of this end use. I have read a few threads on this forum and others on this sort of fix, including putting in alloy tubes, steel rods, and arrow shafts, to try and stiffen up the forearm, and also filling in the voids around the rest. This all adds weight, and must upset the balance of the rifle, this has been offset by some by adding weight in the stock. This is all ok if you are only going to shoot off benches, but not good if you have to carry it around hill and dale. The best long term is to replace the stock, pillar and bed it from the get go and be done. No problems then with bi-pods, and you know then that all issues have been dealt with, which in turn makes you more confident, and therefor a better shooter.
I suggest you have a bit of a gander about shooting here in NZ, and you may realize what sort of country we shoot in.
"Goat shooting in NZ" would be a good place to start. Tony Orsman, one of the shooters is a bit over the top, and I don't like his commentary so forget about listening to his remarks and take in the views. some of the Rabbit shooting vids are also awesome.

les

NicfromAlabama
12-10-2013, 10:33 PM
I cannot tell the weight difference with the JB Weld in the front. I only used three packs, which contains two tubes per pack, each tube being one ounce. So, I only added about 6 ounces to the rifle. The big questions is how long will it hold. I did not try to remove all of the mutilated ribbing at the bottom of the stock. I felt like that would help the epoxy hold onto the stock better. Time will tell. I have not shot the rifle since I added the epoxy. It may break loose on the first shot for all I know.

Keep in mind, I did this expecting that I would trash the stock and have to buy an aftermarket stock anyway. But, I wanted to see how well this would work.

liquid
12-10-2013, 11:05 PM
Good luck, thank you for sharing your thoughts. I may give it a go myself, but I may use carbon fiber uni directional layered up in a flat sheet and then cut and fitted to either side of the main central rib, going through the other ribs. Bonding would be accomplished by drilling holes through the web then roughening it up.The same treatment could then be given through the ribs, but would be wet layup! I would prefer to use a couple of carbon arrow shafts along the bottom on either side, then the same with the top, rather than fill up the whole thing. Just think how an "I" beam works, you want to achieve the same. Something to think about over the xmas break.

les

97impreza43
12-11-2013, 06:22 PM
my 223 axis 5/16" steel rod and jb weld in forearm, diy kydex cheek rest, and accutrigger at 2.5lbs. with 55gr nosler ballistics in front of 27gr varget at 120 yards. messured o.475"
http://i.imgur.com/QX0evsh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/X3Lju3d.jpg

Stockrex
12-11-2013, 09:23 PM
Op r u sure it is 9 twist ??
My axis is 7 twist , do they make em in both 9 and 7??

steveNChunter
12-11-2013, 09:45 PM
That's the first 7 twist Axis I've heard of. I'd about bet it's been rebarreled if it's a 7 twist. The Savage website says 1:9"

liquid
12-11-2013, 10:21 PM
Mine is a 9, my brno was a twelve

les

Stockrex
12-16-2013, 12:09 PM
That's the first 7 twist Axis I've heard of. I'd about bet it's been rebarreled if it's a 7 twist. The Savage website says 1:9"

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Savage-Axis-Rifle-.223-Rem/17656098

sku - 19046

Savage Axis Rifle, .223 Rem:

Classic rifle
Twist: 1 x 7"
Choke type: fully rifled barrel
Action type: bolt action
Capacity: 4
Barrel color: blued
Barrel length: 22"
Length of pull: 13.5"
Overall length: 43.875"
Weight: 6.5 lbs
Stock: black
Barrel type: sporter barrel
Drilled and tapped
Made in the USA
Stock features: synthetic stock
Magazine included


is the spec incorrect?

Stockrex
12-16-2013, 12:15 PM
fyi:

How come I CANNOT FIND ANY INFO ON SAVAGE AXIS # 19046???

asked 1 year, 4 months ago By
DOOWRAH
- Yonkers, N.Y.

on Savage Axis Rifle, .223 Rem

1 answer
Answers


answer 1
This was a Walmart special run from Savage Arms. The number is from Savage/Walmart and it is not listed on the Savage site. It is a true 1-7 twist. I have one myself. It will shoot the larger gn bullets 69gn to 90gn but I recommend the 69 -77 for best shots on the bullseye. I only wish this was the 26" tube and it had a accu. trigger. I hope this helps.
answered 1 year ago By
TomColorado

steveNChunter
12-16-2013, 07:29 PM
I got to wondering after I saw the Walmart ad, especially since I bought my .223 Axis at Wal-Mart. I always just assumed mine was a 1:9" twist. So I went and checked it ten times to be sure, running a tight patch down the bore and measuring the distance it took to turn the cleaning rod one complete turn. Every time I got exactly 1:9.5". That was a little surprising to me that it its a half a turn slower than advertised, but 69 gr is the heaviest bullet I'll probably ever shoot.

What time frame were these 1:7 rifles sold at Walmart? Were they only blued or could you get stainless as well?

The model # on mine is 19165, which is on the Savage website and is listed as 1:9"

Stockrex
12-17-2013, 04:56 PM
I bought mine on black Friday

pisgah
12-17-2013, 07:34 PM
Mine has done quite well so far with anything tried up to 69 gr.

I am curious -- why do I see this question so often asked as "What grain bullet?" No one asks, "What ounce steak is that?" It's, "What weight bullet...", isn't it?;)

steveNChunter
12-18-2013, 07:22 PM
Well I finally got a chance to get out and shoot the first 20 rounds through my new Axis .223. I haven't started loading for it yet, but I bought one box of Winchester 69 gr. ammo to try. The rifle is stock except for modding the stock trigger. Cheap Center Point scope. I zeroed the scope at 50 and shot a couple groups, then moved the target to 100 yards and had six rounds left. The pic is of my best of 2 three shot groups. 100 yards, Resting on bags, 10 mph crosswind, 25 degrees (my excuse for shivering and shaking around!)

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1525724_688127241220670_1777864925_n.jpg

The rifle is capable of better than this when I get more used to the trigger and start loading for it. But an 11/16" group still ain't bad for an el-cheapo Axis. I bet the Boyd's stock will help the groups a little too.

I'm really looking forward to working with this rifle :p

pinsnscrews
12-19-2013, 02:27 AM
Wait until you get about 100 rounds through the barrel, that seems to be a common sweet spot for a number of axis owners. Groups seem to tighten up more at that point.

NicfromAlabama
12-19-2013, 04:13 AM
Wait until you get about 100 rounds through the barrel, that seems to be a common sweet spot for a number of axis owners. Groups seem to tighten up more at that point.

I addition to hand loading, I am wondering if that is what helped my Axis shoot better. I am somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 rounds right now. Just by chance, I started hand loading after I had already shot about 80 or 90 rounds. So, the groups tightening up may not be due to just the hand loads and heavier bullets. I still have a couple of boxes of cheap 55 grain stuff. I might try them again just to see how they group.

Dummos
12-19-2013, 07:24 AM
Another vote fpr 69gr sierras. I use 24.5gr of varget