New to (rifle) reloading and have a few questions

[kopfjaeger]

I have reloaded a lot of shotgun shells but no rifle, so I'm getting everything set up to start reloading some .308's. I have ordered a couple of manuals (Lee 2nd Edition and the Lyman). I have a (donated) Lee three hole turret press and just got the deluxe die set for it in .308. My questions are about components. Based on availability and things I've read so far, I will most likely be ordering a couple pounds of IMR4064 to get started.

Rifle is Savage 11VT 24" barrel, 1:10 twist. Plans are mostly target shooting (at least out to about 800) and hunting (white tail, hogs). I may even head out to Nebraska and blast some prairie dogs as well. I'm really looking for good to great accuracy.

Looking to get a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Any thoughts on this item? Worth it or not? I have a couple of good scales.

Is there any major differences in primers? I am looking at getting Winchester Large Rifle Primers (mostly due to availability, and not knowing anything different regarding the various primer manufacturers).

What about Brass? I have some Federal Match as well as some Federal LE Tactical (Nickel). Also have some PMC that I will use to break in barrel. Anything I need to look out for with any of these? Should each be loaded the same, or get rid of some and keep only one type?

I would prefer to go with Sierra MK 175gr. Match BTHP. Any suggestions here?

Here is the load data from IMR site:


175 GR. SIE HPBT
IMR
IMR 4064
.308"
2.800"
41.5
2500
45,200 PSI
45.6C
2728
59,500 PSI



My plan is to start at the low end of the charge (grains), and work my way up from there to find what works best.
I'm not too sure about projectile seating depth either, I figure the manual will help in this area, but any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance!

[kschilling]

I hope your ready for Pandora's box to open. Don't over think the process. I've seen some really great loads put together with very simple equipment and components. Do some basic load development with the components you've picked and see what the barrel likes to run. After you've found that sweet spot..... load and have a good time. Do some reading on Ladder Tests, OCW tests and Incremental Load Development Tests (My favorite 200-300 yards only) and it will become very clear what your rifle likes. Enjoy.

[missed]

On the seat depth a hornady lock and load gauge will get your chamber measurement. The 175's fly great out of my gun at 0.00" and 0.040" off the lands. I would just load 5 at 0,10,20,30,40 thousands off the lands and see what it likes. I just got some 4064 to try out since Varget is scarce.

[darkker]

Dear lord!!
First, read your Lee manual... TWICE. Then re-read the part about volume Vs. Weight.
The PPM will allow you to not have to pray to the gods with never washed socks, while ribbing a rabbits foot, for long range accuracy. Just buy a cheap tube of graphite, and coat the guts prior to use.
There is a difference in primers. But the question about them you REALLY asked, is NO it doesn't matter until you learn your system and do some serious testing.

Brass is another magic-man-in-the-sky, topic. I personally don't care for federal, very soft brass IMO. Case volume is important for long range accuracy, hunting won't likely show anything. But if you want to know volumes, measure them; don't call into the category of weighing them. There isn't one metallurgical mix for brass, so ASSuming weight means volume is wrong.

The 175SMK is the only 30-call bullet that will survive the transonic crossover. Very forgiving, and easy to load. The Nosler custom comp, is a pretty blatant copy also..

To get to 800 yards isn't difficult, and you don't need to push hard at all. As to the seating depth. I have never found a MK that wouldn't shoot with a 1\32"jump (in the Lee book). But don't load for my rifle, you don't have it. Load for your rifle.

[missed]

The Lee powder measure works well I have one, works great with Varget have not tried it with 4064 yet.

I use cci primers I just always have. I don't think there is much difference between the major manufacturers there.

Federal match brass is good. I have that and lake city lr for my 308.

On the break in its not going to matter on ammo just quality ammo.

[psharon97]

First off, as others have said, you've just opened Pandora's box. If you're going to load for precision shooting you will NEED to measure the weight of each load. This is a decent starter scale for the money:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/712103/lee-safety-magnetic-powder-scale-100-grain-capacity
If you are tempted to buy a digital scale, I recommend the RCBS 1500 chargemaster. It is expensive but worth the money. However, for starting out in reloading, the lee safety scale will work just fine.

As far as brass goes, I use one type of brass for a given load. For my hunting loads, I'll typically use Remington brass. For long range target shooting, I'll use Nosler or Lapua. I have plenty of Nosler lying around, so I use that.

[Dennis]

My best performance with smk 175's is with Varget Powder and Winchester LR primers. Brass doesn't seem to matter much. Trim your brass, and uniform you primer pockets. Get a good scale for your powder measurements. This should get you started. This is the way I started, then I started studying the fine arts of reloading. I am convinced proper brass prep is one of the biggest keys to accuracy. JMO

Dennis

[darkker]

If you're going to load for precision shooting you will NEED to measure the weight of each load.

This is exactly why I said read the portion about volume Vs weight, twice....
Weighing extruded powder completely ignores any changes in burning rates, volume will account for it. Long range precision is about consistency, moving burning rates doesn't sound consistent to me.

But there are several ways to skin a cat, just learn about all of them before you claim to know the "best".

[Wildboarem]

This is exactly why I said read the portion about volume Vs weight, twice....
Weighing extruded powder completely ignores any changes in burning rates, volume will account for it. Long range precision is about consistency, moving burning rates doesn't sound consistent to me.

But there are several ways to skin a cat, just learn about all of them before you claim to know the "best".

Question, in regards to volume vs weight, if I weigh the same amount of IMR 7828 and weigh the the same amount IMR 7828 ssc their volumes are considerably different due to kernel size. So if I loaded the same volume of ssc as what loads safely with regular 7828 the load would be consistent? And not over pressure? Trying to better understand. Have read the book but not all of it I grasped fully.

[chukarmandoo]

This is exactly why I said read the portion about volume Vs weight, twice....
Weighing extruded powder completely ignores any changes in burning rates, volume will account for it. Long range precision is about consistency, moving burning rates doesn't sound consistent to me.

But there are several ways to skin a cat, just learn about all of them before you claim to know the "best".


Question, in regards to volume vs weight, if I weigh the same amount of IMR 7828 and weigh the the same amount IMR 7828 ssc their volumes are considerably different due to kernel size. So if I loaded the same volume of ssc as what loads safely with regular 7828 the load would be consistent? And not over pressure? Trying to better understand. Have read the book but not all of it I grasped fully.

This is what I was talking about in another thread. A volume of powder (cubic centimeters) has a more consistent burn rate than a weighed (grains) powder charge. The cc's are not the same as grains and are more consistent. You can be close by weighing but you will be dead on with volume because that is how powder is rated.

[kopfjaeger]

Thanks for all of the replies. The information is greatly appreciated. Chukarmandoo, since the charts all suggest powder charge by weight, how do you convert to volume? I know the dipper that came with my die set is in cc's and that can be easily weighed but is their a better conversion that can be used?

[chukarmandoo]

Thanks for all of the replies. The information is greatly appreciated. Chukarmandoo, since the charts all suggest powder charge by weight, how do you convert to volume? I know the dipper that came with my die set is in cc's and that can be easily weighed but is their a better conversion that can be used?

Read what darkker posted. Lee explains it all. If you get the Lee Perfect Powder Measure it will have the conversion tables for most, if not all, powders. Make sure you fully understand what you are doing! It is pretty simple once you get started.

[eddiesindian]

I hope your ready for Pandora's box to open. Don't over think the process. I've seen some really great loads put together with very simple equipment and components. Do some basic load development with the components you've picked and see what the barrel likes to run. After you've found that sweet spot..... load and have a good time. Do some reading on Ladder Tests, OCW tests and Incremental Load Development Tests (My favorite 200-300 yards only) and it will become very clear what your rifle likes. Enjoy.
+1.....

[darkker]

Use the charts Lee provides, or follow the instructions for a VMD calculation. That will get you there for a powder not listed. You can also find VMD instructions with the search feature on Lee's website.