12 LRP not firing

[pahoghunter]

I know my Rock Chucker has no "feel" for seating primers and mostly let's then sit up off the floor of the primer pocket and protrude above the base. This is why I use a hand primer, I can actually feel when it is seated entirely and I get the 2-3 thou below base that I desire. If you have access to a hand primer, at least try it. You will see it's actually faster and easier and gives a better feel for the condition of the primer pockets and depth.
I've used the hand primer, it doesn't make any difference.

[pahoghunter]

I took the bolt apart last evening and cleaned it, this morning I went to the range 3 out of 15 didn't fire one of the 3 fired after recycling the bolt. Another question about the flat spring washer does it matter which direction it goes on, I can't see that it would? The bolt functioned properly but ALL my groups went to hades. Also I called Savage this morning they said there guns aren't made to fire reloads. So I guess I will go get a box of factory?

[thermaler]

I agree, but to add another log to the fire, if the trigger over travel is set too tight it causes the sear to drag over the radius on the trigger padding the pin fall then depending on the trigger pull it may fire one time and not the next.

I love diagnosing interment problems, it gives me a reason to drink more beer!

BillYou need a reason? Better call 911

[bodywerks]

I took the bolt apart last evening and cleaned it, this morning I went to the range 3 out of 15 didn't fire one of the 3 fired after recycling the bolt. Another question about the flat spring washer does it matter which direction it goes on, I can't see that it would? The bolt functioned properly but ALL my groups went to hades. Also I called Savage this morning they said there guns aren't made to fire reloads. So I guess I will go get a box of factory?

They're full of feces. Plain and simple. But a box of factory ammo will eliminate your reloading technique as the culprit.
The washer direction doesn't matter.
You need to start telling us what you have and have not done so we can help you.
Have you checked firing pin protrusion?
Have you cleaned your trigger?
Have you verified that there's nothing hindering the movement of the sear after the trigger is pulled?
Have you verified that you are fully compressing the accurelease prior to engaging the trigger? If you aren't doing this the accurelease will stop the sear and keep the firing pin from striking the primer.
Show us pics of the light primer strikes. If they are super light I think it has to do with obstruction on your trigger or your technique.
Is this your first accutrigger rifle?

[pahoghunter]

The factory rounds had 3 misfires and Savage is sending the big brown truck. This is not my first accu-trigger (it might be my last) the firing pin protrusion was I believe .060, the firing pin struck the primer every time, the strikes on all the primers appeared to be light whether they fired or not especially if I compared them to my Sako. We will see what Savage has to say. thanks guys.

[bodywerks]

Still bet it's something you could fix yourself, but a new rifle shouldn't need fixing so it's probably best that they take care of it.
This may not be an accutrigger problem but I do hate them for target shooting. I kept one on my hunting rifle, though, for the added safety. I just maxed out the trigger return spring to ensure that the trigger catches the sear properly when cycling the bolt.
Good luck and let us know what comes of it.

[jonbearman]

Has he measured the case to a fired case? Do you have a hornady comparitor to make darn sure you are not overbumping.As far as I can see he hasnt quantified this problem.

[bodywerks]

Has he measured the case to a fired case? Do you have a hornady comparitor to make darn sure you are not overbumping.As far as I can see he hasnt quantified this problem.

It's definitely misfiring and has nothing to do with his reloading technique, as he has tried factory ammo and 3 of 15 rounds were ftf. And even the ones that do fire have the same weak primer strike on the primer.
It's either a weak spring, improperly adjusted spring, or an obstruction within the firing mechanism, such as an improperly formed trigger bracket, sear, or accurelease blade. Or something within the stock itself obstructing the firing mechanism.

[Dennis]

Again, I had a similar problem and it was the sear. Changed it and the gun has been perfect since. It may not be the sear, but if there is a problem with it, you will "not" see it.

Dennis

[bodywerks]

I agree. I built up a custom savage from parts and had to order the sear twice because the first one wasn't formed right. They are stamped and bent metal. All it would take is for the sear tab to be a tad long and it would grind against the trigger after firing, preventing the firing pin spring from using all its potential energy to slam the firing pin.
I just hope the OP comes back with the fix after he gets the rifle back.

[stangfish]

If the bolt has ben cleaned and the cross pin installed correctly, there are few other issues besides the sear obstruction theory. I think you fellas pinned it down.

[pahoghunter]

If the bolt has ben cleaned and the cross pin installed correctly, there are few other issues besides the sear obstruction theory. I think you fellas pinned it down.

When you say cross pin "installed correctly" I was wondering about that, its round so what would keep it from turning slightly and causing drag on the firing pin?

[bodywerks]

That cross pin usually self aligns. If you were able to resemble it with little effort then the cross pin shouldn't be the problem.

[Big Medicine]

Let us know what Savage does to remedy your issue, this has my wheels turning.

[pahoghunter]

That cross pin usually self aligns. If you were able to resemble it with little effort then the cross pin shouldn't be the problem.

that's what I thought.

[pahoghunter]

Let us know what Savage does to remedy your issue, this has my wheels turning.
Will do