switch barrel project with Pics

[MoriCNC]

Hey all,

New to the board and really like the atmosphere so far. I figured I would show some pictures and give some description of the machining process. I'm no wizard with words, so feel free to ask any questions if I am un clear.

First thing I did was strip the action bare and used a CMM to map out the measurements of hole locations, bore sizes and cylindricity. I was surprised at the failure to hold center line (as much as .010") but for a $190 rifle I wont complain. After I had all my dimensions I decided I wanted to put the forward stud back on true center and ream the area were the barrels will fit in the action. This was mostly to de-burr the inside from the factory machining. I milled the forward stud out and threaded it to 5/16-24 3B. This got me back on center and a little better hold than the factory threads. http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg.html)

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg.html)

After the action I had to make the new stud with the alignment pin to hold the barrel in place and repeat head space. I dug around the shop and found a large shoulder bolt that already had the 1/4 hex key in it. Threw it in the lathe and machined it down to new thread size and length.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg.html)

Next I had to machine the barrel to accept the pin. I locked the barrel up in a collet block and probed it for center and offset for headspace. Machined a spot-face to get a flat surface as the pocket needs to fit the matting pin with as little slip as possible. When done I had a hole with .00025" of room for the pin to slip in.

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg.html)

All I had left to do is reassemble the riffle and check headspace.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg.html)

I also like the way the stock turned out
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html)

Thanks for reading and let me know what you think.

[thomae]

All I can say is that I wish I had your machinist's knowledge and the tools you have at your disposal.
Can I come over to your house to play?

What kind of barrel swapping do you plan to do?

[MoriCNC]

22lr OEM and now I have 22WMR, Next will be a 17. I would like it to be HM2 but a cheap 17 in 14 twist is hard to come by. It will probably be a HMR first. I do most of my mods at work. Everything is programmed on CNC except chamber work. I like that the old fashioned way. If you ever make it out to the Olympic peninsula come on by. The cool thing is I have the tooling and programs so to do another would take less than an hour.

[shanejohnson2002]

How did you stain the stock? The machine work is impressive too, but I really like the look of that stock!

[MoriCNC]

The stock was the Original birch laminate. I sanded the walnut color down and rubbed in three good coats of Minwax Ebony Stain.