MoriCNC
11-06-2013, 09:11 PM
Hey all,
New to the board and really like the atmosphere so far. I figured I would show some pictures and give some description of the machining process. I'm no wizard with words, so feel free to ask any questions if I am un clear.
First thing I did was strip the action bare and used a CMM to map out the measurements of hole locations, bore sizes and cylindricity. I was surprised at the failure to hold center line (as much as .010") but for a $190 rifle I wont complain. After I had all my dimensions I decided I wanted to put the forward stud back on true center and ream the area were the barrels will fit in the action. This was mostly to de-burr the inside from the factory machining. I milled the forward stud out and threaded it to 5/16-24 3B. This got me back on center and a little better hold than the factory threads. http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg.html)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg.html)
After the action I had to make the new stud with the alignment pin to hold the barrel in place and repeat head space. I dug around the shop and found a large shoulder bolt that already had the 1/4 hex key in it. Threw it in the lathe and machined it down to new thread size and length.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg.html)
Next I had to machine the barrel to accept the pin. I locked the barrel up in a collet block and probed it for center and offset for headspace. Machined a spot-face to get a flat surface as the pocket needs to fit the matting pin with as little slip as possible. When done I had a hole with .00025" of room for the pin to slip in.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg.html)
All I had left to do is reassemble the riffle and check headspace.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg.html)
I also like the way the stock turned out
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html)
Thanks for reading and let me know what you think.
New to the board and really like the atmosphere so far. I figured I would show some pictures and give some description of the machining process. I'm no wizard with words, so feel free to ask any questions if I am un clear.
First thing I did was strip the action bare and used a CMM to map out the measurements of hole locations, bore sizes and cylindricity. I was surprised at the failure to hold center line (as much as .010") but for a $190 rifle I wont complain. After I had all my dimensions I decided I wanted to put the forward stud back on true center and ream the area were the barrels will fit in the action. This was mostly to de-burr the inside from the factory machining. I milled the forward stud out and threaded it to 5/16-24 3B. This got me back on center and a little better hold than the factory threads. http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-3.jpg.html)
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg.html)
After the action I had to make the new stud with the alignment pin to hold the barrel in place and repeat head space. I dug around the shop and found a large shoulder bolt that already had the 1/4 hex key in it. Threw it in the lathe and machined it down to new thread size and length.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg.html)
Next I had to machine the barrel to accept the pin. I locked the barrel up in a collet block and probed it for center and offset for headspace. Machined a spot-face to get a flat surface as the pocket needs to fit the matting pin with as little slip as possible. When done I had a hole with .00025" of room for the pin to slip in.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg.html)
All I had left to do is reassemble the riffle and check headspace.
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-7.jpg.html)
I also like the way the stock turned out
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i476/getagaff/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/getagaff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html)
Thanks for reading and let me know what you think.