Are Savage Accustocks Solid

[Boba Debt]

My Model 10 FCP-K should be in next week.

I would like to modify the stock as demonstrated in this article:
http://www.waveform.eclipse.co.uk/WEB%20PAGES/TARGET%20SHOOTING/Cheek%20Piece.htm

But you obviously need a solid stock to do this.

Does anyone know if the Accustock is solid?

[chaz12]

I have a model 10 precision carbine with an Accustock. I can't give you a 100 percent definitive answer because I haven't drilled into it. But going by weight and by the sound when you tap on it, I would say it's as hollow as a politician's latest promise.

Chaz

[steveinwv]

Hollow.

[whitetail8827]

Just an opinion on the procedures detailed in the link:

I would tape the stock with painter's tape and map out the cut lines with pencil/marker. Then locate the pin and screw positions. Now the difference; drill the 2 pin positions BEFORE you cut the stock. The only thing I would do is make sure the drill bit angle is parallel to the cuts that run perpendiclar to the top of the stock, or if those are angled inward, like the stock in the link, just maintain a consistent angle between the two holes being drilled that will cause the movable cheekpiece to travel a desirable track as it moves up and down. The link shows the drill points to be perpendiclar to the cut line running lengthwise on the stock, so if you mark the taped stock out first, you can run lines at 90 degrees from the marks toward to stock edges and then set your angle to follow those lines.

The benefit to drilling the stock prior to cutting is that the holes will absolutely line up with no binding, so long as you drill both holes parallel.

Another idea I had while reading the link was a method to hold the stock square when cutting. At the recoil end, take a piece of 2x6 about 3 inches wide. Remove the recoil pad, tape the first couple inches of the stock with 1 round of painters tape and set the butt on top of the cut edge of the 2x6 so that it is centered within all edges of the 2x6. Outline the stock with pencil and cut out that profile. If you centered it perfectly, you should be able to insert the stock into that profile and that block will keep the stock level during cutting of the cheekpiece. You still need to block the action side of the stock, and level the stock end to end, but that is just a matter of thickness spacer. I would acquire this spacer dimension by placing the stock into the block that was made for the recoil side and eyeing up the spacer amount needd for the action end (just to get close). Now measure the distance from the table (or whatever the block is resting on) to dead center of the recoil end of the stock. This is the measurement that you need to duplicate to the center of the action end of the stock, which will vary depending on the spacers you put under it. You could go all out and replicate the procedure used for the recoil end and that should be very accurate. This would also help keep the block on the stock as you work with it.

The "nut-sert" they use for the set screw can be done differently too. I use these in metal applications all the time and they work well. However, they are designed to "mushroom" when set in place with the crimping tool. This mushroom effect creates a collar that can't pull through the hole, thus creating a solid mount. I don't see how they can do that in a solid material. Therefore, over time I feel this piece will fail. There is going to be torque on this connector in order to hold the cheekpiece pins from moving. There is a product made for wood to accomplish this. I believe I found them in a Depot store. The look similar, but are threaded on the exterior side, and I believe threaded left hand. You drill the proper size hole and turn these into the wood with a large straight driver, or hex wrench (sorry I can't remember the fine details) until they are flush. They come in many internal thread sizes so make sure you have a larger one like 1/4-20. You can get 1/4-20 set screws in black hex heads, in all lengths so the finished face can be flush with the stock for a professional looking end result.

This may sound like alot of work, but the finished product is a direct representation of the amount of preparation. If the cut lines are crooked, the job will be poor at best. One other thing, make sure you use painters tape, and tape both sides of the stock. Tape will limit splintering as the bandsaw blade exits the wood.

Best of luck with the project.

[MSG Janoski]

The stock is hollow, and has Styrofoam in it, you can easily remove the new P.A.D. recoil pad and look inside. While you won't be able to "build" the type of riser you show you can make the saddlebag style.

Here is a reply I just gave another shooter from a different forum;
I've made several cheek risers out of kydex over the last several years and have helped others, it's very easy.
I found a source for kydex in Nashville ($12.00 for a 12X12 inch piece) but you can buy it from the source in the link. I've used both a heat gun and a high temperature hair dryer to heat the kydex to bend and shape it. This link is a straight forward instruction to making them and drilling is no problem. Most synthetic stocks are hollow or hollow and filled with foam. You can always take off your recoil pad and look into your but stock.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=284834
As in this link I've always used 3/16th kydex. To cut the kydex I've used a circular shop saw, a coping saw and a jig saw. To shape the "curve" I've used a belt sander (as pictured) and a jig saw and sanding the edge to finish. You can find chicago screws or furniture hex screws at most large hardware stores or a real "nut and bolt" store/business.
It's very easy, good luck!

You can view some images of the last one I've made at;
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showgallery&Number=1636712
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showgallery&Number=1634206

A quick note, when I made this cheek riser for the new 10 FLCP-K shown I first removed the Styrofoam and refilled the stock with a piece of heavy density foam cutting and shaping it with a utility knife.

[Boba Debt]

Why didn;t you fill it with some type of liquid epoxy resin? If i did that I think I could make an adjustable cheek rest


BTW: I love this stock, does anyone know who makes it?

http://www.waveform.eclipse.co.uk/IMAGES/TARGET%20SHOOTING/CHEEKPIECE%20MOD/CHEEKPIECE%20COMPLETE%20SM.jpg

[MSG Janoski]

If you were to fill it with liquid epoxy resin it would never cure out. I guess you could attempt it if you took a couple months or so to drop in a thin 1/8 to 1/4 inch layer at a time letting each layer dry and cure. I personally would not want that extra weight, but seeing you like a wood stock that probably does not matter to you.

Away from the cheek riser, you will like the AccuStock for it's accuracy, I've been very impressed with it and I've had several other weapons in McMillan, HS, PK and AICS stocks.

[hotbrass]

I dont know why it would never cure out. Only if you did not use the proper proportions of resin and hardener. Epoxy resin uses molecular chain bonding to cure. If you put too much hardener in a batch that size it might get real hot and cure instantly, or catch on fire.

The down side of filling a space with only epoxy is it is real heavy. Mixing it with a 1:1 ratio of micro balloons would work.

[Boba Debt]

... but seeing you like a wood stock that probably does not matter to you.




I actually hate wood stocks.

My dream stock would be a solid resin version of the one pictured above.

[82boy]

BTW: I love this stock, does anyone know who makes it?


That is a high-end Pellet rifle, I think it is a CZ. I have seen them before, they are a factory stock.

The accu-stock still has flex in the grip area on back. IMO it would be a bad choice to modify it.

[jdg]

I would say it's as hollow as a politician's latest promise.

Chaz

;D ;D ;D

Fill it full of Marglass body filler, the green stuff with fiberglass fibers in it. That stuff is tough!