.260 rem reloading help...s.o.s

[harperjr]

I have a LRP 12 in 260 REM and I'm having a hell of a time finding a good load that will hold a group better than MOA.

I've followed all breakin procedures and have paid verry close attention to case prep. this is what im working with at the moment.

REM BRASS
H4350
NOSLER 130 ACCUBOND

If you could please provide me with any load data for my rifle, and recommendations on loading components as well..Thank you

[Alleycat72]

I shoot Re17 and a 140. ES in the single digits.

[davemuzz]

I have a good shooting\hunting buddy who loads for his 260. I know he loads a 140gr and uses Ramshot Hunter powders and he beats (outshoots) our gun club rifle nuts at our once a month "groundhog" shoot. At 300 yards he puts 5 into a quarter. However, I know he uses the Nosler Custom Comp bullet (because like me...he shoots a pile of ammo) and he uses Ramshot because he's cheap, and Ramshot just plain works. But I don't know how far from the lands he seats nor do I know his powder charge. But I can tell you it works.

Dave

[BoilerUP]

Try a 140gr A-Max, 142 SMK or 139 Scenar.

[harperjr]

I just received some 140gr A-Max in the mail and will look farward to trying them out.
any ideas on a good starting powder charge?

[BoilerUP]

42.0gr H4350, going up in 0.3gr increments to 44ish grains.

[nso123]

I have not had the greatest luck with Accubond bullets myself. Some guys swear by them. I use Partitions for hunting with better accuracy.

[davemuzz]

You can find some load data at the Hodgdon reloading web site: http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Click the "I Agree" button, then the "Cartridge Loads" button in the yellow box, then "load type"...your choices are rifle or pistol, then it's pretty intuitive from there.

Dave

[FW Conch]

Accubonds are long for their weight. I couldn't get the 140grn to group well in my 260 either. But they are good enough for "minute of deer". Good Luck......Jim

[stomp442]

I'm having the same problem with a new takeoff barrel I got here on the forum. I've tried H4350 H4831 and IMR4064 along with Sierra Game kings Bergers and Amax all in the 140 grain and can't seem to get any better than 2" groups at 100. Loads have been worked up in half grain increments for each powder and bullet combo. I've even tried adding some fore end pressure and moving the target out to 200 with the same horrible results. I really want to shoot the 140 bullets to maximize the potential of the caliber but so far all I have done is waste bullets and powder. I do have an 8lb keg of Ramshot hunter I will have to try that before I give up.

[Idaho-45]

My girlfriend's 10 Predator Max-1, shoots well with 130 Accubonds, & Reloader 19. ( Also 260 Remington)! I've done well with Lothar Walther barreled 260, with 142 Sierra MatchKings & H4831sc. Idaho-45

[davemuzz]

Most, some, maybe all of you know this....but at the risk of being redundant:

1) When you size, if you F\L size do you have your die adjusted so that you "only allow" 2 to 3 thousands of headspace play?
2) What brand of primers are you using? I would assume non-magnum, and would agree. However I did find that when I switched from Winchester to CCI primers my 5 shot 200 groups shrank significantly.
3) You may not have a tool to check your bullet load concentricity, but I'm willing to bet you have a nice smooth table somewhere in your house. Take a few of your loads.....maybe 10 to even 20, and do a slow roll of 'em and look at the bullet to see if the tip is wobbling up 'n down. If so, then you have to look at something in your reloading. Concentricity and standard deviation of velocities are what will give you small groups. (I'm not speaking of benchrest stuff here.)
4) Are you trimming your brass to the same length? All of your brass should be trimmed to the same length. If not, a short piece will not have the same "grip" on a bullet that a long piece will. The longer piece brass will generate more initial pressure and a bit higher velocity. (This will really give you a high standard deviation, and that's not what you want.)
5) When you trim your brass are you chamfering it? You don't want to leave a sharp edge on the brass. If so, it will shave off a chunk of bullet and that's not going to let that bullet fly true at 3,000fps.
6) Seating depth of bullets. I usually start....and almost finish my seating depth at 20-thousands from the lands. Now, when I shoot the shorter bullets like the 123gr and such, that's not a true statement as I look to seat 'em just deep enough so the entire bullet is being "grasp" by the entire neck of the case. Doing that...as tested on my concentricity gauge, has shown me that I will get 99% of all my reloads with concentricity under 2-thousands.

FWIW

Dave

[Wildboarem]

Take a look over at accurate shooter.com reloading section "long range load development at 100yds" by Erik Cortina. I suggest following his technique.

[nastynatesfish]

I use 140 nosler custom comps and H1000.

[nastynatesfish]

They have 140 and 123 in stock right now. Just checked.

[davemuzz]

Take a look over at accurate shooter.com reloading section "long range load development at 100yds" by Erik Cortina. I suggest following his technique.

I scanned thru this post. They discussed all about powder's, and charge amounts, reading the groups at 100 yards, and then bullet seating depths and (of course) their effects on groups. But I didn't see any discussion about brass preparation. To me, Brass prep is more than half the battle to get consistent tiny groups. Powder charges and bullet depth seating can be arrived at thru several methods. But consistent brass prep is consistent brass prep.....and you have to have that to get tiny groups.

FWIW

Dave

[Onewolf]

I shoot a stock LRP 260 and I use Lapua brass, CCI BR-2 primers, and H4350 powder. My best loads are:

SMK 142, 42.8gr, COL 2.840"
A-Max 140, 43.0gr, COL 2.855"

Both of these loads are consistently 1/2 - 2/3 MOA at 300 meters (and extremely accurate out to our range limit of 1000yds)

Edit: Those groups are shot with bipod and either prone or off bench.

[seanhagerty]

I guess I am missing the boat on the brass prep. I do very little brass prep: deprime, clean, trim to length (if needed), chamfer (if trimmed), then I load.

I never mess with primer pockets, but occasionally I will anneal using a propane torch and a drill. Other than that, I load em and I shoot em.

[Wildboarem]

Team Lapua trims brass, loads brass, shoots brass. They don't weight sort, anneal, uniform primer pockets, debut flash holes, etc.. They load and shoot, granted they are using good brass. They are not the only ones out there focusing more on load development and less on case prep.

[davemuzz]

Team Lapua trims brass, loads brass, shoots brass. They don't weight sort, anneal, uniform primer pockets, debut flash holes, etc.. They load and shoot, granted they are using good brass. They are not the only ones out there focusing more on load development and less on case prep.

Yeah….I will get one-hole 5 shot groups with brand new Lapua brass…shot the very first time. I just check the length, trim if needed, remove material from the flash hole, chamfer and that's it. Team Lapua can do that too. 'Cause they don't have too shoot that brass a second or third or fourth….etc…time.

I don't have pockets that deep.

Dave