Savage 110 sear/bolt release swap

[iotarho]

Hi all, following up on another thread...

I've got an older style Savage 110 with the bolt release/cocking indicator up in front of the bolt handle. The chassis I have is made for the new accutrigger with the bolt release in front of the trigger. Not a big fan but the chassis was a great price.

In any case, the schematic on this thread (~halfway down the page)
http://www.predatormastersforums.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2371948

shows this new bolt release-on-trigger arrangement (4A, 4B, and 4C) and it *looks* like this sear assembly should be pretty closely interchangeable with the old style trigger that I have. The problem is, I can't find the schematic anywhere on Brownells or otherwise, so I'm not sure how to find the part #s I need (for the new style sear and sear spring).

Can anyone help point me in the direction of the part #s for these? Or the origin of this schematic?

Thanks.

[stangfish]

I have played with this a little bit and my conclusion is you will be doing some metal removal for clearance for the topside bolt release or you will be welding/soldering and cutting on your sear in order to get things to work. The new style sear needs a provision for the new spring cut in the bottom of the action to work with an top side model. I will see if I can get you some pictures but it might be a couple of days.

[iotarho]

Awesome, thanks Stangfish. Machining's no worry. Is it just a little notch in the bottom of the action so the spring doesn't slip around? This might be one of those cases where a picture is worth a thousand words :).

Really curious about Savage moving the bolt release down to the trigger. I don't know if I've seen a lot of fans of it, and it required a change to a tried and true action machining process?

[Nandy]

ok, what do you mean chassis?
I have both the old bolt side release and bottom release guns. I converted the bottom release bolt gun to a side release bolt gun by using a side release bolt sear and heating it with my oxy acetylene torch and bending it a little (maybe just a 1/8). cleared the side of the stock for the side release and it works great for exception that the new side release sear does add 1 pound to the accutrigger....
1 But you want to go the other route?
2 Or do you want to install the new style bottom release bolt sear in an old style action built for the side release bolt sear?
3 OR do you just want to mount an old style action with the side release bolt sear in a stock for an accutrigger?
If 3 all you will probably need to do is to clear the stock for the side release sear....

Let me know what you are trying to do and I might be able to put it together at home and see what could be needed or just wait on Stang...
Good luck!

[stangfish]

Nandy, It sounds like he has a Chasis system(aftermarket stock like a Mcree or XLR) that is set up for the bottom release. His action is the topside release and he wants to convert that action. I am fairly busy right now to get thing ready for photos so if you want to do something with it ....go right ahead.

[Nandy]

My time is limited but I might be able to get some answers for him if he comes back.

Seems to me his best shot is to just dremel the space on the side for the side bolt release sear to fit in the stock. That will be easier and cheaper than getting the bottom release sear. In the other hand that might affect the resell price of the stock where I think the sear will be a clean swapp with no mods...

When I converted mine I used a boyd stock that is built for side release bolt in a short action. I first wanted to make sure the action would fit in with the bottom release bolt sear just in case and I had to clear quite a bit of wood. Then I swapped the sear to the side release sear and still had to clear a bit on the side because the inletting is not the same but it was minor. I will look when I can and see how that action will fit in the original bottom release stock and give some general feedback...

[iotarho]

I'm back/not dead yet :).

Yep Stang is right that it's an XLR chassis. I have been strongly considering milling the chassis until I saw that schematic I posted above (still can't find part #s for that sear+spring assembly, in case anyone can help there).

It looks on the schematic like the old and new style sears are very similar to one another, to the point of possibly being interchangeable maybe with some minor modification? Before grinding away at the chassis, I definitely want to get an idea of what's involved in the mods you guys have done.

[bodywerks]

Yes the sears are interchangeable, but converting from a side bolt release to a bottom bolt release is a step backward. Its definitely easier to inlet the XLR stock for your existing sear.
You won't find the bottom release sear or associated parts at brownels. They are a gunsmith-only restricted item and need to be ordered direct from savage. If you are insistent on doing it the hard way and know a gunsmith that can order the parts, i can get the part numbers for you tomorrow.

[Nandy]

iotarho, many people with low post sometimes post a question and never come back so i wanted to make sure you were active. score putting any time on this. anyway, I think it will be easier to just dremel the stock for the side sear. if you don't want to do that then getthe bottom sear but the problem will be the sear spring for the new sear sits in a pocket on the action. you will have to recreate this in the old receiver. I might have. chance to snap some pics today.

[stangfish]

If you wanted a sear, joining and posting in the want ads someone like myself could help you. The spring is a different story. SSS maybe for both.

[iotarho]

Thanks guys for the help. My first Savage (bolt action, that is) hence just a few posts. But i definitely like how helpful folks are. The hunt for a new sear and sear spring is on. I'll keep checking in for pics and/or parts #s that anyone might have a chance to post and put up an update if I have success.

[bodywerks]

If you insist:eek:
Sear pn is 105741
Sear pin pn is 105707
Sear spring pn is 105706
About $10 total. Catcher is you'll need to have/be a gunsmith to order these parts.

[Nandy]

Im with everyone else in here, I think you are going the wrong way about it but it is doable depending on how crafty you are and what tools do you have available to you. You will see the side release bolt sear on this picture because that is the one I have in this gun since i wanted to get away from the bottom release. I forgot to add a picture of the bottom release bolt sear but I will try to remember later.

This is how the sear will look in the action. You should be able to see how the sear spring is set in reference to the trigger housing, sear and sear pin.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn215/nandy_temp/20131002_142101.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn215/nandy_temp/20131002_142150.jpg

This one is without the trigger, see how the sear spring is "embedded" on the action.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn215/nandy_temp/20131002_142522.jpg

Here is without the sear spring. Creating that "pocket will be the biggest challenge if you want to go to the bottom bolt release sear.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn215/nandy_temp/20131002_142543.jpg

this is how little I had to remove from the stock. You will have to take about an 1 1/4" wide, about 1/2" deep and about 1/4" thick of material to fit the side release. With a dremel tool that is very doable. Without a dremel it will be a little more challenging but I am sure a drill will get you there.
It is your choice.
Good luck!
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn215/nandy_temp/20131002_142710.jpg

[iotarho]

Awesome, thanks nandy for the pics and bodywerks for the part #s. Super helpful--a picture is definitely worth 1000 words. Nandy, is it right that the bottom release bolt sear is almost identical to the top release in your pictures, except the release mechanism 'dangles down' to mate with the trigger release?

I should have mentioned the chassis I have is 6061 aluminum, so no easy dremeling a recess in a wood stock :/. I can do the machining myself, but then the question becomes whether I want to mill material from the chassis versus add two blind holes for nesting a sear spring in the action.

For only $10, I'll get the parts Bodywerks mentioned and make some proper measurements before making a final decision. At least one part of this mismatch might still show up in the classifieds here before too long.

[stangfish]

Great stuff Nandy.

[bodywerks]

Awesome, thanks nandy for the pics and bodywerks for the part #s. Super helpful--a picture is definitely worth 1000 words. Nandy, is it right that the bottom release bolt sear is almost identical to the top release in your pictures, except the release mechanism 'dangles down' to mate with the trigger release?

I should have mentioned the chassis I have is 6061 aluminum, so no easy dremeling a recess in a wood stock :/. I can do the machining myself, but then the question becomes whether I want to mill material from the chassis versus add two blind holes for nesting a sear spring in the action.

For only $10, I'll get the parts Bodywerks mentioned and make some proper measurements before making a final decision. At least one part of this mismatch might still show up in the classifieds here before too long.
I don't think you need to even do all that(drilling blind holes in the action). You should be able to get some type of spring to work. All it has to do is return to the cocked position.
Not that I'm recommending it, but if you happen to be using a SSS comp trigger the sear spring isn't even really necessary, as the return spring on the sear cam has enough pressure to lift the sear as well. Ask me how I know...

[Nandy]

yes, the bottom release sear has an "appendix" that meets the. trigger guard mechanism.

thanks stang, just trying to return the favor.

[jbjh]

Yep Stang is right that it's an XLR

Have you reached out to Kyle at XLR? As the maker of the chassis, he might have a solution for you and I hear that his customer service great.