Sharp Shooter Supply Comp trigger install: Down the rabbit hole

[JW]

Fantastic!
I am glad you got it worked out
I just wish I had replied sooner LOL
No need for a "reward" we are all here to help each other
That is what makes this forum so good
Just glad I could help and you got your trigger working, your going to enjoy it.
Jack

[thermaler]

Fantastic!
I am glad you got it worked out
I just wish I had replied sooner LOL
No need for a "reward" we are all here to help each other
That is what makes this forum so good
Just glad I could help and you got your trigger working, your going to enjoy it.
Jack
Thanks so much--what a gentleman! In that case I can hope I can return the favor somehow. : )

[FW Conch]

JW, if you could get a couple of pictures up of what you are explaining, it would be very helpful :-) Thanks!.....Jim

[thermaler]

Assuming I did this right--I think this is what he meant:

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s388/triggerpull/sss_zps658fa6c4.jpg (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/triggerpull/media/sss_zps658fa6c4.jpg.html)

[JW]

JW, if you could get a couple of pictures up of what you are explaining, it would be very helpful :-) Thanks!.....Jim

Please let me explain how I came upon this:
I am one that if it can be done wrong, I usually do it and then spend a lot of time trying to figure out what I did LOL
I really thought that I would be the only one that would install like this lol
The ss trigger is the best trigger that I own and I in no way think there is a problem with it ( I actually have 2 and planning on the 3rd)
The easiest way I can think of explaining this is:
the ss trigger module sets on top of the original trigger frame
What I am calling the frame is the part that is left on the action after you remove the factory trigger
If you try, you can put the module inside of the frame at the tang end and still be able to install the pin that holds the trigger in place
I think I had to work pretty hard to get it in the way described LOL
This locks up the safety due to not enough clearance creating the problems thermaler described
When the module is installed correctly the tang end of the module will be setting on top of the frame and actually be able to raise up and down ( rock) a little bit with pin installed
If I remember correctly there are actually two small tabs on the back of the module that are actually setting on the frame (tang end of module)
I hope this helps
I can post some pictures on this but it will have to be in a few days if needed

[JW]

I was typing when you replied
That shows exactly what I was talking about
Thanks
for the help
Jack

Assuming I did this right--I think this is what he meant:

http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s388/triggerpull/sss_zps658fa6c4.jpg (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/triggerpull/media/sss_zps658fa6c4.jpg.html)

[thermaler]

I was typing when you replied
That shows exactly what I was talking about
Thanks
for the help
JackTheir instructions aren't exactly clear on this since they clearly say "install trigger inside factory frame" and if the safety binds they recommend putting a shim in between the trigger and frame. Instead of three pages of text this one picture would probably do the trick : )

[FW Conch]

Thanks JW and thermaler! That picture is worth a thousand words. I'm going to "man up" here and confess that you guys aren't the only ones that were confused about this process. That picture added to the SSS instructions would have made it a lot easier to understand. Thanks again :-) !....... Jim

[bythebook]

I did not think of this when I first read your post as I thought I was the only one dumb enough to have done this ! It took me about 3 hours work to figure out that I had not ground enough away from the bracket and that the trigger goes on the outside. If you don't grind back enough it will not let the trigger fit on the outside.

[bodywerks]

Wow! I'm surprised you were able to jam the back of the trigger in between the bracket, but I'm glad you got it sorted out.
I'm not sure what kind if trigger pull weight you are looking to achieve, but do understand that the core means of adjusting trigger pull weight on the trigger is by adjusting the amount of sear engagement. The trigger return spring does very little to adjust weight. In fact, i tend to run the trigger return force about 75-90% maxed out(this will only account for about a half pound of pull weight). I then fine tune the pull weight by adjusting the amount of sear engagement (for me, a target shooter, engagement is minimal, like .004-.006"). This results in a 18-20 oz total pull and hardly any creep.

[thermaler]

Yes--I know that. My first over-riding concern is to get a clean but reliable break and a safety setting that makes it nearly impossible for an AD. After that, the trigger pull adjustment is secondary in importance to me and anything in the 2-3 lb range is OK by me, especially since this isn't 2-stage. I prefer alot of sear engagement surface contact because I'm just that way. I give myself credit for the possibility of doing stupid things like dropping a rifle onto concrete or out of a stand.

[bodywerks]

Definitely ensure that the safety engagement is set properly. Its pretty easy. So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD. Engaging about 1/2 the sear will give you the pull weight you're looking for, and still crisp.

[thermaler]

Definitely ensure that the safety engagement is set properly. Its pretty easy. So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD. Engaging about 1/2 the sear will give you the pull weight you're looking for, and still crisp.Already fully adjusted to where I like it and installed--as soon as the rest of my components are in and installed I look forward to posting sub-MOA groups here. : )

[Nandy]

So long as you keep the safety on while carrying you'll have no worries about AD.

Im not sure of that, at least on savage bolt rifles. The safety only blocks the trigger but does not keep the sear from slipping. The only true way to make sure your gun will not go off is not to have the bolt closed with a round in. I have been doing that for years, bolt dont close until I see the deer in front of me.

I do have the sss competition trigger and to be honest I have set it under 8 oz and still not have a discharge by banging the rifle hard. The Rifle Basix I was able to set really low and get it to discharge but my trigger scale only goes down to 8 oz so I might have gone past the trigger specifications.

Thermaler, glad to see you got it to work. I installed mine a month or two ago and like it.

[stangfish]

I give myself credit for the possibility of doing stupid things like dropping a rifle onto concrete or out of a stand.

A sign of intelligence not stupidity.

[Dennis]

Don't feel bad. I did the same thing a few years ago. But somewhere I saw a picture of an installed trigger and noticed the rear just rest on the bracket and not inside. I don't remember where I saw the picture. But I installed it like the picture and all was great. I wish I would have seen this thread earlier.

Dennis