111 hunter trigger adjustment

[thermaler]

The spring in the lower left of your picture is just the bolt release spring and shouldn't have any bearing on the sear. In that trigger, the spring to the right is applying tension against both the trigger pull and the sear. There should have been a second spring holding tension against the sear.Take that trigger spring off altogether and I'm willing to bet you it makes no difference in the pull you need to get the sear to break if your trigger is truly the same as mine.

[stangfish]

There should have been a second spring holding tension against the sear.


The firing pin spring does that for you. The bolt release spring is what resets the sear.

[thermaler]

The firing pin spring does that for you. The bolt release spring is what resets the sear.Thanks stang. Most of the adjustments I've seen to sears involve "lifting" the sear up slightly with a screw (not sure if them's the right words) reducing the pressure needed to get the sear to break.

[stangfish]

If you lft the sear to trigger relationship you have changed creep. Creep is how far you have to pull the trigger before it breaks. This is the savages achilles heel. Geometry needs to be changed to really make big improvements.

Also... When you change the amount of trigger movement rearward you change or reduce the overtravel. On a savage you need to have enough overtravel for the sear cocking arm* to travel far enough for the cocking pin on the bolt to travel unmolested.

[Wildboarem]

Stangfish is on the right path. The savage trigger/firing pin interaction is different than most triggers I've dealt with. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Stevens trigger looks a lot lime an accutrigger except without the safety features. I just bought a 116 for a build for my wife. Even with the trigger return spring adjusted all the way in ( trigger bar, meaning lighter trigger pull) the trigger was still to heavy. I think it was a stock 3.5# spring. That trigger return spring is what will adjust the the pull weight( correct me if I'm wrong please). So I found out that our good buddy Jim @NSS has 1.5# springs. Swapped out springs, trigger is lighter but not too light, viola. Also, as long as you don't remove any significant material, polishing the sear and trigger won't make it unsafe. Dremel with a cotton top and some flitz or jewellers rouge with just make it butter, or at least margarine..

[JWW123]

look at the axis trigger modification thread ,adding the set screw and i think the #2 spring should help i have done this to a couple of model 10 and am pleased

[jonbearman]

I know the trigger pictured is different from the original 2 screw trigger but the mount looks the same,why wouldnt a sav-2 rifle basix nit work?

[Blitzfike]

Jim at NSs indicated that the Sav2 would work on my new style stevens 200 trigger, and I believe it is the same trigger we are looking at here, or doggone close. I will go back and revisit the axis trigger mod, that may be my answer. I have the trigger on mine working smoothly, just too heavy. Thanks.. Blitzfike