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handirifle
09-29-2013, 04:44 PM
It sounds to me as if the action is not seated fully in the stock. If the recoil lug is bottoming out and you tighten the front action screw it will tend to "bend" the action. The lug should NOT touch the stock, on the bottom, just at the rear of the lug. That is the only thing I can think of. You have checked the crown on the barrel for nicks/dents I assume?

And we are certain it is NOT the scope/mounts, correct?
Also the barrel IS free floated from front to the barrel nut?
One thing to try on the action bedding, is cut some cardboard about as thick as say a cereal box, and lay it beneath the action, between the action and stock. Then tighten the action screws according to specs, and try again.

handirifle
09-29-2013, 04:53 PM
Stangfish, when I tighten the front bolt it tightens and stops-couldnt turn it anymore if you tried. The rear, however, you can keep tightening and tightening. In fact you can hear the stock kinda crackle and pop when tightening the rear screw.

I know this has probably been asked a thousand times, but where can I find detailed instructions on bedding? There doesnt seem to be m uch to bed behind the magazine with the bolt release cutout and the marterial relieved in the rear pillar area.

This post right here tell me the action is not seating. The action should ALWAYS make full contact with the stock, bedded or not, and no matter if the pillars touch or not. When the rear causes noise when tightened, it is not pulling on a seated action, it's pulling on wood that does not clear the action and is interfering. Also, the front screw bottoming out, tells me the front has too much material relieved, allowing the action to "jump" at each shot. Try a couple layers of the cardboard first, then remove them until problem reappears. I still say its a bedding issue. Something needs to be relieved in the rear to allow the action to seat, and the front needs to be built up a bit.

I know its all a pain, but when you get this fixed, you WILL remember what causes this particular problem.

NASIROKLA
09-29-2013, 10:16 PM
ok. experimented with cardboard shimming and found that a single layer near the front action screw almost eliminated the snap crackle pop when tightening the bolts. it also stopped the springing of the action when loosening the screws. So' now do I
1. Try to shoot it while shimmed?
2. Muster up the courage and bed it myself
3. Call savage and see what they have to say

BTW.The barrel is completely floated and the recoil lug is not bottoming out

willyp
09-30-2013, 04:56 AM
Read and study up on bedding your own gun! It is not as hard as you think. I was the same way 30 years ago! If you think you didn't do it right,it is not hard to remove it and start over.
There are lots of " how to" instructions on here and you tube,check them out.

stangfish
09-30-2013, 06:49 AM
Can you show us a picture of your target? Have you adjusted the parallax on this scope correctly. You may be aware of this but the adjustment on the left side is not really a side focus. It is used to remove parallax, If you set your rifle on a bench or table and without any contact with the rifle or the table it is sitting on while looking through the scope can you move your head around and the crosshairs remain in the exact point of aim. If not this could be at least one of your problems.

JASmith
09-30-2013, 09:40 AM
Stangfish, when I tighten the front bolt it tightens and stops-couldnt turn it anymore if you tried. The rear, however, you can keep tightening and tightening. In fact you can hear the stock kinda crackle and pop when tightening the rear screw.
I had the some problem with my Model 16 Weather Warrior -- until I discovered that the rear screw is the trigger guard screw and anchors into the plastic of the stock and not the action. It took less than 10 inch-lb torque to strip those plastic threads. Most of the on-line references, including those from Savage, did not alert me to this. I found out only after discovering the problem and digging deeper.

Your stock might be similar and it is worth checking.

handirifle
09-30-2013, 11:26 AM
ok. experimented with cardboard shimming and found that a single layer near the front action screw almost eliminated the snap crackle pop when tightening the bolts. it also stopped the springing of the action when loosening the screws. So' now do I
1. Try to shoot it while shimmed? YES! In fact add shimming until ALL the crackle stops. This isn't permanent, it's a test.
2. Muster up the courage and bed it myself YES! But not before you trim away all the contact areas. That is a must.
3. Call savage and see what they have to say NO! No need. they will tell you nothing compared to the info here. Trust us we are giving you experienced info here.

BTW.The barrel is completely floated and the recoil lug is not bottoming out Good


Read the bold words

stangfish
10-01-2013, 12:50 AM
Handi, You made the points.

One word when your done my friend...Satisfaction!

kingzero
10-01-2013, 09:19 PM
You can also make shims from an aluminum can too.

Bedding a rifle is easy.......BUT you need to research. Release agent is your friendHopefullyfuly these guys get you squared away and that rifle shooting better.

Good luck.

NASIROKLA
08-08-2015, 02:50 PM
Ok so nearly 2 years later i grew enough courage and bedded the stock. It didnt turn out the best as there were a couple small voids in the bedding( didnt use enough epoxy). As far as the the mag goes i cut the L off the clip and used a couple dabs of epoxy putty to hold the mag in the stock.

I went to the range and it still shot like crap. So i bought a set of dies, some powder, and some bullets. Went to the range today and was able to get sub moa groups! Night and day difference! The gun is now a shooter!

Tom Thomson
08-08-2015, 05:54 PM
I recently had the same issue with a 110 in 308 except the stringing was horizontal. Turns out that the scope was scooting in the rings just a tad with each shot.
tommyt