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jordan
09-17-2013, 05:21 PM
Couple quick questions..can it be done with just any jb weeks such as something i could grab from home depot? And does kiwi natural shoe polish with as a release agent with it? I'm trying to avoid having to order from online.

LoneWolf
09-17-2013, 05:34 PM
You would be better off buying a kit that is designed for rifle bedding.

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JWW123
09-17-2013, 05:51 PM
gray JB weld will work fine, shoe polish dont know about as have never used it but it should work,i use a spray release agent good luck you can do it

BillPa
09-17-2013, 06:50 PM
Couple quick questions..can it be done with just any jb weeks such as something i could grab from home depot? And does kiwi natural shoe polish with as a release agent with it? I'm trying to avoid having to order from online.


Yes, the JB and Kiwi will work just fine. Personally I use both Devcon Plastic steel and aluminum F/F2 depending on the job and Kiwi or Johnson's Paste wax for release.

Bill

Nandy
09-17-2013, 09:50 PM
I have used the jb weld and kiwi shoe polish in 3 stocks and so far is working fine. Let it sit for about 20 to 30 min after mixing it so it will be more of a peanut butter consistency. Do not use the 5 minute neither, it is just too fast for the process. Good luck.

jhelmuth
09-17-2013, 09:53 PM
You would be better off buying a kit that I'd designed for rifle bedding.

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id like to know more about that kit...

LoneWolf
09-17-2013, 10:02 PM
id like to know more about that kit...

Typo met "is/was developed for glass bedding."

Look up match grade bedding compound.

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floydboy
09-18-2013, 08:38 AM
Like Nandy said is good advice. It is too runny right after it's mixed. I've done over 5 rifles with JB weld and all work fine. Cheap, easy, no problem filling in voids if you have one. Definitely recommend for the first time job to see what your up against. I used a Johnson paste wax also. The first time is the worst. Very nerve racking but pay attention to what your doing and I bet you'll be surprised how good it turns out. If you have a void or two fill them in and put it back together until it sets up. If the edges are a little rough just file or dremel them as smooth as you can live with. Good luck.

Floyd

jordan
09-18-2013, 09:55 AM
Thanks guys. I will give it a shot! Sorry for all the typos. I was sending it from my phone from work and didn't realize it auto corrected... Just to be clear though... How exactly do i use the shoe polish? Also i drilled out the action screw holes for pillars but they just barely fit. As in i have to pound them in with a mallet.. How do i widen those holes just enough to fit epoxy around it?

Nandy
09-18-2013, 04:44 PM
The process on how to bed a stock been cover many times. You might want to use the search button. There is this article which is where I based my process on: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
It is very good.

To answer your questions, The shoe polish is your release agent and works together with the tape and playdoh (plumber putty is preferred by others) creating a very thin film that will allow you to remove the action from the stock and keep the bedding material from being pretty much mechanically bonded to your action. At the same time it is so thin that it does create a very close female mold of your action which is what you are looking for. You apply it to the action and buffer it. Tape is applied to another areas like the recoil lug. Playdoh or any other putty like material will cover orifices such as magazine wells, trigger group area and such.
Yes, you do have to make a hole large enough so the pillars can come in and out freely and the bedding material can flow. You might have to add a second "hand" of bedding material from the bottom of the stock for the pillars to be bedded properly. The holes in my boys stocks are little over 1/4 inch. I did my first bedding with a 3/8 hole because I was affraid to hit the reinforcement bar these stocks have. The holes were very tight for the jb weld to flow easily so I had to wait for the jb weld to be hard enough so I could rotate the stock and apply a second batch of jb weld and even as runny as it was it was a little more work than I wanted to do. Last boyd stock I did a 1/2 inch hole and that was a lot easier. I still had to do a second batch but it went a lot easier...

Read that article, it is really good and will give you a good idea on what are you after. Make sure you apply the release agent/tape/putty to all parts, not just what you think will get bedding compound in it.
Good luck.

jordan
09-18-2013, 05:31 PM
I understand the concept, I just didn't know how exactly the shoe polish in particular should be applied. light or heavy, buffed or "gooped"... etc. haven't seen specific instructions for the use. tends to just be: "apply as release agent".

I know I have to widen the holes just wasn't sure about the easiest way to do so. I have half inch holes with half inch pillars. Without simply jumping up to a 5/8 drill bit and re-drilling the holes that is.

FW Conch
09-18-2013, 06:41 PM
Just be sure to put the shoe polish on evenly and cover everything. Good Luck :) ......Jim

Nandy
09-18-2013, 06:52 PM
You have to realize I dont know you level of skills and the questions were very basic so I guess I got the wrong impression. I will let someone else answer your questions in the spirit of not telling you more stuff that you already know.
Good luck.

brtelec
09-18-2013, 07:13 PM
I apply shoe polish thin and evenly and then buff it to a high polish. That makes it very thin, to achieve the best fit of the metal to the bedding compound.

pdog2062
09-18-2013, 08:10 PM
The hardest part is waiting to take it apart the first time and wondering if it will come apart at all

mattri
09-18-2013, 09:23 PM
This has been covered as noted but a couple things are worth repeating.

1) Mask off everything!! Yes everything. I've used J-B Weld to bed a number of stocks and it works great but you will be amazed where some of that stuff ends up.

2) Apply your release agent to everything that you don't want bonded together- yes everything! Again, in the process of bedding a rifle you will end up with whatever bedding agent you choose in places you didn't think possible. Yes this is a giant pita to clean up but it is much, much better than the alternative.

3) Be prepared to re-bed. Don't know which action you're bedding but with pillars, and especially with a stagger-feed mag well I have found that the best, cleanest jobs are doe in at least 2 stages. Others on here may have better skills and/or more experience but for me a clean solid pillar bedding of a stagger-feed means having it apart a couple of times. Not that you have to re-do everything but there are going to be areas you want to fill in a little more, or dremel out and correct etc- its a personal choice for sure.

Wait at least 24 hours before trying to pop it out of the stock. Trust me on this one.

What are you bedding?

jordan
09-19-2013, 08:29 AM
Nandy i apologize if i offended you. That was not my intent. I am doing a 243 centerfeed that i am hoping to convert to a 6.5 creedmoor single shot. I made my own stock out of a blank so there is no way i have the wood working skills to make a really tight fit in the action area hence the bedding question.

Geo_Erudite
09-19-2013, 04:57 PM
Have you looked into Marine-Tex gray (not the white) I have read about a lot of people using it for bedding. I have not used it, but it seems to come at a good price, compared to Devcon Plastic Steel putty.