Bought my first Savage - 110, still not sure how I made out..

[Joseywales]

I'm no collector. Mainly hunter and shooter and honestly haven't hunted in years. But the opportunity could present itself for varmint hunting and I had been wanting a 243. A 110 was for sale locally, so I went to check it out.

- this is the long action 243. Not the medium J action, or the short action.
- The stock was 95% or better. It looks real nice, with raised comb, etc.
- The pad was worn on the edges
- the barrel had some areas of surface rust, which concerned me. 0000 wool would take some of it off, but there would be pits in areas for sure. Barrel is free-floating.
- Bushnell 3-9 Sportview (I valued that at $0).
- Bore looked good. I have to say, I prefer checking guns indoors, in good light, rather than outdoors.

Anyway, I ended up paying $275 for it. I wasn't thrilled, but the stock was so darn nice and I wanted a Savage without the accutrigger. My guess was that the action alone would be worth at least $225.

I took the gun apart and found some interesting things:

1 - the stock bolts were flathead, the trigger guard was Phillips. Are these bolts normally ALL Phillips? The one bolt looks to have been cut on an angle, so I'm wondering if someone lost the bolts and replaced them.

2 - I did end up with a few spots of pitting. The rest of the barrel looks really good. Bore looks excellent and was very clean.

3 - I did find surface rust in spots around the action (very faint). and also inside the magazine follower on the flat spring. Are Savages known for rusting easily? I have never, NEVER, had a gun rust on me. All I ever do is wipe them down before putting them away and never had an issue.

4 - The trigger does have the 3, actually 4, screws for adjustment. But it doesn't feel bad, so it's not a priority for me.

I haven't fired it. In fact, it's the only gun I own that isn't in a safe right now, because I have no ammo in the house for it!!! I gave all of my 243 ammo to my brother last year, when he decided to take my deceased dad's Interarms 243. Really nice gun, but too heavy for my liking.

So, hopefully it's accurate and fun to shoot. It's weird, because I've never been so undecided about a gun I actually bought FTF. I've bought some online and had concerns, until they arrived, but never been so unsure of a gun that I actually handed. Very strange.... I have been wanting to go 6.5x55 and if I decide I can't live with the barrel on this Savage, I still have the long action and might consider ordering a 6.5x55 barrel for it.

Anyway, I've joined the Savage family and look forward to being a member here. Thanks for a really nice forum.

[Rifleshooter308]

The long action flat back recievers with the old triggers are my favorite. Those triggers can be tweaked to be really nice. I have mine downt o 2lbs that breaks like a candy cane. I refinish guns using Cerakote and KG Gunkote so I can tell you the rusty spots can be easily taken care of. Finally you have the action which can be changed to any caliber made with a barrel, bolt head and possibly mag swap out. The 6.5x55 uses the .473 bolt head so all you need is a barrel. As far as action bolts usually the two actual action bolts are flat our rounded Allen heads. The rear trigger screw is just that a screw not a bolt as it just goes into the stock to hold the trigger guard. I have seen these both phillips head and allen head.

You got a great deal as the going rate for a LA/ with bolt is around $225-$250. Nice find. I'm sure it shoots like a typical Savage.

[Joseywales]

Thanks for info. I have long known that Savage actions are desirable and their guns are unusually accurate, so I figured I wouldn't get hurt.

To clarify, you think the bolt will work with 6.5x55 USA ammo? I know the Euro 6.5 has a slight different rim, but I'm sticking with USA ammo/brass, which would be the same as the 30-06 rim.

You mentioned mag swap out, but it's a fixed box magazine, where only the follower can be removed. I would think the only issue could be the longer, heavier 6.5 rounds, but 140 should fit fine? I might just have to try some rounds in there to confirm.

If it shoots as a 243, I'll leave it alone. I have some 30-06 rifles that are also prime candidates for a 6.5 conversion.

[thomae]

Welcome. I think you will like this forum. Lots of helpful folks are here willing to help you out.

It sounds like a nice rifle. Without looking at it, there is no way to tell, but from your description, I think you probably paid a fair price for it. A little oil and rubbing with something just barely abrasive (a piece of cardboard or a dish scrubbie sometimes works if you don't want to use steel wool)elbow grease and steel wool will take care of the rust spots and they won't affect shootability. One never knows. The previous owner could have stored it in a damp basement or garage without a dehumidifier.

The rear trigger guard screw is simply a screw with threads similar to a wood screw that goes into the stock. The other action screws or bolts are machine screws. The stock could have been replaced at some point. Maybe the original action screws got lost? One never knows. Most of my action screws have been replaced with allen-head ones, so mine don't match my rear trigger guard screw wither.

Can you get your brother to give you some of the ammo back? Do you reload?

You should be able to adjust the trigger you have so you end up with a very crisp, clean-breaking release. Since this is a hunting rifle, you won't be worried about a super light trigger weight, but, to me, a smooth trigger with a clean release always feels lighter than a bad trigger.

The fact that it is a long action lends itself to increased flexibility if you should decide to change to a different chambering. the 6.5 Swede, although it CAN work in a short action, certainly is easier to work with in a long action rifle.


Please take a minute to familiarize yourself with the standing rules of the forum. Most of them are here:
http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?24732-User-Agreement


Many of the questions you may have (either now or in the future) may already have been answered, so please try searching for answers. If you don't find what you need, please don't hesitate to ask in the appropriate section of the forum.


In general, you usually aren't the first person to not know something or to have a specific issue. We've all been there at one time or another and are happy to help you learn from OUR mistakes instead of making your own.


By the way, we also look forward to learning a lot from YOUR experiences. Please post some photos when you get the chance.


Again, welcome.

[Mach2]

Is the stock pillar bedded? If not you can add pillars yourself for zero dollars: 3/8th " drill bit, lampshade rod, glue.
Sounds like you have some sticker shock. It will pass soon. You got a fine rifle at the usual price maybe less. A new one like it runs about $500. 243 works on varmint to deer.

[Joseywales]

Is the stock pillar bedded? If not you can add pillars yourself for zero dollars: 3/8th " drill bit, lampshade rod, glue.
Sounds like you have some sticker shock. It will pass soon. You got a fine rifle at the usual price maybe less. A new one like it runs about $500. 243 works on varmint to deer.

Thanks Mach2. Not really sticker shock, so much as this is the worst condition gun I've every bought. And truth be told, it's really not bad at all! I just never actually bought a gun with even slight rust. The 0000 wool did a great job on almost all of it.

um...lampshade rod???

[Mach2]

Thanks Mach2. Not really sticker shock, so much as this is the worst condition gun I've every bought. And truth be told, it's really not bad at all! I just never actually bought a gun with even slight rust. The 0000 wool did a great job on almost all of it.

um...lampshade rod???

Lamp tube. Go in the attic and grab any old lamp that used to be in the living room. Cut it to length.
you might wanna reblue the metal. Get some gun blue and slop it on and leave it 60 seconds. Then oil. A copper penny is good to scrape rust but a pit is a pit. A little rust remover will help clean it too.

[Joseywales]

Lamp tube. Go in the attic and grab any old lamp that used to be in the living room. Cut it to length.
you might wanna reblue the metal. Get some gun blue and slop it on and leave it 60 seconds. Then oil. A copper penny is good to scrape rust but a pit is a pit. A little rust remover will help clean it too.

Thanks. Yeah, on the rust, I used the 0000 wool the other night and gently got all of the rust off. All that is left are some small areas of pit marks. Without those, the gun would be overall 90-95%. I'm not that worried about it. I keep mine oiled, clean, and dry so it should be much of an issue.

[Willoughby]

the 4 screw trigger is a plus
I have one that's set just under a pound on a older 110e varmit rifle-love how it breaks

[Joseywales]

the 4 screw trigger is a plus
I have one that's set just under a pound on a older 110e varmit rifle-love how it breaks

Thanks. I had done a decent amount of research before buying the rifle and did read where folks really like the older "4 screw" trigger. I haven't tried an accu-trigger myself, but always seem to drift towards older guns, etc.

[handirifle]

The magazine well (mag box) CAN be easily removed and changed. Most of us here use a screwdriver and hammer. DO a little research to get the details. If you go to a 6.5x55 you may have to change it, if there is a baffle in the factory one, for the smaller 243 cartridge. Going to one for a 270/30-06 cartridge will give you a LOT of flexibility in bullet seating for the Swede. But, if yours does not have the baffle, there's no need to swap it out.

[JWW123]

on the 3 110 short actions i have the mag box is shorter than the 30/06 mag box all started out as 243 load it up and go shoot it luck jw

[big honkin jeep]

I have obtained several of the older long action rifles with flat head action screws so I'm pretty sure they at one time came from the factory that way. No need to remove the trigger guard screw unless changing out the trigger guard. It's easy enough to swap out the action screws for allen head or torx if you prefer but the length is important. If they are too long you'll have to trim them down or they will bind the bolt. Same thing for scope base screws. If too long they will bottom out on the bolt binding it and wont seat fully against the base.
Go out and shoot that puppy.

[Willoughby]

Quote Originally Posted by Willoughby View Post

the 4 screw trigger is a plus
I have one that's set just under a pound on a older 110e varmit rifle-love how it breaks
Thanks. I had done a decent amount of research before buying the rifle and did read where folks really like the older "4 screw" trigger. I haven't tried an accu-trigger myself, but always seem to drift towards older guns, etc.
I am a big Accu -trigger fan
I have replaced all but this 4 screw with Acccu trigger which is a much safer design -only reason this one didn't get changed out- is how it breaks & its the only Non factory trigger other than the Accu trigger I could get anywhere close to a 1 lb of pull with

[dogngun]

I'd shoot it with the old Bushnell scope, too...they get a lot of bad press but they are not really bad scopes if you don't have to adjust the crosshairs too much. It will probably surprise you...in a good way. I'd leave it as a .243 as well.

Many years ago I bought a beat up Savage 110 .30-06 for dirt cheap. Someone had painted the wood stock flat black so it would be "tactical". I stripped and hand oiled the stock, cleaned up the metal and used a little cold blue where it was needed and it was THE most accurate center fire rifle I have owned since the 1970's. I just bought another '70's era 110 a few weeks ago. They are really fine rifles, and I think you got a good deal on it.


mark

[boltguns]

I would have paid that price for that gun no problem, in fact I've done it before. What makes it an excellent buy is that it will be as reliable and probably more accurate than other sporter weight rifles costing a few hundred or even many hundred dollars more. Another bonus is that they are easy to work on, have excellent adjustable triggers, and an abundance of pretty cheap used parts including often minty take-off barrels and stocks.