PDA

View Full Version : Bedding a rifle- why tape the recoil lug?



doninva
02-10-2010, 01:39 AM
Have bedded a few rifles. Made a pillar for 10-22 and bedded. Just bought a Stocky's laminated thumbhole for my Stevens 200 and want to bed it when it gets here. Have always bedded the recoil lug on all sides, front and back of action and at least 2" of barrel in front of recoil lug. I noticed some put tape on the sides and bottom of recoil lug. What does this do for you. Have I been doing it wrong. I am set in my ways but can be taught new tricks, even though I'm old ;D. Thanks, Don

trappst
02-10-2010, 01:46 AM
Have taped front and sides of the lug most of the time.....taped only the front of the lug on a BVSS stock once using Devcon. The fit was VERY tight!!!!!

I'm sure someone else can give a better explanation but taping the front and sides will greatly reduce the chances of creating a mechanical lock.

BTW, I use several layers of tape and SSS recoil lugs.

Uncle Jack
02-10-2010, 02:04 AM
Really, the only place that the bedding makes a difference is the rear of the recoil lug where it comes in direct contact with the stock. As stated above, bedding the sides and front of the lug only increases your chances of turning your rifle into a one piece gun.

uj

tammons
02-10-2010, 02:37 AM
You want pressure from the action screws only at those locations at the bottom of the action.

If you dont tape the bottom and sides of the lug when you bed, you risk putting uneven pressure on the bottom of the lug.

The lug should only take recoil on the back face.

Blue Avenger
02-10-2010, 09:23 AM
that why the accu stock pinches it from both sides?

Uncle Jack
02-10-2010, 09:35 AM
Probably an engineering answer to squeezing the recoil lug flush against the stock.

uj

pdog06
02-10-2010, 09:48 AM
that why the accu stock pinches it from both sides?


Unlike an accustock, you cant unscrew the bedding when you remove the barrelled action. Try taking the action out of an accustock gun without removing that third screw ;).

2 layers of tape is not much, but just enough for some breathing room. The only place the recoil lug matters and needs contact is the rear of the lug.

358Hammer
02-10-2010, 10:31 AM
I have always from day one refused to bed the bottom of the recoil lug because;
1. Recoil lug is for recoil. Not a perch for holding up the barrel.
2. Having recoil energy transmitted down into a hard surface and then back up through that recoil lug into the barrel in my thinking anyway was changing the harmonics of the barrel.
3. Then when the stock does the flex thing do to any number of reasons, humidity,cold,hot weather one will change the Point of Impact because the lug is being pushed from either the bottom or sides.
4. Personally, I have never seen an accustock. I am going to guess however than I will not see one on the firing line of a benchrest match. I know from speaking with a number of smiths who are working with them that they are NOT user friendly when trueing and putting on larger recoil logs.

Neal

jo191145
02-10-2010, 12:18 PM
Most if not all savage factory lugs are a smidge thicker on the bottom. Could make for a nasty problem bedding four sides.

Only two rules for bedding a Savage.
Never bed the barrel nut.
Never bed the bottom of a recoil lug.

Anything else is fair game. You can always hog the bedding back out.
Always better off switching to a machined recoil lug.

doninva
02-10-2010, 12:30 PM
Thanks, that all makes sense. I have never used tape, just the release agent that comes with Accu-glas. I have had some tight ones but they all came loose with a little force ;). I will tape the lugs from now on. Don

calib
02-10-2010, 12:49 PM
would you guys use the tape and release agent or one or the other

Harriershot
02-10-2010, 12:55 PM
My .02 cents.
I have always taped the bottom with three layers of masking tape. There is a multitude of reasons for taping the bottom, it is a must! I use kiwi shoe polish, and I apply on all tape surfaces as well for an easier release. I have never had a release problem with Kiwi and Devcon 10110, I put two to three coats of the Kiwi on everything, clay or tape where I don't want it to go and let it set for at least 24 hours.
One of the previous posters makes a good argument why to tape the sides so an atmospherically changing stock does not push on the lug and effect POI. My counterpoint to that is I remove about a quarter inch of wood just about anywhere I am going to put the Devcon, this makes for a really thick bedding base. Sort of like a thicker foundation for a house.
One thing I feel strongly about is using Devcon over Accraglass. The two aren't even close in terms of strength and durability. Anybody who knows their stuff will tell you Devcon is the only way to go.

Good luck

Charlie

EFBell
02-10-2010, 01:23 PM
would you guys use the tape and release agent or one or the other


both if you want to get it out.

Appleseed
02-10-2010, 01:32 PM
Had bedding under both till reading this post. Just relieved that a few minutes ago and will try it. Still a little contact on one side of barrel nut. Had some walking around with groups on the 20vt.

Winds at 30-50mph here today, kinda blustery for target shooting.

Snakum
02-10-2010, 10:16 PM
On my Model 70 synthetic I used Devcon and Kiwi clear, as well. But because the recoil lug already has a taper I didn't tape the lug on any side. I didn't think about the issue you guys mentioned on the bottom of the lug, though. It seemed to work fine though the fit is tiiiight tight. :)

Appleseed
02-17-2010, 12:59 PM
Shot the 20vt with bedding removed from the nut and lug areas as suggested. What a difference it made. Shooting .4" or better at 100yds 5 round strings now. Haven't bedded the rear pillar yet.