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Nandy
08-08-2013, 09:43 PM
That is a good choice, it covers pretty much every game animal in North America. Shots at 300 yds are very doable depending on your marksmanship. Go with 180 grain. Reloads will prove better if you are looking to shoot those distances. I will be a bit nervous shooting anything that is not hand loaded over 200 yds.

fgw_in_fla
08-08-2013, 10:53 PM
Ahhhhh yes.... The 30.06. I just got mine tuned in with 180gr Nosler BT's & Speer Grand Slams. I think you'll do well with that.

By the way, did you ever get the bullet unstuck from the old barrel? how far in was it?
I can't recall ever getting a bullet jammed in the barrel that I couldn't persuade to come out using a solid brass rod or even a piece of oak dowel.
You must've really got it jammed in there.

Chrazy-Chris
08-08-2013, 11:22 PM
Ahhhhh yes.... The 30.06. I just got mine tuned in with 180gr Nosler BT's & Speer Grand Slams. I think you'll do well with that.

By the way, did you ever get the bullet unstuck from the old barrel? how far in was it?
I can't recall ever getting a bullet jammed in the barrel that I couldn't persuade to come out using a solid brass rod or even a piece of oak dowel.
You must've really got it jammed in there.

Thanks for the encouragement- I just picked up a box of Nosler Trophy Grade factory ammo which has a 180gr polymer tip AccuBond bullet I plan to use for elk. I've always shot my dad's reloads for Nebraska mule deer, but with my recent experience I just don't want to risk another squib before my first elk hunt. I don't have high expectations for the factory ammo after shooting nothing but handloads out of my 270, but as long as it isn't awful I think I should be able to hit the broadside of an elk.

After bending a 3/16" steel rod trying to hammer that bullet out of there, I finally gave up. It was all the way at the rear of the barrel, so I was trying to hammer it out from the front. I think this may have been my biggest mistake since it was a solid copper hollowpoint. I likely beat the bullet until it expanded even further into the riflings. It just didn't make sense at the time to try and drive it all the way through the barrel when I could SEE the back end of it when I looked down the back of the barrel with the bolt removed and the light just right. I did try beating on it from the rear, but at that point the damage had likely been done. I was still completely dumbfounded when I marked on my STEEL rod the position the depth of the bullet, hammered on it for a matter of 10minutes until my hand was numb and the rod was bent, then check my mark and the barrel hadn't budged a single millimeter.

When I do get the balls to go back to shooting my Pa's handloads, I'll never buy him any solid copper rounds for him to load for me again. He's already thrown away the batch of powder and case of primers used for these loads. He takes his loads very seriously and was extremely disappointed in this whole event. On the bright side, I took the opportunity to go up to a more ideal caliber for elk and decided while I was at it to upgrade the stock to a B&C Medalist. I'm looking forward to my ol deer rifle with a tune-up and makeover.

In addition to the Nosler rounds, I also bought some Hornady and Winchester 150 grainers just to help break in the barrel with and compare group sizes.

Nandy
08-08-2013, 11:56 PM
The way I look at it the situation got you to upgrade. I would bet anything that load did not have any powder if any. I had one such round one time, but it did not got stuck. Lucky me but it prompted me to weight my loads. Any big difference and the load will be taken apart. I have not yet fund one but being that my loads are all over 55 grain it will be supper easy to see the difference. Good luck.

fgw_in_fla
08-09-2013, 01:08 AM
Those Nosler / Federal Vital Shok cartridges for $45 a box is what prompted me to start rolling my own. Using those was the first time I ever shot a group of 5 rounds & it looked like a clover leaf. It was love at first group.

At 45 samolians a box of 20 I needed to take out a mortgage for a weekend of shooting.

And to think you scored a better barrel all because of a lil' 'ol bullet stuck in the pipe. It seems to me the Savage Gods have smiled upon thee. Here's where your OCD / Savage Addiction begins.
Lots of luck with the new barrel.

OLEJOE
08-09-2013, 11:28 AM
Try a box of Hornady SUPERFORMANCE 180 gr. Boattail Spire Points or SST's. I've shot these in several different 06's and got amazing groups for factory ammo. I've also taken whitetails with it and it is awesome. 5 shot groups in the .2 to .3 range !

Chrazy-Chris
08-09-2013, 06:48 PM
Thanks for the recommendations! I'll keep those in mind for sure.

emtrescue6
08-09-2013, 08:09 PM
I suspect you will be very happy with the Nosler ammo...the do good work! You will also be very impressed with the Accubond bullet...I use them in several loads including my primary deer and elk loads in .308 and 270WSM.

My suspicion is that the squib round was powderless...based on the location of your bullet, it is most likely that the bullet was pushed by the primer only. Seen similar incidents before...not fun.

Chrazy-Chris
08-10-2013, 02:24 PM
Here is a picture of the stuck bullet- so close but so far:

This is taken looking to the rear of the barrel with the bolt removed.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/9481000152_a5ebbe4d4b_c.jpg

Here is the carnage this little guy caused:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2894/9481000528_e681dd1875_z.jpg

I started a sort of "build" thread in the pics forum to document my re-build and upgrades and get a fresh start on the progress: http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?27523-My-Plain-Jane-Beat-Around-Reliable-Good-Ol-Huntin-Rifle-Upgrade-Build&p=199151#post199151

243LPR
08-10-2013, 03:23 PM
When you get the barrel off you can drill it out from the chamber end.

Dispatch1
09-22-2013, 03:06 AM
Chris, I know I am late in joining this discussion but what I would like to address is a possible safety issue with the reloads. If you had a very light powder charge in the reload that caused the problem you might possibly have an over-charged cartridge in your father's reloads somewhere. I had an occurrance when using my powder charger that the powder had jammed in the drop, resulting minimal to no powder in the case. When the next case was being charged the vibration loosened up the 'jam' and powder spilled out over the top of the case. This is obvious in normal powder loads, but if making reduced powder loads(hence less volume in case), and a faster burning rate powder esp as used for cast bullet loads, you might have a reload that is overcharged in that batch and EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Just passing this on and hope it is helpful.

Chrazy-Chris
09-22-2013, 10:45 PM
Chris, I know I am late in joining this discussion but what I would like to address is a possible safety issue with the reloads. If you had a very light powder charge in the reload that caused the problem you might possibly have an over-charged cartridge in your father's reloads somewhere. I had an occurrance when using my powder charger that the powder had jammed in the drop, resulting minimal to no powder in the case. When the next case was being charged the vibration loosened up the 'jam' and powder spilled out over the top of the case. This is obvious in normal powder loads, but if making reduced powder loads(hence less volume in case), and a faster burning rate powder esp as used for cast bullet loads, you might have a reload that is overcharged in that batch and EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Just passing this on and hope it is helpful.

Thanks for the warning, Dispatch (no pun intended). Neither my Dad nor I have a .270 anymore, so I'll probably throw out the rest of these loads. He's pretty set on trying to figure out what went wrong, so if I do give them back to him I'll pass on the warning and make sure he carefully weighs each load. I don't think he used a progressive for these, since it was in the load development phase and he was measuring out several different weights of powder.

M_Trivette
09-23-2013, 11:58 AM
I'd take them apart and dispose of the powder no matter if they weighed or not.

I like the Hornady collet bullet puller a lot for disassembling ammo. If used properly you can remove bullets from brass without even leaving a mark on the projectile.
It sucks about the stuck bullet but at least you were paying attention and didn't attempt to load another round and fire it. Good luck on your new barrel.

Michael

Nandy
09-23-2013, 01:27 PM
I use the RCBS inertia puller. it works great for me and RCBS does stand behind their products. in about 8 years I have broken the screwing tap and the puller itself. both times I have received a replacement. for me it is RCBS first then the others... good luck!