Caldwell lead sled or higher mag scope?

[trigger-finger]

Understood, tyler.woodard04.
Being a computer engineer and advid bowler, I already suffer from corporal tunnel. My wrists, elbow and shoulders are sore enough. Shooting a 308 with a sport barrel and plastic stock is going to cause me pain if I shoot it right or not. The limbsaver helps but still causes muscle bruises which last for weeks. So for me the sled is a great relief at least while learning and getting things dialed in. I could see where stopping all recoil could cause problems and think this is the cause for scope gettting shook loose. Plan on replacing base and rings with weaver 3 screw extra high rings and rail so that I can keep limb saver in place to absorb impact of gun to sled and still have correct eye relief.
Pretty sure the source of my problems is not related to knowing how to shoot but it's more related to rings not holding 0.

[Nandy]

I dont recall seeing this asked in the thread but what do you want to do with the rifle, what is it main use? Target, hunting, just plain ol' fun shooting... etc...

[trigger-finger]

I dont recall seeing this asked in the thread but what do you want to do with the rifle, what is it main use? Target, hunting, just plain ol' fun shooting... etc...

The main use of this rifle is training with goal being long range shooting. Can only train at max 200 yards where I live but plan on shooting 1000 yards plus in time.

I started with a fairly basic rifle to force myself to learn to overcome any shortcomings rifle may have through skill and knowledge of equipment and shooting. Didn't want to build a custom rifle until I shot well enough to know which customizations would make me a better shooter.

Learned here, how vital it is to have quality bases and rings which "hold zero ". I always only thought holding zero being the quality of the scopes itself. So, I ordered the Weaver Savage Short Action 0 MOA extended rail and the Weaver Tactical XX-high 6 hole 1" rings.

[Mach2]

I use Warne steel rings on one of my Savages. They are heavy but incredibly sturdy.

[stangfish]

I don't think I have a bad scope. The Nikon 3-9x40 is pretty bright and clear.

These two statements are unrelated.

[trigger-finger]

These two statements are unrelated.

That's Deep...

[Nandy]

I understand not wanting to spend 3k in a rifle when you are starting which is fine. My "custom" 7mm rem mag is around 2k and shoots .2 at 100. Im sure it will do better with a better shooter. What are your expectations for your rifle as far as accuracy? Stock I will say you are looking at 1.5 to 1 inch if it is all right. Once you get that you will have to start upgrading to get that number to shrink. Pairing with an experience shooter will be best. I have got a lot of good info at the range talking to the guys that know what they are doing. You will find many wannabes that talk more than what they shoot. Look for the guys that are shooting and grouping good. Generally those are the guys that if willing to help will give you great info. Check with the range master, he generally knows who is bsing and who is real...
Good luck.

[trigger-finger]

Those are some big expensive rifles you have there Nandy and .2 MOA proves it is worth it.

I am still learning what I like and don't like in a rifle. Once I exceed the MOA of this rifle I will sell and buy a better one. I probably won't do 308 again, more likely 223 or 270 calibers with a heavier barrel and muzzle brake to reduce recoil.

Would like to get into competition shooting since I don't have many opportunities to hunt in CA. So would rather practice in an urban target environment simular to police or military.

[Nandy]

The 30-06 shoots CTBST right around 1/2" at 200 yds and that is a sporter barrel from Adams & Bennett (back when they did savage prefit) that I paid about $70 for it brand new. Back then their regular price were around $100. Never heard anything bad about their barrels... You dont have to break the bank...
The beauty of savage is that you can keep the old barrel (unless it is all shot out), get you a new barrel in the new cartridge that tickles your fancy, do the barrel change in your garage (no smith needed, we are here for you), bolthead change, mag change (if needed) and you have a new rifle. Want to go back to the .308 because whatever? take this new setting down, put the old one back and there you go... There is a table somewhere in this site where you can look at the boltheads by size and see which caliber is compatible with it and not even having to change the bolthead when switching barrels...
I went from 30-06 to 7mm rm and I thought I would never go back to 30-06. I got another action and set that one for the 30-06 because some how I was feeling "undressed" without it.... It's back to shoot clover leaves with a new bullet/load (cant get the CTSBT anywhere to try that old load). With that one action you can pretty much shot everything (single shot that is) under the sun that is standard shank. You might want to look in the future for a long action, that way you should be able to shoot your LA cartridges in that one and your SA cartridges on the action you have now and have better luck at having a repeater.
Savage are more than just a good cheap gun, they have potential to be turned in almost any bolt gun you like...
Good luck!

[Mach2]

that's deep...

lol!

[trigger-finger]

lol!

Just didn't know how to respond to that one Mach2. By the way I really like those Warne rings. Are the Maxima detachable rings any good? I would like to keep current 3-9x SFP add 6-25x Mil FFP. But have them be easily interchangeable.

Thinking of Weaver 4-20x50mm FFP.

[trigger-finger]

Just left range today. The method using the sled of aiming at o taking a shot. Continue to aim at o but move your reticles to be POI of you last shot. Set POA back to o should be pretty close if you didn't change you POA. Down side for me is I don't have tactical turrets, mine require using a nickle or screwdriver as its just a little recessed slot. So it's impossible to keep POA (look through the scope) and adjust sites at the same time.

Long sorry short The Nikon 3-9x40 kit scope is inadequate for my needs. Will upgrade to better scope.

[390fe]

I'm a firm believer in muzzle brakes - it sure helps on my Savage .308.

[Nandy]

Just left range today. The method using the sled of aiming at o taking a shot. Continue to aim at o but move your reticles to be POI of you last shot. Set POA back to o should be pretty close if you didn't change you POA. Down side for me is I don't have tactical turrets, mine require using a nickle or screwdriver as its just a little recessed slot. So it's impossible to keep POA (look through the scope) and adjust sites at the same time.

Long sorry short The Nikon 3-9x40 kit scope is inadequate for my needs. Will upgrade to better scope.
Why are you doing that to zero your scope? Lookt at your impact and make adjustments. Lets say your impact is 2 inches high and 1 inch to the right at 100 Yds then you move your adjustment 8 clicks down and 4 to the left.
Every click in that scope will move your impact 1/4" at 100 Yds so just do the math. I am sure that is the most effective and used method.

[Wogger]

Why are you doing that to zero your scope? Lookt at your impact and make adjustments. Lets say your impact is 2 inches high and 1 inch to the right at 100 Yds then you move your adjustment 8 clicks down and 4 to the left.
Every click in that scope will move your impact 1/4" at 100 Yds so just do the math. I am sure that is the most effective and used method.

+1 To This ^^^

Trying to hold the rifle after the shot and adjust the scope to the point of impact is not at all advised.

[trigger-finger]

I am no longer convinced my scopes clicks are that accurate. Also, I often shoot at different distances do the number of clicks also changes. I have eliminated human error with the sled. The method works great it showed me to realize accurately how many clicks gives me an inch of movement.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4

[Wogger]

I am no longer convinced my scopes clicks are that accurate. Also, I often shoot at different distances do the number of clicks also changes. I have eliminated human error with the sled. The method works great it showed me to realize accurately how many clicks gives me an inch of movement.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4

Everyone shoots different distances.
One click = 1/4" at 100 yards.
That doesn't mean that one click will always equal 1/4". You have to learn how your scope works and do the math.

One click =
1/8" at 50 yards
1/4" at 100 yards
1/2" at 200 yards
3/4" at 300 yards
1" at 400 yards
And so on...

[trigger-finger]

Everyone shoots different distances.
One click = 1/4" at 100 yards.
That doesn't mean that one click will always equal 1/4". You have to learn how your scope works and do the math.

One click =
1/8" at 50 yards
1/4" at 100 yards
1/2" at 200 yards
3/4" at 300 yards
1" at 400 yards
And so on...

I am much more or a visual person. Clicks and math while shooting are not intuitive to me. Would prefer having a smarter scope so the windage elevation and ranging can all be done through the scope without clicking anything. I.E G2MDR or btr-mil with MIL turrets.

Here is the situation. I was able to nail the target repeatedly by holding over and using the bottom of second bdc circle on reticle. When lining target at center of reticle I was shooting three inches low at 25 yards. How many clicks would that be? 1/16 at 25 yards right 48 clicks up. What happens with that 0 when I go back to shooting at 100 yards? Too much math for me to do while shooting looking for something more intuitive.

For me I prefer having all the information on screen BDC riticle falls short as it only does elevation. FFP would allow the measurements of reticle to be accurate at any zoom again eliminating more things to remember i.e. am I at the right zoom for reticle measurements to be 3.6" . I really only want to have to adjust turrets when the shot is beyond the limits of the reticles.

I'm sure everyone shoots and thinks differently. I'm more likely to use Kentucky windage as this would be more repeatable for me than remembering how many clicks I made and more adjustable on the fly. So I have decided my next scope must be MIL/MIL and FFP.

I really like this one.
http://www.bushnell.com/tactical/rifle-scopes/elite-tactical/ers-6-24x-50mm-mil-dot#

[Mach2]

By the way I really like those Warne rings. Are the Maxima detachable rings any good? I would like to keep current 3-9x SFP add 6-25x Mil FFP. But have them be easily interchangeable.

Thinking of Weaver 4-20x50mm FFP.

I have used the detech rings. They are precise. Probably about the best made for retaining accuracy. They are very easy to detach as well.
A 50mm bell is pretty big. I have a 44m that does the job.

[trigger-finger]

I'm now wandering if I will really need two scopes. Will probably just go with the Warne permant 6 screw 30mm tactical on the Bushnell or Weaver and call it a day. Scope once zeroed is never coming off and I will never go back to the Nikon BDC SFP from Mil FFP, so no need to interchange.

Can I get anything for Nikon 3-9x40 BDC. Would let it go for$100 bucks....

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4