Broke torx bit removal?

[RazrRebel]

I finally acquired a 110 BA in 338 Lapua Magnum. First thing was to remove the rail to mount a new mount. The forward three screws came out easy. The last one the torx bit broke. I have tried to pick it out but no luck. What should I do next? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do most of my work myself. If drilling it and extracting is next what kind or brand of drill bit should I get? I think a really good drill bit or set would be the most important thing. Taking it to a gunsmith where I live is out of the question. Really rural area. Just a little info if anybody could help?

[stangfish]

Center punch and drill it out. I have come close to doing the same thing. From that point forward I take a punch large enough to cover the screw head (as not to damage the socket hole) I take a small hammer and strike downward on the screw. This breaks the screw free from any adhesive forces and allows you to use much less force to remove those base screws.

Good Luck

[missed]

Heat up the receiver to about 325-350 and touch the broke off screw with bees wax then center tap then attempt to extract screw. Some heat and bees wax will kill the Loctite and get you some lube down the hole.

[BillPa]

The last one the torx bit broke.

Are you talking about the torx bit itself or the screw head?

Bill

[stangfish]

Are you talking about the torx bit itself or the screw head?

Bill My understanding was he broke the bit Bill. If that happens the splines are twisted and it is very tight. There may be other ways but if you drill down the center eventually you will cut the head off. Then lift off the mount and using some needle nose on the remnants of the screw it comes right out. Would you do something like that?

[RazrRebel]

Yes the torx bit. I've tried to pick it out but it's flush with the screw. I figured center punching and drilling was all I had left. Stangfish thats what I was thinking too. As long as I dont hurt the action I'm allright. I don't want to hurt the rail but I am replacing it. The biggest question is I'm pretty sure I don't have any decent bits at home. Local might be out of the question here too. Any certain kind or brand?

[BillPa]

Yes the torx bit. I've tried to pick it out but it's flush with the screw. I figured center punching and drilling was all I had left. Stangfish thats what I was thinking too. As long as I dont hurt the action I'm allright. I don't want to hurt the rail but I am replacing it. The biggest question is I'm pretty sure I don't have any decent bits at home. Local might be out of the question here too. Any certain kind or brand?

I'd drill it out, but the drill would depend on the torx bit. If its of the Chinese variety a regular drill bit might work. If its like my Hilti bits you might need carbide, they're hard buggers! If you can cut it I'd used a 3/32" or #40 bit to drill out the center leaving the splines behind and use a pick to remove them or break them loose a center punch then remove them ....hopefully!

Of course if you can cut the bit you could just drill out the screw head and deal with the screw shank later.

Bill

[BobT]

Have you tried a magnet? If there is any wiggle in the broken piece it should work. I break Torx bits fairly often changing inserts on cutting tools, sometimes a strong magnet will pull them right out. If not then you'll probably need a carbide drill to get it out, they are usually fairly hard. Turn it at higher rpm and unless you have a steady hand, use a drill press and vise, take your time, it isn't worth ruining the action.

Bob

Looks like Bill types faster than me :)

[FW Conch]

Next time you do this, heat the screw with a small soldering iron. If you notice resistance, "bounce" the wrench, rather than trying to break it loose all at once. It's a "feel" that comes from the "misery" of having been there in the past:( The quality and hardness of your screw will determine how easy it will be to punch and drill it. Don't even start without a good quality bit. When I worked Industrial Mantinance, I discovered "left twist" drill bits. They can be gotten mail order from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Usually all that is needed is to get the "left twist" bit to bite and the remaining screw will twist right out. Saved my "fat" many times:) When you reinstall, don't use "Red" Loctite! Good Luck:).....Jim

[stangfish]

Yes the torx bit. I've tried to pick it out but it's flush with the screw. I figured center punching and drilling was all I had left. Stangfish thats what I was thinking too. As long as I dont hurt the action I'm allright. I don't want to hurt the rail but I am replacing it. The biggest question is I'm pretty sure I don't have any decent bits at home. Local might be out of the question here too. Any certain kind or brand?

I like the left hand drills too. Listen, If you can find a drill bit with cobalt in it the will last longer when drilling hardened material.

[eddiesindian]

Im constantly breaking torx bits at the Ford shop I work at and Ive found that shocking the bolt with a light hammer and a magnet have work,d for me. Get good solid flat smacks on it, grab a powerful magnet and see if it pulls it. If the torx splines are twisted in the bolt (extensively), then use a small hardened center punch and reverse rotation of the broken torx bit head.
After I broke 3-4 bits, I spent a little extra $$$ and purchased hardened torx bits from Snap On.
I can almost bet that they may have used just a little to much thread lock on "that" particular bolt...or...they stripped the threads

[RazrRebel]

Thanks guys I'll post back results tomorrow evening. At work now, won't have time till tomorrow. Thanks again!

[missed]

The center punch may be enough to dislodge or shatter the Torx bit.

[FW Conch]

One more brainstorm? If it came down to it, "I" would rather sacrifice the rail than damage the action. You could cut the rail with a Dremel tool so that the screw is undamaged, then, as mentioned above, remove the screw with pliers???

[Mach2]

338 lapua MAGNUM. Geez!
What's it like shooting that thing? Howz about a thread on that sucker?

[BobT]

One more brainstorm? If it came down to it, "I" would rather sacrifice the rail than damage the action. You could cut the rail with a Dremel tool so that the screw is undamaged, then, as mentioned above, remove the screw with pliers???

If you are going to sacrifice the rail then you can use a cut off wheel in a Dremel to cut a screw slot in the screw head and the Torx stub and try that.

Bob

[FW Conch]

Great idea BobT! That way the rail may even end up useable. The scope ring would probably cover the damage. If he's lucky, the punch, pick and magnet may do the job! :)

[RazrRebel]

Got it, the Center punch and drill worked. Had to fab up some jaws to hold the action and used my drill press. I was worried about it, but it came out pretty good. As for shooting its new, haven't yet. Thanks for the help. Oh yeah bought the extractor and bit set from midway. Worked really good.

[FW Conch]

I love a success story! There's always enough knowledge around here to solve Savage issues! :-)