BAS screw removal - won't budge

[blfuller]

I was going to replacing my bolt handle on my M10 Precision carbine, BUT...

This will absolutely NOT budge. I have tried the on-the-floor technique to no avail. I put it in a vise and heated it up with a propane torch, nothing. I am employing the lefty-loosy technique by turning it counter clockwise. Letting it cool now.

Am I missing something?

[CharlieNC]

Try shooting some Kroil into the bolt and let it soak in overnight.

[geargrinder]

Try shooting some Kroil into the bolt and let it soak in overnight.

+1

Then try the floor technique, but have your mother in law step on it. Just kidding.

Some can be really tough. My first one was. It was on the floor and when it let loose there was a really loud bang. I thought it punched a hole through the sub-floor.

[thomae]

Heating up the BAS won't help because you are making that metal expand. If you use heat, you will want to warm the bolt body into which the BAS goes.

I would try the floor technique with a dead blow hammer on carpet or wood. It is likely that the back of the spring is digging into the underside of the BAS possibly creating a "lockwasher" type situation.

When you used the floor technique, did you actually stand on either the allen wrench or the bolt handle (Depending on which way you had the bolt laying on the floor)?

[blfuller]

Heating up the BAS won't help because you are making that metal expand. If you use heat, you will want to warm the bolt body into which the BAS goes.

I would try the floor technique with a dead blow hammer on carpet or wood. It is likely that the back of the spring is digging into the underside of the BAS possibly creating a "lockwasher" type situation.

When you used the floor technique, did you actually stand on either the allen wrench or the bolt handle (Depending on which way you had the bolt laying on the floor)?

I jumped on the bolt and the allen wrench on a rubber door mat over concrete. I even had my MIL do it for good measure. Then I took the heat to it and...

Well $%#@$*^%$. Can't believe it. I let it cool and looked at my bolt and well, I toasted the bolt body. The cam area where the cocking piece rides, just forward of the bolt handle is cracked. Now I need a new bolt body. All I wanted to do is keep from racking my knuckles on the scope.

Thanks for all the help anyway.

So since I'm replacing it, any recommendations on a replacement or should I just go with a factory type?

[thomae]

All I can say is "Wow!" I've never heard of a BAS on that tightly. Sorry to hear your sad news. :sorrow:

(Maybe you can con your MIL into buying you a new bolt body?)

I have heard good things about the PTG bolt bodies (different diameters so you can custom fit your action for less slop), but I have also never heard anything bad about the factory bolt bodies either.

p.s., I'm glad I didn't come over to your house to help and end up being blamed for breaking it! :whistle:

[Silvercrow1]

Holy Smokes! Man..sorry to hear about that! Do they put the BAS on with an air wrench at the factory??

I am very fortunate..just modded my bolt handle and I have the old school flat slot BAS! Thank God the previous owner didn't have it tight! Gonna have to think about replacing it with the allen head style if adaptable.

Will you be able to salvage any parts or are you going totally new-everything?
Brian

[stangfish]

Pad your vice and capture the bolt handle. Use a cheater bar or an allen head socket with a breakover bar. Done deal.

[blfuller]

Holy Smokes! Man..sorry to hear about that! Do they put the BAS on with an air wrench at the factory??

I am very fortunate..just modded my bolt handle and I have the old school flat slot BAS! Thank God the previous owner didn't have it tight! Gonna have to think about replacing it with the allen head style if adaptable.

Will you be able to salvage any parts or are you going totally new-everything?
Brian

It appears I will be able to salvage everything except the bolt body. I guess I was lucky.

[stangfish]

You could get the PTG in the .700 or .701 size