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concepthomes1
07-20-2013, 02:44 PM
Barrel length is 22". Action screw spacing is 4.5" so Short Action. Trigger has never been worked on to my knowledge and it doesn't appear to have been. Not sure of poundage on trigger break but it is extremely smooth and has ZERO creep. I just apply some light pressure and it breaks clean.

Mach2
07-21-2013, 01:41 AM
Thanks for the fototour. I suppose the most obvious difference in the 80s Stevens is the flat rear receiver top. There re some minor differences in the trigger spring mechanism. The wood stevens stock is a nice advantage of the older rifles. You can't just go out and buy that wood stock today. It makes your Stevens unique in a way.
You may have a pre lawyer trigger since you have a nice low pull.
One of my fav tools is a trigger gauge. I use it not just to set a low trigger pull but to set all my triggers at the same pull. Knowing the pull weight is like knowing the 1/4 mile time on a sports car.

CharlieNC
07-21-2013, 01:46 PM
You have one of the nice old multi-screw triggers, which has quite a bit of adjustment capability for both trigger pull and sear adjustment (I think there is a discussion about this in the Tech section). An easy mod is to replace the "heavy" trigger spring with lighter wire; send my your info and I will send you a piece if you are interested.

Mach2
08-08-2013, 02:28 AM
Bump

If youre still there. Have you tested the rifle to see how it groups? I can see in the foto that the stock has no pillars. I was curious how well pre pillared wood stocks grouped. The pillar bedding was a simple but major advancement that most all manufacturers utilize now. Pillar bedding is so effective that it has basically rendered moot most bondo and epoxy bedding methods.




http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s19/reflexhunter1/StockBottom.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/reflexhunter1/media/StockBottom.jpg.html)http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s19/reflexhunter1/StockTopside.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/reflexhunter1/media/StockTopside.jpg.html)

concepthomes1
08-08-2013, 09:35 PM
Bump

If youre still there. Have you tested the rifle to see how it groups? I can see in the foto that the stock has no pillars. I was curious how well pre pillared wood stocks grouped. The pillar bedding was a simple but major advancement that most all manufacturers utilize now. Pillar bedding is so effective that it has basically rendered moot most bondo and epoxy bedding methods.

Still here. I've got a few threads showing my progress. Next step is the Duracoat on the action and barrel. Also going to refinish the stock before reassemble. My plan is to have the rifle ready to shoot by Oct 1, then sight in for hunting season on Nov 15.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

handirifle
08-09-2013, 10:24 PM
I'd bet money, it's a "J" series. Mid length action. Barrels are interchangeable with Savage, and I think bolt heads are too, not much else though.

stangfish
08-09-2013, 11:21 PM
I'd bet money, it's a "J" series. Mid length action. Barrels are interchangeable with Savage, and I think bolt heads are too, not much else though.
From the looks of it the trigger, trigger hanger, sear, pins and springs as well as the safety, the stock, the magazine and the action as well as the bolt and all its parts are interchangeable.

concepthomes1
10-09-2013, 08:24 PM
Thread resurrection. The stock is now stripped and waiting for a stain job. Still haven't coated the barreled action. Any ideas on the best way to get a good clear stain that shows the grain but is not shiny?

FW Conch
10-10-2013, 12:08 PM
For stain, it's hard to go wrong with "Minwax". It's not the stain that makes your finish shine, it's the sealer, or varnish, etc. Minwax makes a stain/sealer all in one but I don't recommend it for your application. What you want is a "satin" sealer, and there are lots to choose from. Polyurethane provides great wet weather protection. You tube has instructions on this process also, or you can get some good advise from the paint section at your hardware store. Good Luck......Jim

GaCop
10-11-2013, 10:00 AM
A good stain can be had in powder form from just about any wood worker supply site. Mix the stain with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, it won't raise the wood grain and you can control the depth of staining in the wood. Oil base stains on a Beech or Birch stock will only tint the wood because of the tight wood grain.

concepthomes1
10-12-2013, 11:22 PM
What's the best way to remove some sanding marks from the bare wood itself? I got a little sand happy removing the citristrip and used too heavy a grit.

Mach2
10-13-2013, 03:38 AM
Keep sanding using lighter and lighter sandpaper. you haven't messed up. You can even remove wood with a file or rasp if you want to reshape to your personal taste.

concepthomes1
10-13-2013, 07:19 AM
Keep sanding using lighter and lighter sandpaper. you haven't messed up. You can even remove wood with a file or rasp if you want to reshape to your personal taste.

Should I sand it dry or wet?

Chrazy-Chris
10-13-2013, 09:26 AM
Did you already dura coat? Dura coat is nice for the matte tactical look, but for the classic rifle with stained wood stock I think bluing is the way to go. Just my opinion.

Edit- let me help you out with your above question- since you're down to straight wood, go dry. I would stick with a pretty fine grit paper and not get too carried away.

concepthomes1
10-13-2013, 09:51 AM
Did you already dura coat? Dura coat is nice for the matte tactical look, but for the classic rifle with stained wood stock I think bluing is the way to go. Just my opinion.

Edit- let me help you out with your above question- since you're down to straight wood, go dry. I would stick with a pretty fine grit paper and not get too carried away.

I have not coated the barrel yet. Do you cold blue or rust blue?

wbm
10-13-2013, 11:25 AM
I would get a bottle of Oxpho Blue from Brownells. It is the best cold blue I have ever used. Just follow the directions and use fine steel wool to apply the blue.

Chrazy-Chris
10-13-2013, 11:38 AM
I would get a bottle of Oxpho Blue from Brownells. It is the best cold blue I have ever used. Just follow the directions and use fine steel wool to apply the blue.

+1 on the brownell's product. Make sure you check out their instructional videos on their website, they put together some really helpful ones on their refinishing products. I would blue the receiver and barrel at the same time so they match.