Boyds Tacticool for centerfire?

[burdickjp]

I'd take a DBM tacticool, as it'd prevent the amount of money I'd have to spend on my current stock.

[blvedere]

I have a couple tacticools on my rimfires and they feel good. A centerfire would be nice.

[missed]

If boyds would return a phone call we could get rolling on these!

[Willoughby]

does any one know how much a center fire tacticool stock weighs ?

[Chrazy-Chris]

+1 for the DBM tacticool! Finished or unfinished I don't care.

[M4J0R T0M]

Count me in for one center fire dbm tacticool. I love the one on my 10/22.

[missed]

We need boys to see this thread....

[M4J0R T0M]

What I don't understand is that they sell other stocks inletted for dbm guns but not the tacticool. You'd think there would be a bigger market for the tacticools.

[missed]

Yeah that's my too, and there pretty much the only stock I can just cut another bolt channel so it's on the correct side. Just wish they came in other colors than tacticool black.

[M4J0R T0M]

Midway sells some of the tacticool models unfinished.

[foxx]

I would order one as well.

Actually, I would get two. One for a .223 and another for a .260

[Clark]

I bought a 1988 Sav 110 223 at a gun show in Feb 2013, to use the action for this project.
I bought a TACTICOOL SAVAGE® 10 BLIND MAG SHORT ACTION CENTER FEED BULL BARREL CHANNEL LAMINATE STOCK W/BLACK TEXTURED FINISH (4300603-1G-203)

I have a 4.522" receiver, which I could find no aftermarket stocks, but I bought that Boyds that is meant for a 4.415" receiver.
I had to mill out the stock for:
a) longer action
b) 1/2" pillars instead of 1/4" screws
c) .240" thick SSS recoil lug instead of .150" recoil lug
d) 1.2" barrel channel, not 1.05"

I put a Lothar Walther 14" twist bull barrel on the receiver with no barrel nut, just a shoulder pushed up against the SSS recoil jug. I cut a .250" neck 223 chamber.

I painted the stock with 083-002-211ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, DESERT TAN aerosol one part epoxy paint in a cardboard box I heated to 90 degrees.
I made 1/2" aluminum alloy round rod into pillars pillars that fit the receiver's convex bottom.

I used Devcon PLASTIC STEEL ADEVCON 10110.

I drilled two 1/4" holes in the stock for a Karsten's Custom Cheek Rest A-Model.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/PillarbeddingSav110223BoydtacticalwithDevconSteelP utty9-16-2013.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/HomemadeAluminiumpillarfrom05instockwithtriggerrel iefcutforearly70sSav1109-16-2013.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/Sav110223glassbeddingbehindtherecoillug9-28-2013.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/Sav110223glassbeddingbehindtherecoillugb9-28-2013.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/Sav110223250neckLWCMbarrelBoydsTacticalstockSSSrec oillug9-29-2013.jpg
http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/Savage11022335grVmax13grBlueDot100yardsfirstgroupf romnewbarrel59-18-2013.jpg

Results:
a) The front screw goes from some resistance to tight as I can get it in 10 degrees [a good low compliance fit]. But the rear screw needs 60 degrees, I think because of the plastic trigger guard in compression.

b) I took it to the range on 9-18-2013.
I fired 3 shots to sight it in, and then shot 4 groups of 5 at 100 yards:
1) 0.426"
2) 0.533"
3) 0.533"
4) 0.900"

[seanhagerty]

very nice. I like your pilar bedding job. I have a rifle I have been considering doing that on as well, but I havent had the gumption to try it. You made it look easy.

[FW Conch]

Good work, and it looks like you got great results! But, JMHO, with all that good work, the rifle deserves a metal trigger guard. Good Luck-Good Shooting......Jim

[M4J0R T0M]

I bought a 1988 Sav 110 223 at a gun show in Feb 2013, to use the action for this project.
I bought a TACTICOOL SAVAGE® 10 BLIND MAG SHORT ACTION CENTER FEED BULL BARREL CHANNEL LAMINATE STOCK W/BLACK TEXTURED FINISH (4300603-1G-203)

I have a 4.522" receiver, which I could find no aftermarket stocks, but I bought that Boyds that is meant for a 4.415" receiver.
I had to mill out the stock for:
a) longer action
b) 1/2" pillars instead of 1/4" screws
c) .240" thick SSS recoil lug instead of .150" recoil lug
d) 1.2" barrel channel, not 1.05"

I put a Lothar Walther 14" twist bull barrel on the receiver with no barrel nut, just a shoulder pushed up against the SSS recoil jug. I cut a .250" neck 223 chamber.

I painted the stock with 083-002-211ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, DESERT TAN aerosol one part epoxy paint in a cardboard box I heated to 90 degrees.
I made 1/2" aluminum alloy round rod into pillars pillars that fit the receiver's convex bottom.

I used Devcon PLASTIC STEEL ADEVCON 10110.

I drilled two 1/4" holes in the stock for a Karsten's Custom Cheek Rest A-Model.



Results:
a) The front screw goes from some resistance to tight as I can get it in 10 degrees [a good low compliance fit]. But the rear screw needs 60 degrees, I think because of the plastic trigger guard in compression.

b) I took it to the range on 9-18-2013.
I fired 3 shots to sight it in, and then shot 4 groups of 5 at 100 yards:
1) 0.426"
2) 0.533"
3) 0.533"
4) 0.900"

That looks really well done and the results speak for themselves. Looks like you had to put in quite a bit if work. I'm seriously thinking about getting a tacticool to inlet for my 10 P-SR that's on order. I would have it much easier since the stock is designed for this model just without the dbm. Could you give any tips on what it took to do the inletting? What kind of tools you used and that sort of thing?

[Clark]

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/PunchingoutBoydsplasticshortypillar9-16-2013.jpg
I punched out the plastic partial pillar in the front.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/MillingoutBoydsSav110stockfor4375incenterstofit80s 4522incenteraction9-13-2013.jpg
Unlike most sporter stocks, this tactical stock has nice flat and square surfaces for putting it in the vertical milling machine [drill press with an X-Y vise for those of you in Rio Linda].
You can do it with chisels, files, Dremel tool, router, die grinder, drill press, etc. It is easier if you have a mill.

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/BoydsSav110tacticalstockfor4375incentersmilledoutf or4522in80srare1102239-16-2013.jpg
My action is too long, so I had to pick a point to make them match and waller every other hole over. I picked the rear action screw, so that the trigger inletting would stay the same. If I had to do it again, I would do that again.

[M4J0R T0M]

I'm thinking I might try to tackle the job now. I've never done any inletting before but I've always been the guy who tinkers and modifies everything. I'm pretty handy with a dremel and I'm going to be getting a drill press here pretty soon.

My plan is to remove the factory bottom metal and use it to trace an outline on the new a stock. Then I'll take my measurements for depth and lock the stock down to the press and start cutting. I'll probably use my dremel and sandpaper for the the finishing detail work. Does that plan sound like a good one? What types of bits were using in your mill/press?

[Clark]

Tom,
You should look for some used machinery. I got a Chinese drill press from a widow for free and then sold it. I got an American drill press from another widow that I paid for.

The X-Y tables for the drill press also go from cheap Chinese to expensive American
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html

The tool bits are better new.
From CDCO tools:
Roughing End Mills (Material M2-AL) Size: 3/8 Shank Dia.: 3/8 Flute Length: 7/8 Overall Length: 2-5/8 # of Flute: 4 49005 $7.00
I also get them from ENCO.

You should practice on a military take off stock or a piece of lumber, before you dig into a $125 delivered Tacticool stock.

[M4J0R T0M]

Tom,
You should look for some used machinery. I got a Chinese drill press from a widow for free and then sold it. I got an American drill press from another widow that I paid for.

The X-Y tables for the drill press also go from cheap Chinese to expensive American
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-cross-slide-vise-32997.html

The tool bits are better new.
From CDCO tools:
Roughing End Mills (Material M2-AL) Size: 3/8 Shank Dia.: 3/8 Flute Length: 7/8 Overall Length: 2-5/8 # of Flute: 4 49005 $7.00
I also get them from ENCO.

You should practice on a military take off stock or a piece of lumber, before you dig into a $125 delivered Tacticool stock.

I was actually planning on getting this press. (http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238-9067.html) Would this be a good cross vise? (http://www.harborfreight.com/5-rugged-cast-iron-drill-press-milling-vise-69159.html) I'll only be using these tools for home type hobby stuff so I don't want to spend tons of money.

[Clark]

I can't see if that vise will fit on that drill press table. If if does not, you would have to make an adapter, probably a piece of plywood bolted to the table, bigger than the table, that the vise can sit on and be bolted to.

It is a gamble. 20% of the Chinese stuff I get from Harbor Fright or ENCO is worthless junk. But at a tiny fraction of the cost of American, I have to keep taking the chances.