Poor accuracy from 12LPV in 204

[HOEING8]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a model 12lpv in 204. I have been disappointed in the accuracy. I've tried Hornady 32 and 40 grain loads as well as Winchester's 35 grain moly coated offering. I'm getting well over 1 inch groups at 75 yards shooting off of bags. The 40 grainers are the worst and the 35 moly coated shoot the best, but all are pretty poor.

A little background on the rifle:

I purchased the rifle from a Gander Mountain on closeout for a very good price. I'm not sure the date of manufacture, as it has a blind magazine not currently offered on the Savage website. I'm guessing it's a few years old. I noticed before buying the rifle that it had a ding in the crown. Gander offered to send it back to have it fixed, but I was told it would take 3-4 weeks. I decided to recrown the barrel myself to save some time.

What I've done the the rifle so far:
When I got it home I took the rifle down to action and barrel only and chucked the action in a lathe, with the barrel in a steady rest. I noticed at the time that the bore was not concentric to the outer contour of the barrel. It wasn't off alot, maybe .005 - .006 TIR, so I didn't worry about it. I recut a flat recessed crown, and then carefully deburred the bore exit by hand with a 90 degree pointed steel rod and some lapping compound.

After a couple of range sessions I felt that something wasn't right. The groups have all been poor but with no vert or horizontal stringing. Tonight I tried to slug the barrel. I started a lead ball in the muzzle and was only able to get about 4 inches in before it came to a stop. I don't how small the barrel gets at this point, as I was unable to bush it through with my cleaning rod. Looking into the bore, the barrel looks great and it cleans extremely easily.

Where I am now:
Obviously the barrel has a tight spot about 4 inches into the barrel. I have no idea how tight it gets and if it really indicates a serious problem. My theory is that I'm getting some blow by after the bullet goes through this spot. I even notice some black residue clinging to the side of the bullet holes in the paper plates I was using for targets.

I don't know where to go from here and am just looking for some advice. Are these guns really picky about the ammo they like? Should I try to develop some handloads or do you think it's time for me to get in touch with Savage. Or is there something else I should look at?

Thanks in advance.

[dcloco]

UGh......how many rounds down the barrel?

Have you cleaned it yet....I mean REALLY cleaned it?

204's can sometimes develop two nasty issues...carbon fouling or copper fouling...or both.

[HOEING8]

I have about 50 rounds through it and have cleaned it 4-5 times. It cleans very easily and doesn't take long to get a clean patch to come out of it. I don't think that I have any buildup in it. The bore is shiny after I clean it.

[trappst]

Try some naked 35g Bergers in it with BL-C(2) or benchmark.....be prepared to seat the bullets way off the lands too!

Shiny bore meaning what? Just looking through the breech end while pointing at a light source? Have you used any copper solvent on it like Sweets?

20 cals can be notorious for copper/hard carbon fouling!

[kkeene]

My 204 VLP did not shoot well (1 to 1.5 inch 5 shot groups) until I got about 100 rounds through it. 32 and 40 gr V-max's never shot better than 3/4 inch. I tried 39 gr Blitz Kings, BR4, and H4895. Now it is sub 1/2 inch with very high measured velocity's. Keith

[HOEING8]

Yeah, just looking through it at a light. It looks shiny and the color is that of the stainless barrel. Good point though - I don't even know that you would necessarily see the fouling. I've only used hoppe's elite and the patches come out pretty clean after 3-4 wet patches and 3-4 dry one. I'll try something a liitle better for copper fouling and see if that gets rid of the tight spot.

This is the first center fire rifle I've owned so the obvious to some of you might not be so obvious to me! Thanks

[HOEING8]

kkeene,

Thanks for giving me some hope. I've been wanting to try the 39 gr BK's with some VVN530. I'm just getting into reloading. I'll try some better cleaning and some more range time and see what happens.

Any ideas floating around the forum on how a barrel could get that much better by shooting 100 round through it? I can see some improvement with the bullet smoothing out the tool marks in the bore, but your experience seems extreme - going from marginal to tack driver.

[trappst]

Take a bronze brush and some good solvent and scrub the crap out of that thing. You'll be shocked at the crap that comes out!

I use Shooters Choice solvent most of the time but brake cleaner (no residue stuff) has been used at times with the really nasty ones. Sweets for the copper.

[HOEING8]

Trappst,

I just reread your post and noticed that you are recommending seating the bullets way off the lands. Is that by necessity due to the dimensions of the chamber/bullet or is that the sweet spot for you? How far is way off?

I don't have any real world experience with this yet, but have read that alot of people prefer to almost touch the lands with their handloads.

Tim

[kkeene]

Savage makes a great, usually very accurate rifle, but the barrels are a bit rough inside when new. An aftermarket barrel is often very good from the start but factory barrels are often not their best when new. Putting 75 to 100 rounds through the barrel often helps smooth it out and they often settle down. I will clean a new factory rifle with JB bore paste (a very mild abrasive) to speed the process. Use a bore guide and a quality cleaning rod.

The Savages tend to shoot really well due to the floating bolt head and factory pillar bedding. That being said, not all Savage varmint rifles are 1/2 MOA rifles as they leave the factory. I have 4 of them. 3 of them were great after nothing but a shooting break in. The 4th rifle took a little more work before it shot well.

Don't discount that part of the problem might be the nut behind the bolt (the shooter). No offense intended but I don't know your experience level. For example - on a good day I have shot several 5 shot 1/4 inch groups but on a bad day I have had trouble holding 1 inch groups with the same gun. Effects from how much sleep I had, amount of caffeine, mental attitude, weather conditions,.... Find someone with a good bench rest set up that is shooting good groups and ask for a little help. Have them look over the rifle / check the bedding bolt torque / have them shoot a group to see what the rifle is capable of.

If you have not bought dies yet I highly recommend Lee collet neck sizing dies. This is a product that is inexpensive but produces very, very good ammo!

Best of luck,
Keith

[trappst]

Is that by necessity due to the dimensions of the chamber/bullet or is that the sweet spot for you? How far is way off?

A bit of both. The 204 I had (sold it cause I don't care for the case) had a long throat but the thing preferred bullets seated way off the lands. Stand by for the OAL...gotta fire up the other computer that has all my reloading data on it. ;D

(elevator music playing)

sorry, it's an old and slow computer! Well gosh, I just used the factory OAL of 2.250" with a 32g Sierra. My best load was 28.4g Benchmark, Rem 7.5BR primer in Hornady brass. My notes don't show how far off that is but if I recall the 32's won't even reach the rifling without falling out of the case neck. **This is a hot load but showed no pressure signs in my rifle....work up to it, blah, blah!

[dcloco]

Same experience as Trappst.

Both of my 204's prefer any bullet to be 0.050" off the lands....up to 0.070" for the best accuracy.

[HOEING8]

Keith,

Thanks again for sharing your experiences with your Savage rifles. I will do some more shooting and see what happens. I am definetaly short on experience when it comes to shooting tight groups with this gun. When I was younger I was obsessed with getting my Marlin 880 (.22 lr) to shoot good groups and spent alot of time doing it, but this is whole new ballgame. I do have a good set of bags and was shooting off of a solid bench though.

I'm excited about getting into reloading and have read alot of good things about the Lee collet neck sizing dies along with the cast iron press. Thanks for the recommendation.

Is there a recommended torque spec for the bolts holding the action? After taking the rifle apart I went about finger snug plus a quarter turn.


Trappst,

Thanks for the reloading data and cleaning recommendations.


I'll report back after I get a chance to shoot some more and do some reloading.

I sincerely appreciate the help.

Tim

[dcloco]

Forgot to mention, the 0.050 to 0.070 off the lands is somewhat of a 204 specific item. Can work in other calibers, but the 204's seem to like a jump to the lands.

[kkeene]

I have a torque screw driver but I don't bother using it on my pillar bedded rifles. I snug the forward bolt tight, probably 45 to 60 inch pounds. This is pretty tight with a small screwdriver handle or allen wrench. The rear bolt is less critical and I don't tighten it nearly as tight - 1/2 to 3/4 what I torque the forward one. If the rifle is properly bedded you can usually feel the front bolt making contact and then it gets tight without having to turn the bolt very much more due to the pillar bedding as you are not compressing / crushing any wood. If not you may have a bedding problem. The rear tang on a Savage is supposed to be free floated.

The 204 throats are typically cut very, very long! I was told this was to keep pressures down. Pressures can spike very fast when you are talking about the small bores. I started with one caliber's worth (approximately .2 inches) of bullet seated in the case and never looked back. It was not near the lands in my rifles and it shot well so I never played with seating depth. I sacrificed a case by FL resizing and then splitting the neck. Seat the bullet slightly into the case, measure COAL, and chamber it. Remove it and check COAL, compare to the original measurement. Hint - when removing it do not allow the ejector to drag the cartridge through the chamber. Put your finger against the cartridge to keep it centered in the chamber as you extract it. I could not reach the throat on my 204 rifles when they were new. I would check your throat, but I would not recommend trying to jamb a 204 in the lands.

Varmint hunters understand that "speed kills". Try H4895, 39 gr BK, CCI BR4 or MAGNUM primers. Near full case w/o compressing the powder. Good accuracy and fast.

Do not use standard primers with the 204! You need a heavier (thicker) primer cup to prevent piercing the primers! BR4 and MAgnum primers have thicker cups.

Keith

[1Shot]

Do not use standard primers with the 204! You need a heavier (thicker) primer cup to prevent piercing the primers! BR4 and MAgnum primers have thicker cups.

Keith


..Never had a problem with 205M's with 30.1grs of BLC under a 39gr Sie...

[oldguy]

What I've done the the rifle so far:
When I got it home I took the rifle down to action and barrel only and chucked the action in a lathe, with the barrel in a steady rest. I noticed at the time that the bore was not concentric to the outer contour of the barrel. It wasn't off alot, maybe .005 - .006 TIR, so I didn't worry about it. I recut a flat recessed crown, and then carefully deburred the bore exit by hand with a 90 degree pointed steel rod and some lapping compound.


Always best to try test shooting a new rifle first before doing any work on it gives you a base as to accuracy. I have 2 Savage rifles in 223 they both will shoot under .500 if I do my part one prefers bullet seated near the lands the other not, one required a break in period of about 100 rounds the other out of the box, its a mixed bag you never know. One thing about Savage if it dont work they fix however not sure with work you did on barrel if that would be the case.

[Smokepole]

I've had good luck cleaning w hoppe's #9 solvent and hoppe's BR copper solvent. I use those in no particular order, then follow up w kroil and then some rem oil if it's going to sit for awhile. I favor nylon brushes because the bronze ones can give you a false reading if you're using a solvent that turns blue when in contact w copper.

[82boy]

Take a bronze brush and some good solvent and scrub the crap out of that thing. You'll be shocked at the crap that comes out!



Same experience as Trappst.
Both of my 204's prefer any bullet to be 0.050" off the lands....up to 0.070" for the best accuracy.

I agree 100% with both of these gentlemen. Hoppes, and even Hoppes benchrest is a poor bore solvent. (Everyone complains that it is not the same as the old Hoppes, and it is not) You will never get the carbon out with it using a patch or even a nylon brush. There are so many good solvents out there, just look. Carbon is hard stuff and it needs a good solvent and a good bronze brush to remove it. I like GM Top Engine Cleaner, the original formula they no longer make, but you may find some old stock at your GM dealer, the new stuff is suppose to work as good but the cost went way up on it. Shooters choice is good and if I remember right one of the listed ingredients is GM top engine cleaner. You need to let this stuff sit in the bore and loosen up the carbon.

My experience with the 204 is this, They do carbon up faster than other rounds. The worse problem I found was there are few good bronze brushes for a 20 cal, the only ones I found that lasted more than a few strokes was Tipton. The other thing I have found with Factory Savage barrel is they shoot better dirty. When you clean them the groups open up until you get around 10 to 20 rounds down the tube.

My 204 would shoot lights out with many .3 area 5 shout 100 yard groups. (with either 32 or 39 gr rounds) The way I had best success with it was I would hardly clean it, actually the only time I did clean it was when it started to key hole rounds. When it would key hole I would give it a thorough scrubbing with JB bore past. It would take about 10 rounds for the barrel to season in and then it started shooting lights out again. This barrel even had a bad factory defect, it had a scratch that ran down the entire length of the barrel in one of the groves. Never affected it one bit.

[steveinwv]

Do not use standard primers with the 204! You need a heavier (thicker) primer cup to prevent piercing the primers! BR4 and MAgnum primers have thicker cups.

Keith


..Never had a problem with 205M's with 30.1grs of BLC under a 39gr Sie...


205Ms are thicker than standard primers, but not as thick as magnums. I believe it goes std.=0.019", 205M only=0.0225", mag. or br.=0.025"........uh, I think?