shot shank/long shank tightening sequence and torgue savage 110

[ww1rdb]

ok have a question or two.. how do you tell the long shank from the short shank? am interested it getting new barrel nut but says you need to know if it is a standard or long shank..also it says the same for recoil lug.....also it seems to me that there was a sequence for tightening the action bolts and a torque for the action bolts..I know if done wrong at least on old guns with wood stock could result in splitting the wood...for the life of me I cant remember what it was...any help

[bootsmcguire]

First of all i am going to help you out and fix your vocabulary. It is Small (Standard) Shank, and Large Shank rather than Short and Long.
The Small Shank is on 95% of all Savages you are going to find. The Large shank was reserved for the Model 12 PTA actions and the WSM, RUM, SAUM, H&H, and similar magnums. Unless the barrel is a Varmint/Bull contour, if it is a large shank there will be a step or shoulder in the contour of the barrel just ahead of the nut. If its a heavy barrel then you should be able to measure the barrel with calipers directly infront of the nut and if its bigger than 1.055" then its gonna be a large shank.

Here is a link to the FAQ article explaining the differece. "Click" on the pics to get the best view of them.
http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?127-Savage-Barrel-Shank-Sizes

[ww1rdb]

ok thanks for the info..it does clear it up..since I have no short mags or target models now I know what I need..anyway thank you, now if someone could get back with info and order of tightening of action screws to hold rifle in stock my day will be complete..

[bootsmcguire]

If your factory stock has pillars in it (most of the factory ones do) then I can't say I have ever heard of anyone splitting a stock from tightening. For a stock without pillars you should just want to barely snug up the screws and then tighten each one equally. Without pillars though you wouldn't wnat to get it to tight as overtightening could split them just due to too much force. All the torque specs that I have heard are around 35 in/lbs. but don't quote me on that as I don't buy into all the torquing to increase accuracy. I have not done it and had some terriffic shooting rifles and seen no difference in performance when the bolts were removed and retightened.

Do a search here for the torque settings. I recall several threads that discussed that very thing.

[ww1rdb]

ok thanks but pillar bedding is a fairly recent thing...I have no Savage rifles that have pillar bedding...but will keep the number in mind...I did a seach and guess I am so new dont do it right as I said the only thing i have found was tension settings for an AXIS but will try again...

well went and did a search and there was nothing I could find for anything but the Accu Stocks.. nothing about the old school guns...oh well I will check some of the custom places and see if I can find the answer...thanks again

[drybean]

mybe this will help
small shanks 1.055 at the breech
large shanks 1.120 at the breech

drybean